Help building a Snow plow blade for FEL

shaley · Jan 31, 2014

Anybody have any profile shape drawings for a snow plow blade. Thought I'd have the web/ribs NC plasma cut and then roll a blade out of 10 gauge. Put it on a quick-tach plate for the FEL. Any suggestion appreciated as well.

Travelover · Jan 31, 2014

I'd build it so it pivots forward with a trip spring. Otherwise you can rack the FEL if you hit an immovable object.

ovrszd · Jan 31, 2014

If building specifically for snow, it would have shoes to run on and would have sides like a Box Blade. Without sides or the ability to angle I think you are gonna be disappointed in it's productivity. Without shoes you will struggle to keep it from gouging, especially if the ground isn't frozen.

Here's a good example. Even has a blade across the top/front edge to use for back dragging.

ANBO Attachments -Site Plow Extreme

shaley · Jan 31, 2014

I thought I'd use a double acting cylinder from the rear remotes for angle. Use a set of Meyer skid shoes for height on parking lots and roads. I'll make it trip just like the truck mounted units. Isn't there an optimum shape for the blade curature so it will toss snow to the side?

s219 · Jan 31, 2014

All the plows I have seen appear to have a constant radius curve shape. I'd have to measure an actual plow to figure out the radius of curvature though. That's probably your best bet -- find a plow and measure it up.

Sportsman762 · Feb 2, 2014

Most of the blades I see are a consistent radius. However the high speed blades used on the interstate and at airports have a smaller radius at the top to help throw the snow. Also you could design the plow trip two ways. Most light duty plows the whole blade trips, however on some of the high end plows only the edge of the blade trips. This allows you to keep pushing snow until you are over the obstacle (manhole) without dumping your load.

if you decide to make the blade a standard trip, I would consider purchasing a used snow blade of your desired width and using it as a bases for your snow plow build. You could add additional ribs, and build a custom turn table for it while still being money ahead.

Here is a company that makes several variations of snow plows and should help get your creative juices flowing.
https://www.wausau-everest.com/markets/municipal-equipment/reversible-snowplows1

ovrszd · Feb 2, 2014

I spent some time on google and couldn't find a "standard" curvature formula for a blade. Lot of discussion about use and speed. The MODOT trucks around here have blades with a pretty substantial curvature designed into their blades. They also have a hinged thick rubber shield hanging across the top of the blade to keep snow dust from blurring their vision.

I've got an old Meyer blade that doesn't have much curvature, sorry it's not here to take a photo. I've also got a front blade for my JD2210, it doesn't have much curvature either. The JD road grader I run has a 27" high moldboard with a substantial curvature. It works great pushing snow at 15-18 mph with little snow coming over the top unless in very deep snow.

I would agree with Sportsman762, you can probably buy a used snow blade and rebuild it cheaper than starting from scratch. But I also understand the desire to do it yourself.

I'll try to find some pics of blades I'm familiar with for reference.

Hivoltage98 · Feb 2, 2014

I bought a used Meyers plow for 150$ and am currently in the process of connecting it to the hydraulics on the tractor. I bought rebuild kits for the angle cylinders and just rebuilt them. I am using a winch for up and down right now but have a cylinder setup I'm planning to implement soon as soon as all the parts come in.

shaley · Feb 3, 2014

That's part of the problem. We aren't in the snow belt so anything used is still about $2000. Maybe you can tell me how far the trip pivot is above the bottom of the cutting edge. I'm using about 4" in my design so far.

ovrszd · Feb 3, 2014

Wish I had my old blade here. I think it's closer to 6". Your frame is going to be running at a height similar to that pivot point. At 4" your frame is going to be awfully low to the ground??

For example, the pivot pins on my little 54" John Deere front blade is 5" above the cutting edge.

