Garden Kitchen/Processing Room

[Beltzington]

I am building a shed and am using the 1/2" (Red) ZIP for roof and walls sheeting mostly because they were in stock at the local lumber store. So far the product has held up to exposure as promised and seems a great solution for slow DIY builds.

I am thinking about using cedar textured hardi panels as the "board" and actual cedar trim as the "baton," but now I am curios why you commented you hated the panel hardiboard?

 

[EddieWalker]

You just can't hide the seams of the 4x8 sheets without installing something over them. I didn't want to do this and thought I could hide the seams with caulking. That just made it more obvious, which added to my dislike of the product. For a board and baton look, it is probably fine, you just need to add the batons every foot so it's equal and looks right. Cost wise, it would be the best way to go.

Part of my changes to my house is going with Hardie lap siding on the walls for the first floor, then I'm going to use the 12 inch wide Hardie full grain upright to form a board and baton look for the second story and gable ends with the 1x4 trim pieces over the seams. I did this on my deer blind and really like how it turned out.

 

[GPintheMitten]

Fire breaks like drywall are to allow for a minimum time to escape, slowing the rapid spread of fire through a structure. It is for the safety of residents, not to prevent damage to actual contents or eventuality of structural damage. I'd you have no code or inspections and don't care about safety, you can leave it out.

 

[EddieWalker]

Fire breaks like drywall are to allow for a minimum time to escape, slowing the rapid spread of fire through a structure. It is for the safety of residents, not to prevent damage to actual contents or eventuality of structural damage. I'd you have no code or inspections and don't care about safety, you can leave it out.

I'm not aware of where I said or gave the impression that I don't care about safety. Was that just a rude comment for no apparent reason? I've done some searching and have not been able to find anything that requires sheetrock on the ceiling for a fire break except this one quote that requires it in enclosed usable spaces under a stairwell. I've never seen it used before wood goes up on a ceiling, and I'm curious where you have? My understanding on using sheetrock is that you use 5/8's when spanning 24 inches, and half inch when spanning 16 inches. The thickness is because of the span.

The only times I'm aware it's used for a fire block is like mentioned in the quote between the house and the attached garage. Not mentioned in the quote, it's also required between adjoining homes with a common wall all the way through the attic space to the roof.


"Drywall In Fire-Resistive Construction

There are two areas in residential construction where one-hour fire resistive construction is required. One area is the wall separating an attached garage from the living area, and the other is enclosed usable space (walls and ceilings) under a stairway. A one-hour firewall is constructed as follows: 5/8" type "X" gypsum wallboard is nailed 7" on center with 6d "cooler" nails to studs spaced 16" on center. All gaps and penetrations must be filled with taping cement or stuffed with non-combustible material such as fiberglass insulation."

 

[EddieWalker]

Ceiling and beams are stained. We went with Minwax in Puritan Pine

 

[EddieWalker]

For the shelves, I wanted something open, and easy to see what's up there. Basic shelves seemed kind of boring to me, so I'm trying something new. I bought some shelf brackets and welded them up to make them stronger, then mounted them upside down on the top shelf. I also ran a bolt through the shelf and the bracket to make sure screw threads would never pull out. Then the lower shelves are hung from that top one with branches that I cut from a downed oak tree. It took a very long time to get them sanded how I wanted them, but the result was worth it.



For the bottom, I'm making normal enough cabinets from plywood. The stainless steel sink was something I saw on FB lat year and knew I had to have it for this project. This is the first time I've seen it where it's going to go. I'm going to cut the legs off of it and the lip on the sides so I can put the counter top over it just like an under mount sink. Because there is no way to get to the water lines or the back of the faucet once installed, the sink will have to be able to slide out when I'm done with everything.

I'm going to try to make concrete counter tops. We want them to be as black as possible, so right now I'm researching ways to dye the concrete. Has anybody done this before? Lowes sells a specific Readi Mix labeled for counter tops at $18 for an 80 pound sack. Pricey, but hopefully worth it.

 

[DFB]

For the shelves, I wanted something open, and easy to see what's up there. Basic shelves seemed kind of boring to me, so I'm trying something new. I bought some shelf brackets and welded them up to make them stronger, then mounted them upside down on the top shelf. I also ran a bolt through the shelf and the bracket to make sure screw threads would never pull out. Then the lower shelves are hung from that top one with branches that I cut from a downed oak tree. It took a very long time to get them sanded how I wanted them, but the result was worth it.

View attachment 460024

:thumbsup:!

 

[s219]

A+ on the shelves Eddie.

 

[Ed of all trades]

Eddie PLEASE delete the pic of the shelves, If my wife sees it i will be building shelves just like that, but with some minor change that wont take much to do. Just :laughing: I really like the shelves and I likely will be building some. Ed

 

[ustmd]

I'm going to try to make concrete counter tops. We want them to be as black as possible, so right now I'm researching ways to dye the concrete. Has anybody done this before? Lowes sells a specific Readi Mix labeled for counter tops at $18 for an 80 pound sack. Pricey, but hopefully worth it.

My wife and I were looking into concrete countertops (we like the industrial look and have stained concrete for our flooring). I did a lot of research on line--some good youtube videos on doing them.

I have talked to several people who have concrete countertops and they give mixed reviews on how well they hold up. You would think they would be robust and could be sealed well. Some of the people I talked to showed me chips along the edges (from pans impacting the corners) and one showed me some cracking from thermal shock from a hot pan. Also, the food grade rated sealers are not as robust as the epoxy sealers you can put on a regular floor, so staining can be an issue.

Since this is a processing room, neither of these concerns may matter to you.

An alternative which may not be as expensive as you think is to look at getting stainless steel countertops custom made in a shop and install them yourself. Not only would they match your sink, but the clean up would be just an easy.