Ford 3000 Cylinder Sleeves?

[Griffin]

OK. I've done my research and it's time to get started. The first thing I want to do is check the valve lash. The guy who is going to do the engine machine work suggested, as have several on these pages, that I check the valve lash before yanking the engine. I would also like to pull the injectors to have them tested. If the valve adjustment does the trick, great. If not, I will not have wasted any money, only a little time. If the injectors are worn or dirty, this would have had to be corrected anyway.

The injector removal seams to be pretty straight forward. I coould use input on how to set the valve lash. The manual tells me that the Intake should be .0014 -.0016. The Exhaust should be set at .0017 - .0019. It also says that the engine should be running. How do you know what the gap is if the valve is not in place more than a split second. Can this be checked with the engine not running?

Thanks.

 

[Woodbeef]

They are not actually clones, they are manufactured using all of the Ford castings acquired by Escorts when NH sold the Ford facility to Escorts. Escorts had built the Ford tractor under contract to Ford for the Indian and Asian markets.

I think if you look into it a bit deeper,you'll find that Farmtrac built the Fords under license,and Escorts bought Farmtrac after Fiat cut their contract. The Escorts line of tractors were quite different from the Farmtrac line.

 

[dgl24087]

I think if you look into it a bit deeper,you'll find that Farmtrac built the Fords under license,and Escorts bought Farmtrac after Fiat cut their contract. The Escorts line of tractors were quite different from the Farmtrac line.

Isn't that what I said?

 

[whitetiger]

OK. I've done my research and it's time to get started. The first thing I want to do is check the valve lash. The guy who is going to do the engine machine work suggested, as have several on these pages, that I check the valve lash before yanking the engine. I would also like to pull the injectors to have them tested. If the valve adjustment does the trick, great. If not, I will not have wasted any money, only a little time. If the injectors are worn or dirty, this would have had to be corrected anyway.

The injector removal seams to be pretty straight forward. I coould use input on how to set the valve lash. The manual tells me that the Intake should be .0014 -.0016. The Exhaust should be set at .0017 - .0019. It also says that the engine should be running. How do you know what the gap is if the valve is not in place more than a split second. Can this be checked with the engine not running?

Thanks.

Engine should not be running and should be stone cold when adjusting valve lash or tourqing head bolts.

 

[Griffin]

I set the lash yesterday. One exhaust valve was set at .0030 when it should have been at .0017. Several other valves had no clearance at all. I am taking the injectors and pump off today to have them checked tomorrow. I don't have much confidence that this is going to fix the starting and smoking problem, but it can't hurt.

 

[Griffin]

I took the injectors and pump off today. Q: dooes one need to keep track of which injector came from which cylinder? The tip of the injectors were carbon fouled. Is this typical? I'll take everything into the shop Monday for inspection. Can anyone tell me how to check the compression on a diesel. I have a pressure guage that I use on my cars and boat, but it maxes at 300 psi while the tractor calls for 420-510 psi. Also, my guage screws in and the injector port has no threads.

Thanks.

 

[Griffin]

I figured out how to shrink my images so they would upload.

 

[montanaman]

There is a big difference in discovering 'extra' damage that needs to be corrected, and quoting a rebuild with no boring/sleaving on a block that does not come from the factory sleaved. I.E. the block comes and runs in the 'parent' bore from the factory, and there is a sleave kit sold that you bore it for to bring it back in oem. I.E... a rebuild that has loose cyl tolerances should include boring and sleaving.. that # should at least be mentioned on the quote..if it isn't.. then the jobber or machinist didn't bother to take 10 seconds and look up that engine in the aprts manual like I just did... There is no magic involved in this kind of work.. it's all on paper, not counting hidden damage...

Soundguy

I worked at a machine shop for a while and there was no such thing as a quote without first tearing the engine down. Keeps everyone happy!!

You can ball park but to give a quote in writing is a sure fire way to start a bad relationship. Just too many simple jobs end up with cracks found after cleaning and magniflux inspection.

I will say this though, the shop owner bought a lot of core engines from scrap dealers and if a head was found bad and he had a core, the cost was really cheap or free for the good casting as long as it was a common part.

Ken

 

[montanaman]

Griffin,

Around these parts, to "punch" an engine and sleeve is around $150 to 200 per hole. Once someone said $100-150, but it was their own shop, no employee to pay.

I've seen that description also on the parts list I have for my 3000. Liners and sleeves are sold to "renew". A machien shop is still needed. They're not the type where the entire "hole" is replaced. I'm use to the liners that are exposed to the coolent jacket. Quite easy to confuse.....

The shop that worked on my SOS, they're fulley equipped to do engines. They have the bore machine, a crank machine, valve, etc. They quoted $3500 to do the rebuild. The factory recon engine (bigger too) was right about 5K (not counting the core charge). But ya know the "mess" I had w/ that harvester.....

One kinda gets use to the hight after being up there a few times. Ya just know where to put your feet and not think about the landing if things go bad.....


Oh, what ever you decide, take some project pics! I think the folks around here LOVE project pics!

I have a shop near me that took a long time to find. The guy is getting up there in his years and was the only shop I could find that knew something about the Ford 8N rods, had the fixture to hone the oil pump bushing, and knew how to deal with those old engines.

You guys aren't going to believe this but he took my .040 sleeve block that someone was running the pistons right on the cylinder walls and opened it up for the factory .090 sleeves,counter bored the block for the sleeves, installed the sleeves and checked piston fit, line honed the block, reconditioned and re-bushed the connecting rods,ground the valve seats, and reamed the oil pump bushing for $250.

The work was done perfectly too!

Not only was he the only guy I would trust to touch the parts, he might as well have given me his time.

Ken

 

[Soundguy]

Yeah.. BUT.. we aren't talking hidden damage here. The machinist is quoting on a job that WILL need machining if it is not already machined for sleaves.. even if no price is listed for it ( as it may already be bored out).. the jobber needs to at least list that as an extra , if encountered.

I hate getting quotes, then getting half way into a 1000$ rebuild, then the machiists says, oh yeah, I forgot to tell you, we may need another 1000$ worth of this or that on this type of device.. etc...

Soundguy

I worked at a machine shop for a while and there was no such thing as a quote without first tearing the engine down. Keeps everyone happy!!

You can ball park but to give a quote in writing is a sure fire way to start a bad relationship. Just too many simple jobs end up with cracks found after cleaning and magniflux inspection.

I will say this though, the shop owner bought a lot of core engines from scrap dealers and if a head was found bad and he had a core, the cost was really cheap or free for the good casting as long as it was a common part.

Ken