kennyd
Advertiser
Interesting solution to not having an extra set of remotes, but I don't see how you could pile snow well since you basically can't change the angle of the blade through the loader's range of motion.
Any concern that when angled and pushing a large pile of snow (or hitting a stump, curb etc) that the loader arms will be bent to the side? There is really no lateral support on loader arms.
Any concern that when angled and pushing a large pile of snow (or hitting a stump, curb etc) that the loader arms will be bent to the side? There is really no lateral support on loader arms.
That's like asking the Ford/Chevy question! Some say yes, some say no...has been debated MANY times!
My concern is damaging the FEL arms if I hit something nasty. (That is how the rear blade got broken -- a healthy stump, cut to ground level at the edge of the driveway, snagged the blade.) The name-brand blade was rated at 50 hp, but a 25 hp tractor managed to rip the blade cleanly away away from the 3-point frame.
Are the roll cylinders still connected? Or are they disconnected?
A picture of the hydraulic connection would help me understand it a lot better.
Interesting solution to not having an extra set of remotes, but I don't see how you could pile snow well since you basically can't change the angle of the blade through the loader's range of motion.
Looks good-nice and compact. I assume you are going to use only one of the bucket dump cylinders? The plow has single acting cylinders-your loader dump cylinders are double action correct-so you will have to position the one dump cylinder you don't use so it it not doing damage when you activate the valve.
Also I believe you need a cross connection valve so when you hit an object, the cylinders relieve themselves without doing damage. I rigged up an old Meyers truck plow on my JD 3320 that had a third valve. much easier as you are only dealing with two hoses from the control valve vs the four you are contending with- see attached.