Gifted a Tractor... need help

[grsthegreat]

More likely about 10-12 years old. What a find


edit: Kioti manufactured DK45SE between 2007 and 2017.

 

[airbiscuit]

 

[Thomas]

Welcome to TBN.

Yup that's indeed one heck of grift.

Other given great advice...lift front tires off the ground spin wheels by hand listen for any grinding sounds.

 

[grsthegreat]

Heck, even if you have to put a couple of grand into parts, its a steal.

 

[jabelding]

Great find. The serial # starts with F so it is a 2006 model year.

 

[Little Red Tractor]

When you get them for free, a thousand bucks is a reasonable number to put into into it to get it home (on a roll-back), into a warm and dry garage near all your tools. Nice find for a great price!

 

[Page2]

Yep, as others have said, Get some air in those tires, that alone will give you a sense of accomplishment ;- ). Take a good look-see at tractor for broken parts, -- lines, hoses, cracks, especially engine -- no holes in block? Radiator holding coolant? Check tans fluid level. Then Fuel and engine oil -- drain fuel tank and replace filter (filters?) -- check that manual -- run some fresh fuel through tank while lines are open to flush it out. Fresh engine oil and filter, take a good look at old oil for metal shavings. If everything is looking good, put your battery in and give it several shorts cranks to get things loosened up and oil circulating, and give it another once over, if all is ok, then actually try to start it. Hopefully all goes good and she starts and runs. Then you can go through and change out the rest, trans fluid, hydraulic fluid, coolant, ETC. You got a nice tractor there, good luck with it.

 

[CliffordK]

Air in the tires. They probably also have a liquid in the tires which is normal/desired. Watch for leaks at the valve stem which can often be repaired easily.

Some tractors have all ignition functions in the key. Others only start with the key, and have a kill switch. And some even have a kill switch and a crank switch separate from the key.

Anyway, many tractors are extremely easy to hot wire while you're waiting for a new switch to come.

Good luck with it.

 

[airbiscuit]

Time for an update. What have you done/learned so far?

 

[thepumpguysc]

Isn’t that the series that has the brittle gears in the inj pump that break in the s/o position..??
If your still waiting on a switch.. in the meantime, go get a remote starter button..
You’ll probably have to jump a couple of safety switch’s to get it to start.. neutral safety switch, operator present switch (seat)… there’s probably 1 more I’m forgetting but it’ll be in your manuals..

 

[lacritz]

Hey team, this is my first post here. I hope I can get some illuminating responses. My in-laws have a Kioti KL401 (is that the real model# or is that just the loader) that's been sitting quite a while. I told them I'd take it off their hands and they said OK. I can't

seem to find the year of manufacture by searching on the Internet and was wondering if anyone had a resource. I figure that's a big part of finding parts and equipment. I'm pretty sure it's 20+ years old. They said the ignition switch had gone up so I figured I'll replace it, get a new battery and change oil and filter (twice). Diesel in there is maybe still good? I'm assuming the hydraulics need some love but don't know where to begin. Needs a seat. Tire on the back obviously needs help.

I'm mechanical. Work on cars etc, just don't know much about tractors. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you!

that is the loader #

 

[Robin Veerman]

Obviously you’ve not read ALL the posts. Like #2, 3, 4….You’re late to the party.

 

[Coyote machine]

The locked thread at top of this forum details everything needed to repair a defective injection pump of the vintage your tractor falls into. Keep it in mind if problems arise. Beware that if the pump were to break in wide open throttle position; referred to as runaway, you'd have to block the intake air to shut down the motor - before it would self destruct.
Now, fix tire, change fluids and all filters; especially the HST and hydraulic filters, and top off the hydraulic tank, IF the esisting fluid is clear color. If milky, you'll have to drain and refill all of it - many gallons- maybe 10 or more, IIRC.
Use high quality hydraulic oil for best results; not TSC or some other crap line wash quality, no spec oil. The oil is the life blood of the HST; don't skimp. In recent past I have said TSC hydraulic oil is fine- BUT I have updated data that says NO, it's garbage as far as specs and quality.

Good luck, they're great tractors - I just traded my 2010 DK-40SE/HST with 1530 hours. It was trouble free for its life with me.

