Ford Model 101 3 Bottom Plow

idaho2 · Mar 1, 2015

Brandi,

My plow is similar and my tractor is a 5530. I noticed from your images a few things that I can assist you with. Is your plow leveled right to left and fore and aft. If not adjust the following: Lt. lift arm should be totally collapsed and not changed for plowing. The top link used to adjust the level for the plow fore and aft. The right lift arm is for adjusting the plow right to left. I will attach a photo of this. Your first pass for a field needs the right lift arm extend longer, than the normal plowing when the tractor wheels are in the furrow. After your initial rows, collapse (raise) the right lift arm to level the plow when the tractor is in the furrow. I measure top link and the right lift arm screw for the level on initial rows and then also for the normal tractor in furrow. My measurements are 28" from mid pin to mid pin on the top link. The right lift arm on initial rows is 8 threads showing at bottom of lift arm. Then I collapse so only 5 threads are showing on the right lift arm when tractor wheels are in the furrow. There is another adjustment to be made so the plow is flowing the tractor straight behind it. This is made on the plow draw bar. Which allows you to shift the plow right or left to mate up with your tractor. Growing up on the farm when we changed tractors for the pull type plow we adjusted the plow with levers. I hope this makes some sense.

idaho2

HCJtractor · Mar 1, 2015

bindian said:
Maybe I could grind the shoulder back so the ball will slide on enough for the lock pin? What do you think? That would be the cheapest way. hugs, Brandi

The post about tightening the plates is wrong. The pin just slips is the hole after aligning the parts. As I stated, I found a nut was not necessary. But you could if you wish, but certainly no need to tighten. And no need for grease or lubricant. I popped shear pins regularly, as many as 4 of 5 a day. Especially on soil previously untilled or where rocky. But the more you work the soil, the less it happens.

As far as the length of the hitch pin, mine was the same. Like you, I cut about 1/4" off the bushing. But my swivel ball was thinner than yours so I did not have that problem. I guess you have two choices. Grind the circumference of the hitch pin so it will seat further as you already mentioned. Of perhaps you could alter the length of the pin by using a standard bushing and welding it directly to the plow pin. Fill in the rest of the bushing end with molten steel with your welder to scab it longer and a fatter Cat 2. Then you could simply re drill another hole in the proper position for the locking hitch pin, through the welded on bushing and through the plows old pin, but further out where it needs to be.

bindian · Mar 1, 2015

idaho2 said:
Brandi,

My plow is similar and my tractor is a 5530. I noticed from your images a few things that I can assist you with. Is your plow leveled right to left and fore and aft. If not adjust the following: Lt. lift arm should be totally collapsed and not changed for plowing. The top link used to adjust the level for the plow fore and aft. The right lift arm is for adjusting the plow right to left. I will attach a photo of this. Your first pass for a field needs the right lift arm extend longer, than the normal plowing when the tractor wheels are in the furrow. After your initial rows, collapse (raise) the right lift arm to level the plow when the tractor is in the furrow. I measure top link and the right lift arm screw for the level on initial rows and then also for the normal tractor in furrow. My measurements are 28" from mid pin to mid pin on the top link. The right lift arm on initial rows is 8 threads showing at bottom of lift arm. Then I collapse so only 5 threads are showing on the right lift arm when tractor wheels are in the furrow. There is another adjustment to be made so the plow is flowing the tractor straight behind it. This is made on the plow draw bar. Which allows you to shift the plow right or left to mate up with your tractor. Growing up on the farm when we changed tractors for the pull type plow we adjusted the plow with levers. I hope this makes some sense.

idaho2

Thanks Idaho2,
The photos I took were just playing around and no adjustments have been made. Just me trying to get a feel for the plow and I got the feel of what happens before shearing a bolt.

I got the operators manual with it and it lays it all out in black and white hard copy.

