Front mount snow blade

caddison · Feb 6, 2011

Bill.... I just picked up an adjustable three point lift arm to replace the chain to if it gives me a little better control. We have some more snow on the way so I should get a chance to try it out.

Snowstorm · Feb 7, 2011

We had a Ford 1000 in 1975 that we wanted to use to plow snow but we didn't have any hyraulic parts so we came up with another way to raise/lower the plow - we ran a cable through some pulleys between the plow and the 3pt hitch. The snowplow was made out of a 40 gallon hot water tank cut in half and then welded together (top drawing). The push arms went back under the tractor and attached to an extra set of ears that hung down near where the lower link of the 3pt hitch attached. The cable attached near the top link and went under a pulley bolted to the lower drawbar, running the length of the underside of the tractor and then up through two pulleys attached to the front weight bracket. It then went down and attached to the plow. Raise the 3pt hitch and the plow came off the ground. The drawing is rough but it should give the general idea of how the cable was routed for anyone wanting to raise a plow but not having hydraulics.

Kevin

billkater · Feb 7, 2011

I have a float feature on my loader but the handle keeps popping out. I have to hold it for it to work. I am going to try the chain to see how well it floats with it.

shinnlinger · Feb 8, 2011

Bill.

I like your setup and may very well copy it. After you replace the toplink with a chain, I wonder if a shock absorber or two would help give you some down pressure but also have some give? Welding a a piece of rr track to the blade might help also if you want down pressure.

I think the tripping blade and a crossover relief valve are reasonable precautions.

here is one of the way I have removed snow...

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/116483-another-foot-snow-today-6.html

nybirdman · Feb 8, 2011

I think the weight of the blade/FEL will give all the down pressure that you will need;changing to a chain lift is a good idea,lets the plow float on uneven surfaces.If you are trying to scape;a rear blade(in tandem with front) works really well;I can scrape down to asphalt with the rear blade.

foggy1111 · Jun 21, 2011

Just found this post. I REALLY like the way you mounted the blade close to the loader frame. This should reduce the stress on your loader in a big way. Seems to me it would not be much worse than working in dirt?

I bookmarked this page.....and after finding a good used plow I think there is lots of useful information here for me. Thanks! :thumbsup:

Moondog08 · Jun 21, 2011

I too just found this post. A lot of good info. Any more feedback from the folks that have this type of setup? Just noticed the last posts were early Feb and would like to hear their conclusions about how it all worked out.

Moondog

billkater · Jun 21, 2011

After switching to the chain the blade floats along the paved parking lots I plow with no problem. Reduced the amount of time it takes to plow my largest lot by half compared to the FEL/backblade combination. I am still able to stack snow fairly high also.

By adjusting the tilt of the blade it seems you can increase the cutting efficiency in the hard and packed snow. By being able to angle the blade from the seat it is much easier to roll the snow the same direction without having to do alot of backing up.

I did not feel the front of the tractor being pushed sideways while plowing so I am not sure how much sideways stress is being placed on the FEL framework.

foggy1111 · Jun 21, 2011

I placed a WTB for a snow plow on CL this morning. At supper time a guy calls me with a 7' Meyer plow for $75.

I just returned from looking at it.....and I now own it. Seems complete....but no hydraulics for tilt on the plow.

Looks like I just bought a plow project. Hopefully I can get a good result - like this this build. :thumbsup: