Builder
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- Kubota, AGCO, New Holland LB
Cool! 
Garage project
- Thread starter dieselsmoke1
- Start date
- Views: 20379
buckeyefarmer
Epic Contributor
Interesting reading. When I did my garage floor I put a slab ledge in the frost wall. Rebar 2' oc both ways, and poured to the walls, on top of the slab ledge. I also put piers, 2 per bay under the middle of the slab. I didn't saw cut and have one minor crack.
Question for you slab experts. When I do my barn floor, should I tie the rebar into the posts?
Question for you slab experts. When I do my barn floor, should I tie the rebar into the posts?
hepnerj
New member
Awesome thread!! Very informative. Thank you to all who have contributed.
John
John
whitedogone
Gold Member
I hear that. Always good to get to the part that really looks like something. Looks great so far. Heck, if you weren't so far I might have straped my tool belt on and given ya a hand. WDO
Builder
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You can, but since the posts are not a continuous masonry wall (like in a traditional garage) the posts will only offer a small amount of support to the slab. A continous masonry wall will provide more continous support. A pole barn concrete slab is somewhat more exposed to problems than a traditional masonry frost wall garage.
OP
dieselsmoke1
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warburtonplayer
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How much money will you have in it when you are finished?
602466
Silver Member
Nice work!
Wally
Wally
OP
dieselsmoke1
Platinum Member
Around 30k.
warburtonplayer
Silver Member
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What did it cost to do your concrete and block work? Also did you frame it up yourself of contract it out if contracted how much did you pay?
OP
dieselsmoke1
Platinum Member
WOO HOO!!!! Passed my framing inspection first shot out of the gun! I'll start wrapping up the outside this weekend. Roofers will be there next Monday and the OH Door folks on Tuesday. I'll get some pictures this weekend.
OP
dieselsmoke1
Platinum Member
I honestly can't tell you the cost right now. Everything spent is saved in one folder but I'm not sure I want to add it up just yet.
As long as the Bride keeps covering the checks I'm writing I ain't looking back.I'm doing all the framing myself with the help of 2 friends. I've got to add a hidden cost to the equation because it takes about $100 a day to keep them in food and beer......well I guess that includes me but I don't count.
OP
dieselsmoke1
Platinum Member
srs
Veteran Member
Dieselsmoke1, looks great! I was wondering (if it isn't too late) that you should raise the height of the second floor window. Seems a little too close to the floor. Your thoughts?
OP
dieselsmoke1
Platinum Member
It is close, but it needed to be at that level to make the front elevation match. It's a 70" high circle top window so the distance from floor to opening above the sill will be similar to the distance down from an 8' ceiling.
srs
Veteran Member
ok, thanks. please continue with the pictures.
JDGreenGrass
Veteran Member
I know you will most likely put a gutter in but, why did you decide to put your doors under the drip edge.??
Shingled roof or metal.??
Shingled roof or metal.??
OP
dieselsmoke1
Platinum Member
That's a fair question. All things being equal I'd rather have the doors in a gable end for several reasons. In my case it was necessary to open the side wall so I could match the front elevation of the attached garage across the pad.
The roof is architectural shingles to match the existing on the house.
The roof is architectural shingles to match the existing on the house.
OP
dieselsmoke1
Platinum Member
Got the house wrap on today. Surprised that something that appears so simple and straight forward could be so difficult to do correctly. Having the wind wrap this stuff around you while on top of a 24' ladder just ain't no fun at all.
