Fuel Tailer

[mrcaptainbob]

Sounds like a good project, Eddie. Do use the 7# to calculate, Add that to your estimated trailer and tank weight. Sounds like you're getting close there to that axle capacity. And, although the axle may be able to carry the load, verify the load rating on whatever tires you use. Also, figure about 10% to 12% on the tongue weight after filling. How different are the tank sizes? Do you think it would adversely affect handling? I believe there's also some laws/codes on having electric brakes at a certain weight in some areas. I wish there was something similar I could do for gasoline. I got guts, but not enough for that! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[KiotiJohn]

Correct about the weight of diesel. Depending on season and content it's usually between 6.96 and 7.2 pounds/gal. The US average is 7.1#. John

 

[EddieWalker]

Thanks for all the great input!

The smaller tank has a plate on it saying its capacity is 100 gallons, but fill level is 90 gallons. The larger tank is longer, but thinner. I'd guess it's gonna hold another 20 gallons or so.

For calculating, lets say 220 gallons total. Using the correct figure now, 7lbs a gallon puts me at 1,540lbs of fuel. The tanks, the trailer and wood shouldn't be more that 700lbs. That still puts me well below my axle capicity of 3,500lbs.

I've decided to put on brand new tires. Walmart has some in the $30 each range. That just seems like cheap insurance and the smart thing to do.

The reason for having a dedicated trailer to haul and store diesel is to not have to handle it. I want to be able to drive a tractor up to it, plug in the 12 volt pump and fill up. Keep it quick, clean and simple.

200 gallons should last me a full week of working hard, depending on what I'm running the most.

Resale should also be fairly easy when I'm done with it. I saw a 300 gallon tank with pump on a trailer advertised for $1,000 not too long ago.

I have an old truck inner tube that I'll use to keep the aluminum tanks off the PT wood. No point risking it, especially since I have the tube already.

Eddie

 

[fishman]

Eddie,

In my opinion, if you're going to buy new anyway, you should buy some trailer tires rated for the capacity you intend to carry. Many people buy passenger tires to save $20, and they aren't rated for trailers.

For example, my 7k trailer with two axles has 14" trailer tires. They hold 60 psi and the combined weight rating for all four exceed the 7k rating of the two axles.

A good brand is Goodyear Marathons, although there are probably others out there just as good.

 

[Bird]

Of course, I agree with fishman about buying the "special trailer" tires and suspect you already are familiar with that. If not, the trailer tire size on the sidewall includes an "ST" just as light truck tires include the "LT" with their size. And the Goodyear Marathons are good. I put them on my fifth-wheel trailer because they were the first "radial" trailer tires. Of course, later I was selling B.F. Goodrichs when they came out with radial tires for trailers and I'm sure there are lots of other good brands available, also. I've read (don't know for sure) that the ST tires have a slightly different chemical makeup to make them more resistant to weather cracking caused by UV rays.

 

[ns_in_tex]

Eddie,

I think you will enjoy the trailer mounted tank.
If your gas supplier would give you an old pump, you might want to do what I did.

This is an old skid tank, with a manual pump on one end, which I never use. I have an inverter on my truck, so if I happen to be away from elect supply, just run it off the inverter.

I have since installed a regular ball hitch & tongue jack, safety chains, ETC.

 

[fractal]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Eddie, I think Rambler is right about the DOT law. I thought I remembered it being told to me as 110 gal. )</font>

That's what I remember the hazmat limit for combustable materials (diesel) being as well. Flamable materials (gasoline) is a LOT less.

I bought a book from northern tool on how to build trailers. It had some very interesting hints. Two of them are to buy a proper step hitch to keep the trailer level and never, never weld a hitch to the top of your a-frame. That puts a heap and bunch of stress on your weld in ways they aren't strong.

The point about ST rated tires can not be overstated. Your normal automotive tires / rims are rarely rated at over 1200-1500 pounds per tire and are often rated less. It would be a shame to have a 3500 pound axle but be limited to 2400 pounds by your tires and 1800 by your rims.

 

[Joe1]

You've been geting advice from all over the place, and I agree with it; not that my opinion should be your concern.

I will add one recommendation.

You need to check into grounding the tank as there may be an issue with static electricity while filling and emptying the tank.

Where I purchase my off road diesel, the distributor wants the tank on the ground while it's being filled. It may not be an issue in your area.

As bird mentioned, you need to ensure that the tires will also carry the load you intend to haul.


Good luck.

Joe

 

[EddieWalker]

I didn't think about grounding it. One of those things that never occured to me. I don't know if I need it or not. I haven't seen it in any other trailers, but it's a good idea.

How would I go about grounding it?

Would running a wire from the tank to the frame worK?

That really isn't ground like I think your talking about, but just negative off the DC battery.

What about a wire off the tanks that I could clip onto a ground source at the filling station?

Thanks for all the good advice!!!!

Eddie

 

[btolle]

Think about it for a minute: 18 wheelers are sitting on 18 rubber tires that insulate them from the ground.

Portable gasoline containers are supposed to be filled out of the vehicle, but gasoline fumes are different than diesel fumes.

I doubt that grounding will be an issue with the trailer mounted setup.

Bill Tolle