generator to home panel connection

[Travelover]

If you do a search, you'll see that this whole issue has been discussed in depth before, complete with passionate arguments for different opinions.

 

[larryccf]

didn't realize this was such a polarizing item

 

[Travelover]

didn't realize this was such a polarizing item

Anything safety related seems to incite heated discussion.

I considered fabbing up my own interlock like you did. but ended up installing a more traditional partial transfer switch. If I ever have a new service box installed, I think I'll go with one with the built in interlock, since it allows one to power every circuit during an outage.

 

[Inspector507]

The kits from Interlockkit are listed, not by UL, but still listed by a NRTL.
They are acceptable here in Ohio.

 

[larryccf]

... I would never give my blessing to such a device. It is a bad design. Period. Nothing prevents it from being disabled simply by the panel covers being removed. Another thing, nothing guarantees the main breaker is actually open when the lever is flipped to the off position. You wouldn't believe the number of people who can't even reset a breaker! How would you expect them to be able to actually tell when there is a problem with one? LOTS of people out there are best described as being Stuck On Stupid. Just look at some of the examples of them that people have posted on this Forum.

while i respect your experience, and agree with the assessment that a portion of the population is "stuck on stupid", i'm not sure what you feel would make someone "stuck on stupid" any less inclined to removing the panel cover on a panel box employing a transfer switch to "tweak" or "adjust" it - and effecting a dangerous scenario

and 2nd, if you study the images, both mine and the ones on the website offering them, physically it's impossible to close the main breaker unless the gen breaker is thrown open, and vice versa - unless i'm missing something

i've also been told that it's a common practice today, in light of the proliferation of residential generators, for lineman to disconnect & isolate a circuit before working on it - so i'm not sure how an interlock kit, properly installed and used creates a safety hazard

i've had folks from my utility company here twice in three years, and both times they went to my panel box - power line fm the utility company comes to my house meter underground, and twice, after real heavy rains power to half the house went out - had an electrician in and he identified one of the 110V legs from meter as being dead, and he had me call the utility company - that's when they were at my panel box)

- both times they asked me about the interlock kit and i told them i'd made it and showed them the letter from my county bldg inspector's office approving it - both times, after inspecting it and how it functioned and was connected, neither tech from utility company said word one about the interlock kit regarding any danger to their lineman - i feel safe in assuming if they felt there was an element to the design, execution or installation that was potentially dangerous, they'd have said something

as a side note, they still haven't replaced the underground cable leading up to my house meter - apparently, their words, a mole or something has broken the insulation on one leg or wire and moist soil grounds it out when it rains but it hasn't been permanent outage or occurred often enough so they've left without replacing it

 

[RickB]

while i respect your experience, and agree with the assessment that a portion of the population is "stuck on stupid", i'm not sure what you feel would make someone "stuck on stupid" any less inclined to removing the panel cover on a panel box employing a transfer switch to "tweak" or "adjust" it - and effecting a dangerous scenario

Being the owner of a double pole, double throw transfer switch wired between my meter and entrance panel, I can't imagine how anyone "stuck on stupid" (I love that!) could configure the device to backfeed into the grid without electrocuting himself (or to be fair, herself) or committing an act of criminal negligence. The DP/DT transfer switch is about as close to idiot-proof as anything can be. I can't imagine a mechanical failure of the switch that would allow a backfeed, unlike the device featured in this thread . The price I paid for the switch and professional installation of it is an investment in peace of mind and one more payment towards a clear conscience.

 

[RickB]

as a side note, they still haven't replaced the underground cable leading up to my house meter - apparently, their words, a mole or something has broken the insulation on one leg or wire and moist soil grounds it out when it rains but it hasn't been permanent outage or occurred often enough so they've left without replacing it

That scenario speaks volumes about the attitude of your local utility and more importantly, your (lack of) understanding of the dangers posed by allowing that condition to exist on your property.

 

[hr3]

You are right this is a very passionate subject.. There are those of us that like to do things the tryed and true way then there are those who don't.. The "easy" way out and does work, is to buy a "UL" listed device to do what you are doing Larry.. You can make your own,,also and it looks nice,,good job,, But in the UL one you "copied" there were captive screws that were flat on the backside... #1- so that they would not come close to anything behind the panel cover #2 - and so that no nut's or washers will fall down into your live panel... I wonder if it were to cause a problem and you were to contact your insurance company for damages if they would cover it,,hmmm I think not,,,even if you still had the letter from your local inspector after the fire.. I wonder if he could be held liable .. #3- you are still also running your 50a breaker from your gen. into a 30a dryer outlet "and I wonder if it is 3 wire or 4 wire"???

 

[larryccf]

That scenario speaks volumes about the attitude of your local utility and more importantly, your (lack of) understanding of the dangers posed by allowing that condition to exist on your property.

i think it sez exactly the opposite - i've called & written the SCC about it as i am aware - i've worried about how much current is running thru the ground and will it fry my bird dogs if they step on the wrong wet spot in the yard (have no kids, here or in the neighborhood as everyone around me is same as i am, 60s and yard is fenced) - but unknown what else i can do short of sending a couple ninjas to take a utility company manager hostage till they fix it?? I suspect the odds are low as the ground will absorb a lot of current, but still i mentioned it as i think the odds of it hurting my bird dogs is greater than my allowing anyone inside my panel box to do anything stupid.

As to your point on not imagining what someone stuck on stupid could do to defeat a transfer switch - i can imagine quite a bit if that transfer box is mounted next to the panel box and not outside - if i'm wrong on that, correct me as i'm not an electrical engineer but have seen my share of idiots - i used to be in real estate and had a tenant burn a house down in the 80s when he, to save on electrical bill, installed his own flourescent light fixture in the kitchen ceiling fixture, using masking tape in lieu of electrical wire nut - fire department identified cause of fire


hr3 "...But in the UL one you "copied" there were captive screws that were flat on the backside... #1- so that they would not come close to anything behind the panel cover #2 - and so that no nut's or washers will fall down into your live panel..."

and what i used were barrel nuts (McMaster-Carr) - the back side of the panel cover was abraded where the head of the barrel's head would contact, and JB Weld applied under the head before installing - that nut isn't going anywhere without a propane torch to soften that JB Weld - next time can i suggest you not assume, in advance, you know what someone "didn't do"

and as to "....#3- you are still also running your 50a breaker from your gen. into a 30a dryer outlet "and I wonder if it is 3 wire or 4 wire"???"

i have no idea where you read that i'm running a 30A dryer receptacle. A) i am using a pre-existing circuit, both the receptacle and breaker that were here, installed and feeding an electric clothes dryer when i moved in (i converted to natural gas right after we moved it, so that freed up that circuit and receptacle) - house was inspected by electrician, as part of purchase b) panel was inspected by county electrical inspector - i don't think it would have survived those two inspections if that were a 30a dryer receptacle. I'm not an electrician but i don't think i've ever even seen a 30a dryer receptacle - every clothes dryer circuit i've seen was 60A, same as electric hot water heater - i could be wrong, that a 30A dryer circuit exists but it would seem to be an awfully slow drying cycle. but i am dying of curiousity - where did you see mention of a 30a receptacle? Running a 50a circuit thru a 60amp receptacle would seem to be on the safe side and having accumulated 577 hours on this generator, with no meltdowns, i feel kinda safe in assuming it is -


PS -

 

[SuperDuty335]

I thought of using ninjas myself.