Ford 1920 clutch Help needed

   / Ford 1920 clutch Help needed #31  
MIkeWard said:
Found a couple of problems.
The outer throttle cable is very loose and not really attached underneath the floor. It is connected to gas petal and the pump.
You can see how loose it is at the pump. Do i just need to stretch it out and clamp it in several places?

The other thing I found was a broken wire on parking brake sensor. Should I try to repair it by soldering connection?
A;so looks like it is missing a nut to attach it to the parking brake bracket.

So far so good
Mike


Mike,

So far so good. now that you have your MASH unit ready it's time to operate. On the throttle cable, a bit if play is okay , look on the other end of cable may be able to adjust the tension some. On the wire, if you have enough wire as it seems you have I just take the right crimped connector that I can find for the switch and re-crimp two brand new connector. there is nothing wrong with the soldering the wire. If I o that route, I'll put a piece of heat shrink tue in there before I solder, once the soldering is done pull the heat shrink over the soldered area heat shrink it to make it moisture proof.

Keep it coming,
JC,


P.s Did not get the thing about loose pump:(
 
   / Ford 1920 clutch Help needed
  • Thread Starter
#32  
JC-jetro said:
Mike,

So far so good. now that you have your MASH unit ready it's time to operate. On the throttle cable, a bit if play is okay , look on the other end of cable may be able to adjust the tension some. On the wire, if you have enough wire as it seems you have I just take the right crimped connector that I can find for the switch and re-crimp two brand new connector. there is nothing wrong with the soldering the wire. If I o that route, I'll put a piece of heat shrink tue in there before I solder, once the soldering is done pull the heat shrink over the soldered area heat shrink it to make it moisture proof.

Keep it coming,
JC,

P.s Did not get the thing about loose pump:(


Thanks for the reply
I do not think I would have attempted this if not for the info and support on this forum.
I need to pick up some paint while I'm at it.

I was referring to the play at the end of the throttle cable .
The outer one is completely flopping around and not clamped down in any way.
I will look for brackets to route it through. A couple of zip ties should also help tighten it up.

Mike
 

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   / Ford 1920 clutch Help needed #33  
Thanks for the updates and the pictures.I look forward to more of the pics. i think it would be great to have several in an order to see what your dealing with as you move forward. It sure beats the manual pictures.
Thanks again.
Al
 
   / Ford 1920 clutch Help needed
  • Thread Starter
#34  
Got a few more things done today. I think I mentioned that I'm in no big rush to get done.
Drained the transmission. Boy the color that comes out the bottom is completely different than on the dipstick!!

I took a pic of a paper towel dipped in the stuff. How does it look what do you think?
 

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   / Ford 1920 clutch Help needed
  • Thread Starter
#35  
Disconnected all the power steering tubes after draining the fluid. I left the four hoses in their common brackets and removed the two brackets from the engine

I used a 1 gallon ziplock bag fastened around hose to drain reservoir. Seemed to work pretty well and did not leak. I placed it in a bucket just in case. I used tin foil to cover all open fittings.

Drained the fuel tank used a sink sprayer with hose to do this. I cut off the sprayer and pressed the metal sink fitting into the hose I removed from gas filter (It fit perfectly). Sprayer end of hose went into fuel container. Worked great!

Daughter brought over grandson (1 yr old) more work tomorrow.

Mike
 

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   / Ford 1920 clutch Help needed #36  
MIkeWard said:
Got a few more things done today. I think I mentioned that I'm in no big rush to get done.
Drained the transmission. Boy the color that comes out the bottom is completely different than on the dipstick!!

I took a pic of a paper towel dipped in the stuff. How does it look what do you think?


I had the same experience as well Mike. You're going to remove suction and discharge piping off of the hyd pump to split the tractor. What I have done on mine I removed the inlet screen in the differential housing (need suction pump removal). All return hyd fluid come back to the differential and loose it's velocity quickly, that causes sediment junk of all sort to settle down. I used a combination of shop vac and and a collection can to suck up all the stuff from the bottom of differential housing. I did not want to get the oil in to my shop vac. anyhow, I was able to suck up close to two quart of snot out of the housing, it had the consistency of loose cheese curd. it probably not a bad thing to clean the inside. I used a 3 feet piece ofg garden hose as my suction tube and shoved it in the housing sucking up the stuff in to my collection jar.

