Ford 1920 Questions

[jrdepew]

Hello again,

I am going to look at a ford 1920 on Sunday. It is listed at 11,500 OBO with a loader, and has 1200 hours. The owner claims it is extra nice with good tires, so I am hoping it is in really good shape for 1200 hours. I have read of these same tractors with over 4k hours, so there is still a ton of life left in it.

Anyone know if I can replace the ROPS with a folding one? I am not sure how tall this tractor is to the top of the ROPS but I am guessing I will need a folding one to get it in my garage. Anyone modify a ROPS to make a folding one? (Flame suit on, I know this can be a can of worms)?

Anything I should look for, being that this would be my first tractor?

Does anyone make a set of pallet forks that would be easy to put on to replace the bucket? I will be moving brush piles and pallets so this is important.

Any advice is appreciated!

Thanks,
Joe

 

[amaxwell]

Hello again,

I am going to look at a ford 1920 on Sunday. It is listed at 11,500 OBO with a loader, and has 1200 hours. The owner claims it is extra nice with good tires, so I am hoping it is in really good shape for 1200 hours. I have read of these same tractors with over 4k hours, so there is still a ton of life left in it.

Anyone know if I can replace the ROPS with a folding one? I am not sure how tall this tractor is to the top of the ROPS but I am guessing I will need a folding one to get it in my garage. Anyone modify a ROPS to make a folding one? (Flame suit on, I know this can be a can of worms)?

Anything I should look for, being that this would be my first tractor?

Does anyone make a set of pallet forks that would be easy to put on to replace the bucket? I will be moving brush piles and pallets so this is important.

Any advice is appreciated!

Thanks,
Joe

Have you checked tractorhouse for prices or for other models that would have the folding ROPS and a quick-attach bucket. My feeling is that it will be less expensive to get a model that has these features than to modify this model.

 

[GManBart]

One big thing to check is whether the PTO is the optional live version. If not, mowing, and brush hogging will be more of a pain....and even simple stuff like moving snow with a rear blade. Pull the snow, stop. Put in neutral, release the clutch, raise the 3pt. Push in clutch, put back in gear, move, drop blade, and repeat....etc.

For just a bit more, you can buy a new tractor with the same amount of power, quick attach bucket, and folding ROPS.

 

[the old grind]

I'm a big fan of the mid to large '20-series' Ford/NH CUTs, and just traded in my 1520 for a T1520 which is also much like the recent and similar TC30 in power, controls, FEL, etc. Folks don't part with xx20s easily, and I never did find my 'right deal' & 'right features' combo, and choice of tires on a 1920. btw: after 12 yrs my little 23hp ran like the day I bought it at trade-in time. The proof meter was stuck at 27xx hrs from day one and I'd put another several hun on it without incident or service other than bolt tightening (checking), grease, fuel and filters. I had to throw in a JD 1520 (~50hp) to get the new price down to what you're looking at.

Details I'd look for:
Tires- As much as condition I'd want to be sure they were the right type for your intended use. (most likely R1 'ags')

Transmission- You'd have the basic '4x12' the 12x12 'synchro-shuttle' or the 'sydro-shuttle' to look for. Much as the shuttles offer similar convenience with a FEL the 4x12 has the least to go wrong and perhaps the least to attend to service & maintenance-wise.

Loader- 7308 is great and would do you best vs 7108 or anything else. (slam-dunk)

ROPS- I doubt there's an easy way to equip or modify a folding ROPS to any '20'. I got away with fixed by having an 8' garage door (winter plowing time) and parking in a barn with 13' 9" door clearance. See HFT for a (silver) tarp and use milk/juice bottle weights to hold it snug when it sits outdoors. An extra rope over that (secured vs weighted) can help keep it generally in place on the windiest days. (BTDT, and if it doesn't rain that often you'd still not want to park under trees, even with covers)

I finally chose the (new) T1520 for the 30-some HP, familiar controls, tire options (R4s), QA bucket, and HST features. There's just no way a 1920 was going to have the goodies I now demand. A TC30 could have done much of that, but folks don't part with them easily either, and they all (Shibaura-sourced) are rugged machines.

:2cents: Philosophical insight: As with boats, your first will teach you what you'd want a 'next one' to be. Amaxwell's & bart's wise comments ring musically to me :thumbsup:, as this could be the machine I might someday be buried with. ('Sonny' can more easily sell-off the Harleys when I'm gone) If you only ever have one tractor, IMO a 1920 will have made you happy once you get over the parking & tire things.

If you jump, be sure to let us know what you went with and how you like it. If you hesitate, compare to TC30 for similar ability (maybe no FROPS) and see if you can find as good a deal, esp if HST which makes PTO use simpler/easier too. (JMHO, there)

 

[jrdepew]

One big thing to check is whether the PTO is the optional live version. If not, mowing, and brush hogging will be more of a pain....and even simple stuff like moving snow with a rear blade. Pull the snow, stop. Put in neutral, release the clutch, raise the 3pt. Push in clutch, put back in gear, move, drop blade, and repeat....etc.

For just a bit more, you can buy a new tractor with the same amount of power, quick attach bucket, and folding ROPS.