Rustyiron · Feb 6, 2014

It sounds like you're pretty handy with fab work, my :2cents: I'd make a truck type frame mount. Watching how the use of my 102" Snow Wolf blade on my M9540 makes the loader arms move sideways worries me. I do not like the reaction to the plowing forces I can see on my loader arms. I will be building a frame hitch somewhere just in front of the front axle and make a more conventional truck like hitch. Until then I plow with the skid loader, it plows with the loader arms down rested against the chassis, nestled between some "stops" that will not allow the side loading to be transmitted to the arms. Another drawback to a (tractor) loader mounted blade is steering. A loader mounted blade is about as far in front of your front axle as the rear is away from your front, leaving a great leverage advantage against your tractors steering effort. Now this might not be a problem with lighter or smaller snows with straight plowing runs, but in a heavy wet or deep snow that is not straight, you'll be on your brake pedals to try to get any steering. Even with my ice chains on I can have trouble. (see picture)

I like the Fisher brand snow plows with their tripping action, only the cutting edge trips and the tripping "event" is much less violent than the whole blade slapping forward, then returning under high spring forces. The Fisher and some others have a sharper angle of attack on the snow, that is the blade is back at maybe 75-80 degee where some, especially the Meyer is close to "square" or 90* to the ground. It seems to peel up packed or driven on snow much better. One thing to consider in your design is your cutting edge. I have made my own with 5/8" x 6" steel and blown the mounting holes with the torch. They wore pretty fast, so I would take a trip to your local heavy equipment dealer, snowplow dlr. etc. to see what they have available for use as your cutting edge, eventually you will need to replace it. They should be a source for an adjustable skid shoe as well.
When I build something like this, I usually gather my critical parts and "fit" the rest of the design around these items as they are basically fixed points. I'll go measure my plow for total height, the deepest measurement at the arc of the radius from a staight line formed by the cutting edge and the top, and the hinge height for the trip edge. The SnowWolf plow "tripps" like a Fisher blade. I'll post them here fri. night.

camshawn · Feb 6, 2014

Shaley
My blade has a 24 inch radius and is about 24 inches high with the cutting edge. The hinge is about 4"" above the bottom. The whole blade is hinged and uses 2 snowplow springs to keep it upright. I can post a couple of pictures if you would like.
Cam

camshawn · Feb 8, 2014

I took a few pictures and made a measurement of my old blade. It is 72 inches wide and 24 inches high by 1/4" thick with a 1/4 x 2 cutting edge. I have changed the cutting edge only once in 25 years and find now that it is worn almost to nothing. The blade is offset 6" to the right to move snow off to the downhill sideof the driveway. The pivot for the trip is about 8" above the cutting edge when it is not worn away. The raise/lower pivot on the mount on my old Yanmar tractor is also about 8" above grade when all is sitting level. I raised the blade by using a chain up to the cross piece on the bucket frame, the bucket is above the blade when using the blade.
This old blade has served me well. On the little 15 hp Yanmar, with the blade turned 30 deg and chains on the rear will move 6" of slush with no problems if I could get up a little speed. 24" of dry powder was easy going down hill and about another 100' on the flat before needing to turn to the right to unload the blade.

I hope that this description helps with your design, Cam

deerseeker001 · Feb 8, 2014

I went to junkyard and bought a section of boiler plate that has the natural curve then welded mounting plates on it and then bolted cutting edge on bottom.i went to the township and got a old cutting edge from town grader.i plowed snow with that many years.

Bison · Feb 9, 2014

Here is a 10' wide snow plow i build 10 years ago. It is solid build and can handle lots of abuse.
The blade is cut from a section of 3' dia 3/8" thick pipe.
It has hydr angle and in the straight dozer position it can be turned over so the top of the bale is on the ground for scraping snow back from doors and buildings.
It has 2 skid plates as well to keep the cutting edge 1/2" from the ground.
I have build quick attach adapters to be able to put it on my tractor front end loader, a track or skid steer and an wheel loader

camshawn · Feb 9, 2014

Bison
Could you please post some pictures of the back side of your blade? I am building a new blade for my new tractor and am looking for ideas. So far just gathering pieces as I find them.
Thanks, Cam

Bison · Feb 10, 2014

camshawn said:
Bison
Could you please post some pictures of the back side of your blade? I am building a new blade for my new tractor and am looking for ideas. So far just gathering pieces as I find them.
Thanks, Cam

got this one,I can make a couple more if you want

camshawn · Feb 10, 2014

Thanks Bison. That is an elegant way to do the angle adjustment.
No snow this morning down in the lower Fraser Valley, just a skiff last night that is now rain. It warmed up early enough that it is not freezing rain. This will give me more time to build a blade for the new tractor.
Cam