sal64
Platinum Member
didnt reelize that if u pin it it will be strong
Folding ropes..
- Thread starter jd2305cd
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wv1720
Member
Until I see the finished product, I will have to agree with Kennyd. Depending on how they are pinned, that hinge will still be a weak point.
Picture it this way, hings will be facing to the back of the tractor. So if I flip the tractor to the right or left its going to be on steel.. If i flip it over backwards it will be on steel. If i some how manage to flip my tractor over the front wheels then the pin will take the brunt, but i am pretty sure if I manage to flip it over the front wheels then I just drove off a cliff.. 
While pretty is nice, functional is what i am going for. Those are some expensive barn hings, set me back 2.79 each.
While pretty is nice, functional is what i am going for. Those are some expensive barn hings, set me back 2.79 each.
Here is quick sketch of the john deer ones, or very similar..
Instead of rotating/pivot point on a bolt, I have used a hing. The bolt doesn't provide any strength, its all in the pin and steel... Hope this helps..
Quite frankly I like your design better (properly pinned of course!), less protrusions to smack body parts on!
Comparing the sketch and your build. I am no structural engineer so only take this with a grain of salt but, the hinge point on the sketch is a through bolt that goes through the sleeve and ROP's which adds additional strength and rigidity to the entire mechanism. Two points that holds the assembly together versus one point (Pin) per your build (your hinge does not count as you stated earlier). I would really consider matching that design as I feel it is superior to you build. When it comes to safety like this you don't want to skimp. Not criticizing your work here as it looks good but, I would definitely follow the engineered solution on this. I like the JD sketch design more than the factory set up on my MF.
LBrown59
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Oct 27, 2004
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- Tractor
- 2003 Kubota BX1500/2004 Kubota Bx23/2005 Kubota BX1500
I'd hate to hinge my life on the hinges.
Aguanga
Bronze Member
Picture it this way, hings will be facing to the back of the tractor. So if I flip the tractor to the right or left its going to be on steel.. If i flip it over backwards it will be on steel. If i some how manage to flip my tractor over the front wheels then the pin will take the brunt, but i am pretty sure if I manage to flip it over the front wheels then I just drove off a cliff..
While pretty is nice, functional is what i am going for. Those are some expensive barn hings, set me back 2.79 each.
I won't go down the safety road or endorse what you're doing, but I wanted to clarify what you meant by "on steel." I interpreted it that you figured your bracket tubing against the ROPS tubing would take the brunt of it (not the hinge). That would be mostly accurate for a side rollover although you would still experience some tension on one hinge and compression on the other. However, I think you're grossly underestimating the amount of tension that would be placed on your hinge if flipping over backwards. Let's say for arguements sake that if rolling over backwards the ground hit the top of the roll bar with a force 1,000 pounds (probably conservative). If your hinge is about 18" down from the top of the ROPS and your ROPS is 2"x3" (guessing from the picture), you'll have a tension force of about 7,667 pounds on that $2.79 hinge - 1,000 x 23 / 3. Feel free to swap your dimension and force values, but you may want to find the specification ratings on those hinges if functional is what your really after... especially when functional means life saving in this case (ok so I did go down the safety road after all)
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The hing wont be where 99% of the force is applied.. It will be on the pin, with the pin as the piviot point it will force the ROPs tube into the brace... You guys are stuck on those hinges, they are driving you all nuts..
Here is what i did tonight, drilled the two holes for the pins, I didn't get the holes lined up great so had to add some weld on one side of the hole and re-drill. I am happy the way the came out..
Then after I cut about an 1 1/2" off the pins (pins are 1" thick) and re-drilled the hole for the clasp. It was heat treated and a pain to drill..
Here is what i did tonight, drilled the two holes for the pins, I didn't get the holes lined up great so had to add some weld on one side of the hole and re-drill. I am happy the way the came out..
Then after I cut about an 1 1/2" off the pins (pins are 1" thick) and re-drilled the hole for the clasp. It was heat treated and a pain to drill..
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