 

[Robin Veerman]

Just understand that you need to consider the correct fluid before you worry about quality. If the oil you’re looking at is not the correct type, it might even contain gold fairy dust, it could cause damage. So if the tractor is a HST model you need Transmission/Hydraulic fluid for the entire transmission and hydraulic systems. If your tractor is a gear model it will require Hydraulic oil for the hydraulic system and gear oil in the transmission. Even this might vary from tractor to tractor, so do some homework to be sure what is required

 

[Coyote machine]

Just understand that you need to consider the correct fluid before you worry about quality. If the oil you’re looking at is not the correct type, it might even contain gold fairy dust, it could cause damage. So if the tractor is a HST model you need Transmission/Hydraulic fluid for the entire transmission and hydraulic systems. If your tractor is a gear model it will require Hydraulic oil for the hydraulic system and gear oil in the transmission. Even this might vary from tractor to tractor, so do some homework to be sure what is required

If quality of oil is not a factor then use recycled waste oil for that matter. It goes without saying that the correct type, viscosity and so forth are the key ingredients for any application, bar none.
Quality is key to outcome and longevity of the machine along with periodic filter changes as specified by the manufacturer.

 

[murphy1244]

The locked thread at top of this forum details everything needed to repair a defective injection pump of the vintage your tractor falls into. Keep it in mind if problems arise. Beware that if the pump were to break in wide open throttle position; referred to as runaway, you'd have to block the intake air to shut down the motor - before it would self destruct.
Now, fix tire, change fluids and all filters; especially the HST and hydraulic filters, and top off the hydraulic tank, IF the esisting fluid is clear color. If milky, you'll have to drain and refill all of it - many gallons- maybe 10 or more, IIRC.
Use high quality hydraulic oil for best results; not TSC or some other crap line wash quality, no spec oil. The oil is the life blood of the HST; don't skimp. In recent past I have said TSC hydraulic oil is fine- BUT I have updated data that says NO, it's garbage as far as specs and quality.

Good luck, they're great tractors - I just traded my 2010 DK-40SE/HST with 1530 hours. It was trouble free for its life with me.

So what did you buy?

 

[Coyote machine]

So what did you buy?

Murph1244,
I thought you lost that screen name and switched to something else?!
Glad you're still on TBN.

So, not to hijack this thread; check out my recent threads about the KIOTI '24 CK 4020 cab, AND a '24 KIOTI TL- 750 track loader, I just bought from my dealer.
Really liking both - but too early to review in depth yet. See the buying and owning forums to follow the discussion of likes and dislikes.
To me, as I'm fairly sure with you too - the DK- 40s of the 2009- 2010 era were mostly bullet proof.
Cheers,
CM- out

 

[Robin Veerman]

If quality of oil is not a factor then use recycled waste oil for that matter. It goes without saying that the correct type, viscosity and so forth are the key ingredients for any application, bar none.
Quality is key to outcome and longevity of the machine along with periodic filter changes as specified by the manufacturer.

change fluids and all filters; especially the HST and hydraulic filters….
***
Use high quality hydraulic oil for best results; not TSC or some other crap line wash quality, no spec oil…
***
Was hoping that you would read between the lines actually. Your statement indicates that you’re aware that this is a HST tractor, but you’re advising this new-to-tractors owner to use Hydraulic oil. You be advising him incorrectly….
So correct oil first, then quality next

 

[Coyote machine]

change fluids and all filters; especially the HST and hydraulic filters….
***
Use high quality hydraulic oil for best results; not TSC or some other crap line wash quality, no spec oil…
***
Was hoping that you would read between the lines actually. Your statement indicates that you’re aware that this is a HST tractor, but you’re advising this new-to-tractors owner to use Hydraulic oil. You be advising him incorrectly….
So correct oil first, then quality next

Tractor was/is a gift. Doesn't mean it's his first tractor rodeo.
Hydraulic oil, HST fluid, universal tractor fluid, - I believe I stated to use the correct oil/fluid for the application - based on the MANUFACTURERS specifications. UTF, is an oil, by a specific spec, viscosity, etc.

You want to argue with me? It's pointless; and I'm not interested in further useless nitpicking.

My advice to the OP is sound, and meant to guide him to do what's needed. It's advice, not a bible to follow to the letter. I maintain, quality of oil/ fluid, then type. If the correct specified liquid is used, everything is covered. If the spec determines UTF is to be used; that base is covered.
I'm out - other fish to fry...

 

[Robin Veerman]

Hydraulic oil, HST fluid, universal tractor fluid, - I believe I stated to use the correct oil/fluid for the application - based on the MANUFACTURERS specifications. UTF, is an oil, by a specific spec, viscosity, etc.

Wasn’t sure that you did….but we’re good now