How many hrs are on your 3000 Griffin ?Ours has closer to 4000 hrs on it .Our ford 3000 three cylinder has a distinctive knock in the engine i ask dad once he said its done it since new. So a injector or pump will cause hard starts and some smoke .The diesel engine tends to smoke whiteish or blackish when first started then black smoke when pulling hard. If it smokes constant after warm up, blueish then it may be the rings .If you are in doubt ask someone that knows a 3000 ford to listen to yours .A slight rapping knock is what our has . Its not as noticable at higher rpm 1500 to 1800.Of course i dont know your tractor but our is a 68 model.Also some of the fuel we have been getting is causing white smoke water can too in diesels.I hope this helps . Your injectors look like ours did when we took them out last year.We had two not snapping like they should the dealer rebuilt them .We had our pump reworked some years back .But overall we hadnt done much to the engine.
OP
Griffin
Bronze Member
I'll pick up the injectors and pump tomorrow from the repair shop and install them on Saturday or Sunday. Regarding the smoke, I was getting alot of white smoke when trying to start. The diesel shop says that this is probably because of the pump. After the engine started the diesel fumes were nauseating. The blowby tube has a fair amount of blue smike, so my guess is that I still will need to pull the motor. But, on the off chance that the injectors and pump were the whole problem I will reinstall them. But I am not holding my breath.
I wanted to add check your bypass return line. The line from the end injector to the fuel tank look in the tank just under the filler cap ,after starting and see if diesel is being pumped back in the tank from the line this i heard can cause rough running and smoke if clogged . Good luck with it .
OP
Griffin
Bronze Member
I picked up the injectors and pump this week. The injectors needed cleaning and adjusting, $90 for the set. The pump on the other hand needed a complete overhaul, $615. Put them back in today. Everything went smooth except having to tighten a couple of the fuel lines. After bleeding all the lines, I still had to hit the ether to it to get it to fire off. Once it started it ran fine. Much more responsive. However, I could still see some smoke coming out the blow-by tube. I'll start it up and drive it around a bit tomorrow to see how it does. I'll probably make plans to take the ROPS off and pull it in the garage to prepare for pulling the engine. From what I've read it sound pretty staright forward.
whitetiger
Gold Member
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2004
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- 371
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- Kansas City, Kansas
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- BX2370 Kubota, Ford 1100, MF135
There is only one way to cure an engine of emiting blue smoke from the blowby tube. Tear down and overhaul that puppy.
OP
Griffin
Bronze Member
Today when I started my tractor I noticed that fuel was dripping from under the engine cover. It turns out that the fuel return line has lost it's weld at the tank filler neck. Has anyone delt with this repair? JB Weld or pull the tank?
Soundguy
Old Timer
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- Central florida
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
Assuming you can clean it good, you can try jb-waterweld epoxy putty.. it clams to stick to gas and oil 'wet' metal.
I'd clean it with carb cleaner till it was shiny dry.. then try it.. it should work.
I had a leack fuel tap ( bad oring ) on my 7610s.. and had to mow that weekend. I cleane dthe dap to line connection good with carb cleaner.. and used the 4 minute jb quick weld. It did NOT leak. i picke dup a new oring the following monday, but waited 2 weeks to put it in cause it wasn't leaking. boy was it hard to chip off all that old JB weld!
Soundguy
I'd clean it with carb cleaner till it was shiny dry.. then try it.. it should work.
I had a leack fuel tap ( bad oring ) on my 7610s.. and had to mow that weekend. I cleane dthe dap to line connection good with carb cleaner.. and used the 4 minute jb quick weld. It did NOT leak. i picke dup a new oring the following monday, but waited 2 weeks to put it in cause it wasn't leaking. boy was it hard to chip off all that old JB weld!
Soundguy
OP
Griffin
Bronze Member
Hi Soundguy,
I priced two different shops on cleaning and repairing the gas tank. One was $95 and one was $50. A new one is $500. I think I'll yank this one off and have it cleaned and repaired. I read a post in this thread where a guy had rust in his tank. If I'm going to keep this 3000 I want it right.
I haven't pulled the motor yet but it runs great, after I hit it with ether. I also replaced the positive battery cable. It was not conducting right. The new one works great and the battery turns the motor over with ease. Too easy if you ask me. But I'm guessing that ties back to the motor / compression thing.
I priced two different shops on cleaning and repairing the gas tank. One was $95 and one was $50. A new one is $500. I think I'll yank this one off and have it cleaned and repaired. I read a post in this thread where a guy had rust in his tank. If I'm going to keep this 3000 I want it right.
I haven't pulled the motor yet but it runs great, after I hit it with ether. I also replaced the positive battery cable. It was not conducting right. The new one works great and the battery turns the motor over with ease. Too easy if you ask me. But I'm guessing that ties back to the motor / compression thing.
Soundguy
Old Timer
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- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
I'm not sure where you saw the 500$ fuel tank.. but the place i buy parts has them for 111$
---------------Fuel Tank - For 2000, 2100 1965 and up, 231, 2310, 233, 2600, 2610, 2810, 2910, 3000, 3100, 3120, 3150, 3300, 3310, 333, 3600, 3610, 3900, 3910, 4100, 4110, (4140 1965-1974), (4510SU 1981-2\1990), 4600SU, (531 1975-1981);L\FWD & L\CAB. Fuel tank. (Part No: C5NN9002AC) $111.85 [Enlarge Picture
Discount Tractor Parts and Manuals for Older and Antique Tractors
Ether you say? Hmm.. usually once an engine is addicted to ether.. it's a total rebuild candidate.
That's why the starter spins over so easy.. no compresion.
Ether can blow the ring grooves right off a piston.. good luck.
I steer away from engines than need ether to start.
Soundguy
---------------Fuel Tank - For 2000, 2100 1965 and up, 231, 2310, 233, 2600, 2610, 2810, 2910, 3000, 3100, 3120, 3150, 3300, 3310, 333, 3600, 3610, 3900, 3910, 4100, 4110, (4140 1965-1974), (4510SU 1981-2\1990), 4600SU, (531 1975-1981);L\FWD & L\CAB. Fuel tank. (Part No: C5NN9002AC) $111.85 [Enlarge Picture
Discount Tractor Parts and Manuals for Older and Antique Tractors
Ether you say? Hmm.. usually once an engine is addicted to ether.. it's a total rebuild candidate.
That's why the starter spins over so easy.. no compresion.
Ether can blow the ring grooves right off a piston.. good luck.
I steer away from engines than need ether to start.
Soundguy
OP
Griffin
Bronze Member
Oh, this puppy is a rebuild candidate for sure. The question is, do I rebuild now or wait another season. Since I am having to disassemble half the tractor just to get the gas tank off, I think I'll go ahead and yank the engine now.
Regarding the $500 tank, there's a NH dealer in town called Lansdowne Moody. All their stuff is high. I looked online last night and found tanks close to what you mentioned. Are these after market tanks or OEM? Will they hold up or rust on the inside?
Regarding the $500 tank, there's a NH dealer in town called Lansdowne Moody. All their stuff is high. I looked online last night and found tanks close to what you mentioned. Are these after market tanks or OEM? Will they hold up or rust on the inside?