I can't even seem to get close when looking at new stuff. A Kioti CK20S HST would be nice, but are much smaller are 12,999 cash price. The kioti CK230 is going for around 17k here, and these are before tax prices. I have yet to look into LS as there doesn't seem to be a close dealer that stocks more than 1-2 tractors. Same for Mahindra. Kubota and JD have close dealers but they are 19k+ for even looking close to a tractor this size.

The tractor has a canopy which I would like to keep (I burn easily :laughing, and also has 1 rear remote. However it doesn't have a Q/A loader. It does have the live pto (two stage clutch).

Keem em coming,
Joe

 

[jrdepew]

I'm a big fan of the mid to large '20-series' Ford/NH CUTs, and just traded in my 1520 for a T1520 which is also much like the recent and similar TC30 in power, controls, FEL, etc. Folks don't part with xx20s easily, and I never did find my 'right deal' & 'right features' combo, and choice of tires on a 1920. btw: after 12 yrs my little 23hp ran like the day I bought it at trade-in time. The proof meter was stuck at 27xx hrs from day one and I'd put another several hun on it without incident or service other than bolt tightening (checking), grease, fuel and filters. I had to throw in a JD 1520 (~50hp) to get the new price down to what you're looking at.

Details I'd look for:
Tires- As much as condition I'd want to be sure they were the right type for your intended use. (most likely R1 'ags')

Transmission- You'd have the basic '4x12' the 12x12 'synchro-shuttle' or the 'sydro-shuttle' to look for. Much as the shuttles offer similar convenience with a FEL the 4x12 has the least to go wrong and perhaps the least to attend to service & maintenance-wise.

Loader- 7308 is great and would do you best vs 7108 or anything else. (slam-dunk)

ROPS- I doubt there's an easy way to equip or modify a folding ROPS to any '20'. I got away with fixed by having an 8' garage door (winter plowing time) and parking in a barn with 13' 9" door clearance. See HFT for a (silver) tarp and use milk/juice bottle weights to hold it snug when it sits outdoors. An extra rope over that (secured vs weighted) can help keep it generally in place on the windiest days. (BTDT, and if it doesn't rain that often you'd still not want to park under trees, even with covers)

I finally chose the (new) T1520 for the 30-some HP, familiar controls, tire options (R4s), QA bucket, and HST features. There's just no way a 1920 was going to have the goodies I now demand. A TC30 could have done much of that, but folks don't part with them easily either, and they all (Shibaura-sourced) are rugged machines.

:2cents: Philosophical insight: As with boats, your first will teach you what you'd want a 'next one' to be. Amaxwell's & bart's wise comments ring musically to me :thumbsup:, as this could be the machine I might someday be buried with. ('Sonny' can more easily sell-off the Harleys when I'm gone) If you only ever have one tractor, IMO a 1920 will have made you happy once you get over the parking & tire things.

If you jump, be sure to let us know what you went with and how you like it. If you hesitate, compare to TC30 for similar ability (maybe no FROPS) and see if you can find as good a deal, esp if HST which makes PTO use simpler/easier too. (JMHO, there)

Thanks for the info. The 1920 does have the 7108 loader (I can't seem to find specs on this loader easily). How does it compare to the 7308?

It is a shuttle shift 12x12.

As far as tires go, I have some decent hills on the property. The tractor current has R1's. I honestly haven't driven enough tractors to know if I want R1, R4, or turf tires for my land. It can get a bit soggy in some areas when it rains as I have clay not too far down.

Thanks for the information!
Joe

 

[jmc]

1920's are nice tractors and I may still have had mine if it weren't for the basic level transmission and no skid steer QA on the loader. Let me know if you get it because I still have some stuff you might be able to use, like an aftermarket ITS manual for the XX20 series, a lever I made to control the 3PH while hooking up attachments when behind the tractor, and some leftover parts.

 

[the old grind]

Joe, can't really say anything bad about the 7108. AFAIK the loaders are pretty much interchangeable in capacity and my '73' was put on when my 'baby' came out of freeway mowing service with MI DOT. Lacking fax I'll try to PM you some info from the manual I have for the '71'. (as in today) QA may mean a bit less without remote hydraulics for the fancier tools.

R1s should have you moving around pretty well on soggy hillsides and in 2wd much of the time elsewhere to spare strain on the drivetrain. They might wear down a bit faster on pavement over time, but lawn damage is the worst you'd get from R1s. btw: I dropped both the 1520's fronts (turfs) and landed on the fram when back-filling a neighbor's septic field. Pushed my way out backwards by digging in & curling the bucket.

I&T's "FO-46" shop service manual covers the series well and lets you compare your model's specs to the others. (see 'jmc' above) You'll see that some important mechanical stuff underneath is shared with the beefy 2120. :thumbsup: 'Range' selection isn't synchro but your 4 forward speeds are so you might be shifting on the fly without dub'l-clutching.

