Folding ropes..
- Thread starter jd2305cd
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LBrown59
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Oct 27, 2004
- Messages
- 16,904
- Tractor
- 2003 Kubota BX1500/2004 Kubota Bx23/2005 Kubota BX1500
Do you plan on telling any potental future buyer that the original ROPS was tampered with?
This is what scares me about such acts.
This is what scares me about such acts.
Conservation
Silver Member
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2008
- Messages
- 228
I actually am an engineer, and have build my share of race car roll cages. The way you spliced the top of the hoop is solid. The only thing that could have been better would have been to drill some half inch holes in the outside tube on both sides of the weld for rossettes. I don't think that would be an issue though.
I will not be critical of your work, but I will say that the design with the hinge has a strength issue. I know you are saying that the hinge carries no load, but if you apply a load from the rear of the tractor to the ROPS, the bar will want to rotate around the pin you have in there. The problem is, the resistance to that rotation is the hinge, which will have little resistance to failure. Same would go if force applied to the front of the ROPS. By no means am I saying that the work isn't nice or well thought out. If there was room for a second pin a decent distance away from the first, that would be a good solution. If you are OK with the compromise in strength, that is none of my business. There is nothing saying it will for sure fail, but it would for sure fail easier than the factory design, which looks like it has two of the large pins. For what it is worth.
I will not be critical of your work, but I will say that the design with the hinge has a strength issue. I know you are saying that the hinge carries no load, but if you apply a load from the rear of the tractor to the ROPS, the bar will want to rotate around the pin you have in there. The problem is, the resistance to that rotation is the hinge, which will have little resistance to failure. Same would go if force applied to the front of the ROPS. By no means am I saying that the work isn't nice or well thought out. If there was room for a second pin a decent distance away from the first, that would be a good solution. If you are OK with the compromise in strength, that is none of my business. There is nothing saying it will for sure fail, but it would for sure fail easier than the factory design, which looks like it has two of the large pins. For what it is worth.
I have had the tractor for 2 days, not planning on selling it quite yet.. 
I'll cross that bridge if i ever get there..
Brown this is really buggin you aint it.. You have posted the same thing about 6 times already, I get it you don't agree.. To each there own, but why keep posting the same opinion over and over.
I am confident in my welding and my fab, no worries at all.. Its just a steel roll bar, people build them every day. Most 4x4'ers modify and re-enforce thier bars first thing.
I'll cross that bridge if i ever get there.. Brown this is really buggin you aint it.. You have posted the same thing about 6 times already, I get it you don't agree.. To each there own, but why keep posting the same opinion over and over.
I am confident in my welding and my fab, no worries at all.. Its just a steel roll bar, people build them every day. Most 4x4'ers modify and re-enforce thier bars first thing.
Thanks Conservation, finally some constructive critism.. I like that kind.. I also have been thinking about adding a second lower pin... Not a monster like the top one, just a lil smaller one..
I actually haven't welded the top bar yet, so i will take your advice and drills some holes and weld it up, great advice thanks..
Question though, when the force is from the rear, it will rotate on the pin, but all that for will put into the 5" of over lap and back into to the lower bars..? EDIT - (Never Mind I see the light now...)
I actually haven't welded the top bar yet, so i will take your advice and drills some holes and weld it up, great advice thanks..
Question though, when the force is from the rear, it will rotate on the pin, but all that for will put into the 5" of over lap and back into to the lower bars..? EDIT - (Never Mind I see the light now...)
Update...
Took Conservations advice and added some rossettes to the top bar. It proved to be a bit of a pain to weld, glad i just tacked and tested fitted to double check.. Cuase just with a lil tack heat it moved.. At any rate after the thrid attemp i was able to get it done..
I put eight 5/8" holes, way over kill but only took a second. (stepped bit rips through the metal)
All welded up and grounded smooth again.. Getting close...
Took Conservations advice and added some rossettes to the top bar. It proved to be a bit of a pain to weld, glad i just tacked and tested fitted to double check.. Cuase just with a lil tack heat it moved.. At any rate after the thrid attemp i was able to get it done..
I put eight 5/8" holes, way over kill but only took a second. (stepped bit rips through the metal)
All welded up and grounded smooth again.. Getting close...
Sounds like you got it, but in the future you can wrap a come-a-long around the legs to "tighten" the hoop up a bit. If its too tight you can place the middle of the bend down on a block of wood and smack the inside of the leg with a dead blow hammer to relax the bend a bit.
I used this method quight often on tight race cars.
I used this method quight often on tight race cars.
I wasn't going to reads this thread
But finally had to see how to fold "Ropes"
LOL
As soon as i posted, I realized what I did, but went into Edit and wouldn't let me change it... Oh well..
dangerdoc
Gold Member
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2007
- Messages
- 354
Can you do the figures for smoking too
Yes I can, do you really want me to?
BTW, I had to fudge the numbers. The real way to measure risk driving is deaths/miles. The real way to measure risk operating a tractor is deaths/hours. I had to cheat by substituting deaths/vehicle which is not a good way to estimate risk. Please don't hold it against me.
Considering all causes of death, mortality rate is 100%.
mwb
Platinum Member
jd2305cd, I like your work. I agree that modifying the door height would have been a much better (more expensive) solution but whatever floats your tractor.
I also modified my ROPS for one simple reason; with the way it was I didn't use it (read 斗eave it up?. Once I folded it for the garage I was not about to stop and put it up again. The fact that you are making it work for you is a **** of a lot more responsible than leaving it folded or removing it.
As far as "tampering with a safety device" I don't see how anyone can be critical of this project and then go and add a light fixture in their shop, change brake pads, build their own trailer, or clean their chimney. Many people are capable of doing this kind of mod competently; criticism of the design is beneficial to us all (the whole point in having a forum) while discouraging words and scare tactics don't help anyone.
Congratulations on a good project. Just remember to fold that ROPS back up after leaving your garage!
When you get tired of doing that then you can raise the door height.
Sincerely,
Mike
.I also modified my ROPS for one simple reason; with the way it was I didn't use it (read 斗eave it up?. Once I folded it for the garage I was not about to stop and put it up again. The fact that you are making it work for you is a **** of a lot more responsible than leaving it folded or removing it.
As far as "tampering with a safety device" I don't see how anyone can be critical of this project and then go and add a light fixture in their shop, change brake pads, build their own trailer, or clean their chimney. Many people are capable of doing this kind of mod competently; criticism of the design is beneficial to us all (the whole point in having a forum) while discouraging words and scare tactics don't help anyone.
Congratulations on a good project. Just remember to fold that ROPS back up after leaving your garage!
When you get tired of doing that then you can raise the door height.
Sincerely,
Mike
Did a lil more tonight, drilled the holes for the pins, filed them smooth and tested fit it. Also added the cut off part of the tubing back onto the bottom hing for a more complete look.
Did some more grinding and hope to drill and tap the bottom holes tomorrow. Then I can test fit, sand and paint... Home stretch..
Did some more grinding and hope to drill and tap the bottom holes tomorrow. Then I can test fit, sand and paint... Home stretch..
sal64
Platinum Member
nice job looks very strong.
One question. When you cut the ROPS for the hinge point did you cut it high enough to clear the top link of your 3-point, If you have an implement on and you raise it with the ROPS down it will snap those hinges right off. Mine hinges too low and does contact the top link, bad mfg. design. The 1200lbs 3-point lift force tweaked my hing point which make it harder to get the pins in.