JC,
 
   / Ford 1920 clutch Help needed
  • Thread Starter
#37  
JC-jetro said:
I had the same experience as well Mike. You're going to remove suction and discharge piping off of the hyd pump to split the tractor. What I have done on mine I removed the inlet screen in the differential housing (need suction pump removal). All return hyd fluid come back to the differential and loose it's velocity quickly, that causes sediment junk of all sort to settle down. I used a combination of shop vac and and a collection can to suck up all the stuff from the bottom of differential housing. I did not want to get the oil in to my shop vac. anyhow, I was able to suck up close to two quart of snot out of the housing, it had the consistency of loose cheese curd. it probably not a bad thing to clean the inside. I used a 3 feet piece ofg garden hose as my suction tube and shoved it in the housing sucking up the stuff in to my collection jar.

JC,

OK I'm up to removing the suction and discharge piping off of the hyd pump. When I read your post I did a double take and went back and reread the repair manual. It did not mention taking them off for the 1920. Then I read the section for the 2120 and sure enough remove em.

The manual says to swing the inlet tube out of the way.
With the loader and BH brackets on this is impossible. So I guess its remove the tubes completely or take the brackets and
loader hydraulic controls off first.

At this point I'm worried about damaging O rings on the suction and discharge piping off of the hyd pump You can see this in the pic.

Mike
 

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   / Ford 1920 clutch Help needed
  • Thread Starter
#38  
JC I removed the suction and discharge piping and got a good look inside and it looked pretty clean.

I had quite an oily adventure today. I had already drained the tranny (almost 4.5 gal). When I went to remove the suction and discharge piping I knew there would still be some more fluid to drain ( little I thought) Note for the future DO NOT use an almost full container to catch what you think will be coming out. Another gallon and a half came out overflowing the container. Boy was I hopping trying to get another container quick and sand to throw on the oil as it spread all over and past the plastic I put down.

Finally took off the 4wd shaft Next will be the split and finally the clutch.

Mike
 
   / Ford 1920 clutch Help needed #39  
MIkeWard said:
JC I removed the suction and discharge piping and got a good look inside and it looked pretty clean.

I had quite an oily adventure today. I had already drained the tranny (almost 4.5 gal). When I went to remove the suction and discharge piping I knew there would still be some more fluid to drain ( little I thought) Note for the future DO NOT use an almost full container to catch what you think will be coming out. Another gallon and a half came out overflowing the container. Boy was I hopping trying to get another container quick and sand to throw on the oil as it spread all over and past the plastic I put down.

Finally took off the 4wd shaft Next will be the split and finally the clutch.





Mike


Hey Mike,

Good job so far, if nothing else we're a persistent bunch. About the o-rings, I recommend getting a metric o-ring package from HF. It is about $7 to $10 and has many of the sizes are used in your tractor. I'm sure you know if you go to NH website, they have all the parts listed with the SBA # (NH numbering system). On most o-rings they also have the metric designation for it. I'm glad you're taking your sweet time. All day today I was trying to get timing belt /water pump on my accord replaced, Wow, what a holy pain that is!!, any how 3/4 done and the rest tomorrow. I tell you, I rather work on my 1700 any day, with the Honda you need to be dang Houdini himself:(

Good luck with the rest of the job,
JC,

Ps.By the way I drained all the fluid from the radiator on Honda till it drained no more. Well, as soon as I loosened the water pump, there came more than half of gallon of fluid all over the place. I pulled a mini environmental spill as well which quickly I mitigated it while using a few choice words.:D
 
   / Ford 1920 clutch Help needed
  • Thread Starter
#40  
Today's the day. Chocked and blocked the front.
supported and lifted the rear (a bit).
Got a come-a-long attached to my truck and slowly split the tractor.
WOW did it come apart easily.
Just had to break some rust holding it together.
 

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