I imagine you'd have the dual-plate clutch. (shuttle-equipped is not 'bare-bones') If so, PTO engagement can be checked/adjusted via an oval-shaped access port on the side. Sounds like you're as impressed with the tractor (& the deal) as I am. btw: My new toy is close in 'rated' hp but not much else for almost $6k more. :mur: jon

 

[jmc]

Joe, Jon,

Just to clarify, mine wasn't the shuttleshift so I had to almost stop and let the engine RPM drop to 1000 or so before downshifting, especially into first or into reverse.

And, the manual IS I&T # FO-46 as Jon suspected.

Here's a link to the TBN thread on that remote 3PH lever:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/34561-3ph-control-behind-tractor.html

John

 

[Soundguy]

optional live pto?

it hought they were all live ont hat model.

my 12x4 was dual clutcha nd live. and that's the basic tranny.

I loved my 1920... 4x4 and all.

 

[Notforhire]

On my list of the stupid things I have done, selling my 1920 is right up there.

Bill

 

[Soundguy]

almost on mine too.

i needed the trade ion ca$h at the time though.. to get my 7610s.. or i'd still have her...

 

[moojamboo]

I have a 1710 without foldable rops and it just barely would not fit through my garage door. I took off the top brace, cut about 3 inches from each side and but the top brace back on. As I am 5 foot 8ish this was still enough protection for my height. Tie a rope from top of rops to hood and see if you have clearance?

Not ideal but I get a protected investment and 95+ percent of safety.

 

[the old grind]

I don't know which was more confusing, correcting brightness or puttin' these in a PM. No specs for 1920 w/4wd. (??) This is from NH's 7108 manual (without permission)

 

[jrdepew]

Thanks The Old Grind! That is good information.

I went and looked at/drove the tractor this morning. It started right up easily after letting the glow plugs heat up for a few seconds. Ran like a top and idled down nicely. I drove it around, changing ranges and gears, forward and reverse. The clutch took a little getting used to but I was going pretty smooth after a few tries. The tractor overall is in nice shape, but there is some surface rust on most surfaces of the loader arms. The tires have some good life left and will last many years in my use I am sure.

The only issue I found was the 2wd/4wd lever...If you pulled the lever up to engage it engages, but then will fall back down on its own. The owner has a bungee cord to hold it up when he uses it currently, but I think this is something I would like to fix. Any information in the manual about an adjustment here? Both 2wd and 4wd work, but the linkage seems to be off for some reason.

The owner is the original owner, and is selling because he found a good deal on a 2120 and already has a bunch of tractors.

Thanks,
Joe

 

[jrdepew]

So there are three things on my mind about this tractor right now...The 4wd lever and what it would take to fix, the R1 tires on my lawn, and what kind of offer I would make, as the owner says there is a standing offer but it is lower than he wants to take...but he said the price is definitely negotiable.

I am very handy when it comes to turning wrenches and all that as I grew up working on cars and nobody touches any of my cars/mowers/etc except me, but I am new to tractors and don't know how big of an issue the 4wd lever really is...

Joe

 

[Soundguy]

gosh.. it's been over a decade since i had my 1920. I can't even remember how the 4wd engaged.. Iknow it was positive engagement though..

i no longer have my manua;s for it.. they went when i traded it. check for a detent on the shaft in the parts manual.

user: rickb will likely know right off the bat.

 

[the old grind]

Not to be funny, but R1s would be hard on the lawn you mow with the tractor. It's tight turns that gouge, & that's most of it. IMO this guy's a tad big for that, but we haven't seen your place either.

Neither the I&T manual or my dodging hailstones out to the barn to crawl under new iron gives me much insight to how the 4wd selector connects to the engagement fork inside. It may be as simple as a detent failure. Never saw the likes, & 'low-ball' guy may know something about it (or tendency) that we don't yet. He also might offer <$1K so you'd have to feel-out the seller/situation about a point in-between.

btw: I&T book says 'live' PTO is std on 12x12 shuttle-equipped 1720 & 1920. At least that's reassuring.

 

[jrdepew]

I did plan on borrowing a neighbors and eventually buying a mower for the back to make a couple passes in the straighter section of the yard, as well as do my small "field" section (<1 acre) occasionally. That amount of mowing takes a very long time on an LT180....But for right now it's not that big of a deal. So...maybe this tractor is a bit big, but I do like the lift capacity. A lot of guys on here are always saying how there isn't such a thing as "too big" too though :drink:

Soundguy....I will send rickb a pm and ask him, thanks for the information.

 

[RickB]

So as to share with all, here's the dope on the 4WD engagement.

The housing bolted to the rear axle center section where the 4WD shift shaft enters the housing also contains the spring, ball & detent. Somewhere along the line the lever was forced to overtravel and the detent ball & spring were allowed to drop into the housing. now there is nothing to hold the 4WD shift collar in place, and gravity pulls the rod & handle down. The fix should be easy; remove the cover and replace the damaged parts (after draining at least a couple gallons of hydraulic oil). The spring & ball are likely sitting at the bottom of the rear end housing, or at the bottom of the 4WD drop box. There is a plate that was designed after the fact to bolt on with the shift cover on the outside to limit lever travel, one should bepart of the repair parts needed list. I wouldn't expect major disassembly or or expense to accomplish the repair, but then again I can't see it from here.