Help with top link adjustment for rotary cutter.

[beenthere]

Adding a long hyd cylinder to the deck in place of either my chains or the straps would allow you to droop the rear of the deck further and still pick it up. With your rear remotes, you could then position the control valve in float to allow the rear of the deck to follow the ground. I'd think, anyway.
Can't think of anything else that would work on the negative slope. Gets hairy to back up to a slope like that. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[beenthere]

Adding a long hyd cylinder to the deck in place of either my chains or the straps would allow you to droop the rear of the deck further and still pick it up. With your rear remotes, you could then position the control valve in float to allow the rear of the deck to follow the ground. I'd think, anyway.
Can't think of anything else that would work on the negative slope. Gets hairy to back up to a slope like that. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[KiotiJohn]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( All you need to completely float a deck is three points of ground contact. )</font>
Joe, I've looked at this picture several times now, and I finally decided that I really wouldn't want to modify my hog with those front gauge wheels. I wouldn't be able to drop the front all the way down as I often need/want to do. When I'm cutting a ditch bank, back down into it, I like to then drop the mower all the way down and really cut thing close. Those wheels would get in the way of that for me. I can think of a few other situations where I would want to lower it all the way down.
John

 

[KiotiJohn]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( All you need to completely float a deck is three points of ground contact. )</font>
Joe, I've looked at this picture several times now, and I finally decided that I really wouldn't want to modify my hog with those front gauge wheels. I wouldn't be able to drop the front all the way down as I often need/want to do. When I'm cutting a ditch bank, back down into it, I like to then drop the mower all the way down and really cut thing close. Those wheels would get in the way of that for me. I can think of a few other situations where I would want to lower it all the way down.
John

 

[Highbeam]

That mower was not mine but an example of a poor top link structure design that I needed to remove for another project. The photo shows that front gauge wheels can be done and one way to do it. I don't even use chain guards on my hog. I like the implementation of check chains on that NH though.

With position control on the 3ph, the only reason I can see for check chains is so that you could raise the hog off of a surprise stump or rock and then put it back down to the same height without depending on that handy set screw.

 

[Highbeam]

That mower was not mine but an example of a poor top link structure design that I needed to remove for another project. The photo shows that front gauge wheels can be done and one way to do it. I don't even use chain guards on my hog. I like the implementation of check chains on that NH though.

With position control on the 3ph, the only reason I can see for check chains is so that you could raise the hog off of a surprise stump or rock and then put it back down to the same height without depending on that handy set screw.

 

[KiotiJohn]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( With position control on the 3ph, the only reason I can see for check chains is so that you could raise the hog off of a surprise stump or rock and then put it back down to the same height without depending on that handy set screw.)</font>
Yeah, the chains are really handy for older style hitches without position control and those that have become droopers and don't stay up well.

With position control, I just set my hog to the number on the lever guide that I know gives me the cut I want for a particular property, and if I hit something, I raise it quickly and then put it back to that number. Works great for me.

John

 

[KiotiJohn]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( With position control on the 3ph, the only reason I can see for check chains is so that you could raise the hog off of a surprise stump or rock and then put it back down to the same height without depending on that handy set screw.)</font>
Yeah, the chains are really handy for older style hitches without position control and those that have become droopers and don't stay up well.

With position control, I just set my hog to the number on the lever guide that I know gives me the cut I want for a particular property, and if I hit something, I raise it quickly and then put it back to that number. Works great for me.

John

 

[normde2001]

"With position control on the 3ph, the only reason I can see for check chains is so that you could raise the hog off of a surprise stump or rock and then put it back down to the same height without depending on that handy set screw."

All the check chains do is save wear and tear on the 3ph. The chains take the load rather than the hydraulics, a pretty good $35 investment, I think.

 

[normde2001]

"With position control on the 3ph, the only reason I can see for check chains is so that you could raise the hog off of a surprise stump or rock and then put it back down to the same height without depending on that handy set screw."

All the check chains do is save wear and tear on the 3ph. The chains take the load rather than the hydraulics, a pretty good $35 investment, I think.