Ford 3000 Cylinder Sleeves?

mikim · Mar 27, 2007

Griffin - have you dealt with WCT in Brenham? wuz just wondering if they were better. I mostly deal with Kleiber in LaGrange but will be moving closer to 290 so may switch to WCT.

Griffin · Mar 27, 2007

I looked at Waller County back when I bought a new tire and they were a little high. I'll call them about the gas tank and let you know where they stand.

Soundguy · Mar 27, 2007

The one I posted is aftermarket.. however.. lots of OE CNH equipment is aftermarket. Many of the older parts you can buy from CNH will be from places like TISCO.. etc.

Water rusts tanks.. oem or aftermarket. keep the water out and you will be good to go.

Soundguy

Griffin said:
Oh, this puppy is a rebuild candidate for sure. The question is, do I rebuild now or wait another season. Since I am having to disassemble half the tractor just to get the gas tank off, I think I'll go ahead and yank the engine now.

Regarding the $500 tank, there's a NH dealer in town called Lansdowne Moody. All their stuff is high. I looked online last night and found tanks close to what you mentioned. Are these after market tanks or OEM? Will they hold up or rust on the inside?

Griffin · Mar 27, 2007

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get the steering wheel off? My standard puller won't work because these wheels don't have the predrilled and tapped holes. I barrowed a "rigged" puller from a tractor repair place down the road but it does not line up right and I can't crank on it enough to break the wheel loose without the thing trying to walk off the shaft. I'm this close to breaking out the torch.

Griffin · Mar 31, 2007

I made my own steering wheel puller and it worked great. I should patent that puppy.

I ordered a new tank and sending unit today from Yesterday's Tractors.

Does anyone have any recommendations on where to bolt a hoist to the front radiator and front axel assembly?

Soundguy · Apr 1, 2007

Axle halves bolt 'thru' holes where the wings attach?

Soundguy

Griffin · Apr 7, 2007

I've got just about everything off the engine and front end of the tractor. My latest obsticle is the radius rod bolts. One was stuborn but broke loose, the other is worse. I've shot it with JB and Liquid Wrench and it still won't break loose. I've put the nut on the bottom of the bolt and hammered up to try and get it to push on up and out. Nothing!! I've put a pipe wrench on it and it still won't give. I put a looong handle pipe wrench on it and it just wants to round the corners. Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm going to resort to hacksawing off the top of the bolthead and drive the bolt down thru the bottom. Got to love it.

Griffin · Apr 19, 2007

I pulled the motor out and dropped off at local machine shop. I'm getting the clutch reworked and the clutch pilot bearing replaced. I'll replace the clutch release bearing while I'm in there; once I figure out how to get it off. What else should I do while I have the tractor split open?

Soundguy · Apr 20, 2007

Tranny input shaft seal..

Soundguy

Kaliburz · Apr 20, 2007

Griffin said:
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get the steering wheel off? My standard puller won't work because these wheels don't have the predrilled and tapped holes. I barrowed a "rigged" puller from a tractor repair place down the road but it does not line up right and I can't crank on it enough to break the wheel loose without the thing trying to walk off the shaft. I'm this close to breaking out the torch.

Oh heck..... I destroyed my steering wheel. I tried to use a "gear puller" and it ripped the plastic off the steel. Parts guy at local auto store (older dude) knew which puller I should have gotten..... ended up replacing steering wheel on harvester....