Initial manual setup is to put the tractors left tires on a seven inch block (for 14 inch plows) and level the plow. This is initial setup before going to the field. I'll do that then I will see.
hugs, Brandi

bindian · Mar 2, 2015

I will probably just take this plow and fix it up to sale. One coulter bearing............rolling landside bearing....................beat out the dents in rolling landside...............new shearbols............and new Ford blue paint...............as I really don't wanna grind on it or my tractor's 3PH arm ball swivel.

What I really wonder is.............who made the best 4 bottom plow? Ford 140?
hugs, Brandi

sixdogs · Mar 2, 2015

There are several possibilities with your too-short pin. Maybe a longer stub could be welded on, maybe you could get a junk Mahindra end with the ball in it and grind the ball down or maybe you could just get a whole new tractor lift arm off a similar tractor. I'll bet a lot of them and probably different brands would fit. That plow cross bar is a common item in boneyards and I'll bet you could find one. There isn't a great demand for 101 parts and once damaged beyond use it isn't worth putting the $$ into them. Welding a stub on is probably the easiest and the greatest help towards resale.

On tightening the plates up, you don't want to crank them down tight but to take the excess slop out so you don't twist things. That's a judgement thing and loose bolts cause problems. On the oil on them, the spring trip models have grease fittings to lube the shank and the owner's manual mentions to grease to prevent a fail to trip scenario that bends things. Maybe the trip model is different. Same with the shear bolts. I have never owned a trip model like that so be careful to use the right bolts so the thing trips. In roots it will trip and you sure seem to have the HP to pull it. Most 101's were blue but I think the very early ones might have been Ford early Rouge red and not NH red. Yours is likely blue. Buyers are drawn to the right colors and steer clear of the wrong colors.

No plow is "best" as is no tractor is best. Widely regarded as best, however would be Kverneland but you aren't likely to find any in Texas and need experience to not buy the wrong one. Their long sweep moldboards pull easy and their plows have won nearly every plowing championship for the past 50 years.

The most practical best for around my area would most likely be an Oliver, White or their clones. I think the Ford 140 is a White/Oliver but not sure. Find a tillage catalog and see what parts are common to each other and that's a good start. Old Deere plows pull hard but are loved. IH plows run the range and are well regarded. Generally, the plow, because of it's exposure of soil to erosion has mostly faded away in favor of the chisel plow that fractures the ground, lessens compaction issues and is faster with less fuel use. The moldboard plow is a sometime thing where soil inversion has a use.

I have owned a lot of plows and for me it's no more. I have a ripper and chisel plow and that does everything I need in the Midwest black dirt/clay. Still, I would like to find a 3X Kverneland, convert to 2X and pull behind a smaller Kubota for gardens or whatever. Maybe just restore correctly and look at it from time to time. They are a work of art--and parts are priced accordingly.

For whatever reason, I really am drawn to moldboard plows and have owned a lot of them. Maybe it's just about the chase and not the end game?

Here's an example of the correct red below--look how it pops--although I'd bet yours was blue. If you paint it blue, Ford factory paint is excellent quality and the best paint for the money in my view.

bindian · Mar 7, 2015

6dogs,
Your plow's color does pop. I like it.

I bought Grade 8 bolts and tried it today. Come to find out, it wasn't a root that sheared the bolt, but a stump that was below grade. It sheared another bolt on it today. While replaceing this bolt, I noticed this.....

Ford Model 101 Coulter U Bolt Sheared.jpg

Then I looked at the sheared U Bolt and saw that it was an old break and I just finished breaking it....

Then I plowed all I could up to the dead oak tree that needs to go....

hugs, Brandi

sixdogs · Mar 8, 2015

That is a great job in a difficult environment. My hat is off to your determination and perseverance.

davethegundoctor · Mar 8, 2015

This is a great plow. I have had mine for many years. I added a Gauge wheel on the left side. Still many parts out there for them I hope these photo's load.

sixdogs · Mar 8, 2015

Here's a better example of Ford Dearborn Red. Ford Red/New Holland Red is darker. The 101 was almost certainly blue but it is possible a very few were red. The early two bottom Ford Dearborn plows were this color red while the similar looking Ferguson was Ferguson Gray.