Ford 1210 tear down and repair

[Asymair95]

Thank you, I really enjoyed the rebuild. It would be nice to have a larger tractor, like maybe a Ford 2000 or something. But, I do like the compactness of this tractor for working in the woods. I plan on hauling out firewood with it this Winter. When I get my sap house up and running, I will be using it to shuttle sap down to the boiler to make syrup. It does ok with the box blade and rake, but I do have to be careful. A bit more traction would be great, but for the price I paid for this thing I can't complain. It is also easier to store this in my shop as it takes up less room.

 

[Asymair95]

So after using this tractor for a few months I've come to the realization I need a bigger tractor with a bucket. I like this tractor, starts/runs great, drives nice...but it is just too small for the ground engaging type work I need it to do.

Now my dilemma is which tractor to look for. I'm thinking something in the 25-30 hp range 2000-4000 lb range with a loader would be adequate. Been keeping an eye on Craigslist and tractorhouse for ideas and something to buy.

I will be selling the 1210 to avoid the glare of the Mrs. Kind of bummed because of all the work I put into it. On the bright side, I'll be able to start a new thread on here restoring whatever new tractor I get...lol.

Any ideas gents on what tractor I should be looking for? I'm not brand loyal, just looking for something reliable that I can still buy parts for. I have a John Deere and Kubota dealer close by. I prefer the vintage iron, and as you can see, I'm not afraid to swing a wrench. Thanks for the help everyone.

 

[skills4lou]

I'd be inclined to go with whichever dealer you like. Old iron is gonna need parts, and a good parts department is worth a lot.

That being said, big green tends to have a better selection of parts for their old stuff.

 

[Asymair95]

Lou, that was my feeling too. Was looking for a 50 series tractor, like maybe a 750 or 850 which are made by Yanmar. If I wanted to get real old school maybe a 1020 or 301 industrial.

 

[Asymair95]

Found a nice 1510 with loader, bush hog, finish mower, with 900 hrs for 6k.

 

[skills4lou]

I don't know what changed between the 1510 and 1520, but I sure like my 1520! It's a little short on traction, but then again I don't have any added ballast yet. That 1510 may be a heck of a deal, especially if the implements are in good shape.

 

[Asymair95]

Yes, going to look at it tomorrow morning and leave a deposit if I like it. My 1210 is 2wd, so I'm constantly fighting for traction. I'm sure a 1510 with 4wd will be leaps and bounds better. It weighs about a thousand pounds more, so I can only imagine how much better it is going to be. This 1510 has been garage kept its whole life and only used for bush hogging and finish mower duty. Very little ground engaging work from what I was told. The clutch hasn't been replaced yet, which is a concern with over 900 hours on the clock.

 

[Btown]

My Ford 1700 was light, had hard time moving snow. My Ford 1920 is a beast but it also has loaded tires. I think this helps a lot.

 

[fried1765]

Yes, going to look at it tomorrow morning and leave a deposit if I like it. My 1210 is 2wd, so I'm constantly fighting for traction. I'm sure a 1510 with 4wd will be leaps and bounds better. It weighs about a thousand pounds more, so I can only imagine how much better it is going to be. This 1510 has been garage kept its whole life and only used for bush hogging and finish mower duty. Very little ground engaging work from what I was told. The clutch hasn't been replaced yet, which is a concern with over 900 hours on the clock.

Depending on how the loader was used, the clutch could go to twice the 900 hours currently on the clock.
I would not worry too much about the clutch.
I bought a 1920 with 1056 hours, and replaced the clutch, just because I had the tractor torn down for complete repainting.
The original clutch was in near perfect condition, but I put the new aftermarket clutch (reliabletractorparts.com) in anyway.
Big mistake!
The aftermarket clutch failed after 2 hours of use (clutch finger bolt broke)
Then (because I had taken the tractor to Canada) I put the original clutch back in, using the new clutch discs removed from the aftermarket clutch (thus - I did two tractor splits).
The split of these Fords is very basic. 4 hours to split, and 4 hours to reassemble.
You can do it on a concrete slab, with 2 jack stands, and a roll under jack.
If you need a clutch, or other driveline operating parts,.... do not buy aftermarket!
Buy your driveline parts ONLY from Messick's, or another reputable OEM source.
Messick's is THE BEST !!!!

 

[Asymair95]

Thank you Fried, I'm completely picking up what your putting down. I learned that lesson the hard way too when replacing the water pump on my 1210.

Big announcement! I am the proud new owner of a Ford 1510 with an Allied 180 loader. The clock said 932, and judging by the condition of the tractor I would say that is correct. The steering was very tight, no noticeable wear in the ball joints. Not a spec of rust anywhere on the tractor. The loader bucket was pretty ratty looking and had lots of rust. The loader in general looked its age. I'm thinking it was on another tractor and swapped over latter in this tractors life.

There were the usual drips and seeps here and there, but nothing wet. It is a much bigger/heavier tractor than my 1210. It should have no problem pulling my 4' box blade and 5' rake. It comes with a 60" finishing mower, and 4' bush hog. The finishing mower I will sell, or maybe include it in the sale with my 1210.

Will post some pics once I get the tractor home. Over the Winter I will start a new thread with the rebuild of this new to me Ford.