Gravel and Dirt Work - Which implement?

   / Gravel and Dirt Work - Which implement? #21  
Thank you everyone for all the help. The tractor I'm looking at to buy only has two remotes, and I'm already pushing the mythical budget anyway. I wont be getting a 5k rear-blade thats for sure. It sounds like for the most part the blade will help get me where i need to go, but in the future I'll need a land plane or a box blade. Now if you could all just help convince myself and my wife that I'm not crazy for spending this kind of money. All of this equipment I could borrow from family for free. But you reach a certain age where you want to be self-reliant. And I'm there. It may not be smart...but we can "afford" it. What to do..what to do.[/QUOTE

Before you give up on the $5K blade, get a price on one. Something like the RBT4096 without the hydraulics. I think that you will find out that they are not $5K. Mine was not and I checked on an RBT3584 earlier this year for my smaller tractor and it was under $2500. If your at the end of the budget, you need to really think about what implement to get. DO NOT GET ANYTHING LIGHT WEIGHT. With your tractor you will regret it in short order. With the 2 remotes that you are getting, you may want to consider getting a Top & Tilt setup for your 3pt hitch. A "TnT" set greatly enhances what you will do with your implements. ;)
 
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   / Gravel and Dirt Work - Which implement? #22  
I agree with pclausen on looking for a used blade to save some coins. I would not recommend getting a light blade new or used. Everyone I know has a budget that has limitations, I try to buy one piece at a time for the most part, takes a while to get everything.
 
   / Gravel and Dirt Work - Which implement? #23  
I agree with pclausen on looking for a used blade to save some coins. I would not recommend getting a light blade new or used. Everyone I know has a budget that has limitations, I try to buy one piece at a time for the most part, takes a while to get everything.

I agree, there are several people on TBN that have found "killer" deals on these hydraulic actuated blades. They are out there, just far and few between. :(
 
   / Gravel and Dirt Work - Which implement? #24  
Yes, you need a HEAVY blade. If you buy a cheap light blade, in no time you will have a cheap pile of scrap that barley resembles a blade.

If you are on a budget, you can skimp on a full hydraulic blade and get one that only angles hydraulically. (or has the ability to add that later). You could use it manually for awhile. But I would for sure add the TNT. With the hydraulic side-link, you have controll over the tilt of the blade. No point in having that be hydraulic on the blade as well. You wont have as much movement with the side-link, but in the rare cases you need more, you can hop off and angle manually. But getting the sidelink to control tilt vs getting it ON the blade, with the one on the blade, it ONLY works with THAT blade. With the sidelink, you can use it on ANY future implements to control tilt.
 
   / Gravel and Dirt Work - Which implement? #25  
I got my RBT 4596 with full 3 way hydraulics used for less than a new RBT 3584 without hydraulics at all. Look for a used one. The suggestion of going manual now with option to change to hydraulics later is valid as well. As far as only having two remotes in back Landpride makes a solution that I can't think of of the proper name right now but it is basically a diverter kit that allows you to split one remote into two sources. Kind of a hydraulic splitter valve. It is not to bad on cost and allows you to use a three hydraulic system with two rear remotes. You can also do it by yourself using stuff you build from off the shelf.

From a Landpride manual
Hydraulic Selector Valve
Kit Bundle
301-188A . . . . . . . . . HYDRAULIC SELECTOR VALVE
Allows operation of 3 cylinders using 2 duplex outlets.
 
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   / Gravel and Dirt Work - Which implement?
  • Thread Starter
#26  
I had never really considered the hydraulic option, I quess that would make it less rigid. As since the angle and tilt was hydrualic based, it would be more apt to bleed and "give" to the pressure versus the manual, pin "lock in place" Am I mistaken?
 
   / Gravel and Dirt Work - Which implement?
  • Thread Starter
#27  
Also, how much is the Top and Tilt setup..I've never heard of it.
 
   / Gravel and Dirt Work - Which implement? #28  
Look at post #23 in this thead. (look ip a few posts). THAT is the man you need to speak with regarding the TNT kits.
 
   / Gravel and Dirt Work - Which implement?
  • Thread Starter
#29  
Look at post #23 in this thead. (look ip a few posts). THAT is the man you need to speak with regarding the TNT kits.

Ahh, thanks.
 
   / Gravel and Dirt Work - Which implement? #30  
Also, how much is the Top and Tilt setup..I've never heard of it.

$623 + shipping costs of $75-$100???. :confused3: I would build the links using 3" dia cylinders with 1 1/2" dia rods. Top link would have a working length or 21"-31". Side link is built to be able to get you an equal amount of tilt to both sides. 2 hose kits made with 3/8" hose, with 1/2" male AG quick connect ends. 2 flow restrictors, these allow for slower smoother adjustments of the hydraulic links. Current lead times are putting ship dates into the first part of January.

A few pictures. The maximum tilt is usually between 9 and 13 degrees to each side, depending on the tractor.


Let me know if you are interested. ;)
 

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