Hoisting an I-beam …
- Thread starter Fungus
- Start date
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Thought I would give everyone an update on my beam project.
Had a few nice days so I was able to get it painted. Got all the walls framed and I’m now working on the roof.
Everything is coming together pretty nicely, but I’m torn about what siding to use. At first I was going to use HardiPlank but I’m swinging more towards T-11 now. After reading about all the issues with HardiPlank it seems easier to use the T-11 and have to paint it more often.
Had a few nice days so I was able to get it painted. Got all the walls framed and I’m now working on the roof.
Everything is coming together pretty nicely, but I’m torn about what siding to use. At first I was going to use HardiPlank but I’m swinging more towards T-11 now. After reading about all the issues with HardiPlank it seems easier to use the T-11 and have to paint it more often.
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jd2210va
Bronze Member
Fungus - Looking Good! This has been interesting to watch the development of your project/hoist methodology. Are you building this from purchased plans or plans of your own? I'd be interested in those plans if they are available some where.
I have T-111 on two outbuildings which has held up really well with minimal maintenance but don't have any experience with Hardiplank.
I have T-111 on two outbuildings which has held up really well with minimal maintenance but don't have any experience with Hardiplank.
em14
Platinum Member
What's wrong with the Hardie Plank / Board? I have Hardie plank on three buildings ... The oldest is 6 years with no signs of problems.
Leo
Leo
jd2210va
Thanks, the design is my own. I basically wanted a 34’ X 24’ garage for vehicles only. The I-beam eliminates all the truss clutter, provides a nice lifting point, and was about the same cost – at least with me doing all the labor.
Since I’m an engineer type I simply calculated the required strength necessary to support my dead & live loads, plus a little extra for lifting things. As it turns out a W18X35 was lighter, stronger, and cheaper than going with a W12. Spanning 34’ with snow loads get pretty tough.
em14
Didn’t say anything is wrong with it, just issues or pros & cons. My T111 siding on the house is still doing well after 25 years. I’m just reconsidering my choices.
Thanks, the design is my own. I basically wanted a 34’ X 24’ garage for vehicles only. The I-beam eliminates all the truss clutter, provides a nice lifting point, and was about the same cost – at least with me doing all the labor.
Since I’m an engineer type I simply calculated the required strength necessary to support my dead & live loads, plus a little extra for lifting things. As it turns out a W18X35 was lighter, stronger, and cheaper than going with a W12. Spanning 34’ with snow loads get pretty tough.
em14
Didn’t say anything is wrong with it, just issues or pros & cons. My T111 siding on the house is still doing well after 25 years. I’m just reconsidering my choices.
I keep forgetting that things are different in the rest of the country than they are here in South Florida, but when I read that you were considering T111 instead of HardiPlank, a horrible shudder went through my spine. Down here, T111 is good for about 20 years, max, and less than that on the "weather" wall. I just got through re-siding a 24' x 50' commercial building with HardiPlank over top the T111, and the South wall had already been replaced about 10 years ago. My daughter's house has also had HardiPlank installed over the often-patched T111, and my son's rental house has had the bottom 30" of the T111 replaced with new T111 all around the house, and a cedar 1"x 8" trim board installed to cover the joint. Most of the T111 houses around here have been similarly patched or re-sided, often with HardiPlank but also with aluminum siding, vinyl siding, or stucco on wire mesh. Anything but the dreaded T111!
My current house does have some T111 on the back porch, but it's cedar T111, at least 50% more money, and doesn't rot like the pine T111.
I'd really be interested in what issues or Cons you have heard about HardiPlank; it's all Pros so far, with me. It's warranted for 50 years of exterior use, it doesn't rot, it doesn't attract termites, it won't burn and it takes paint beautifully. The only thing I've found wrong is that cutting it with a saw creates a lot of fine dust, but we used so much of it, I bought one of the Snapper electric shears for cutting it.
My current house does have some T111 on the back porch, but it's cedar T111, at least 50% more money, and doesn't rot like the pine T111.
I'd really be interested in what issues or Cons you have heard about HardiPlank; it's all Pros so far, with me. It's warranted for 50 years of exterior use, it doesn't rot, it doesn't attract termites, it won't burn and it takes paint beautifully. The only thing I've found wrong is that cutting it with a saw creates a lot of fine dust, but we used so much of it, I bought one of the Snapper electric shears for cutting it.
btolle
Platinum Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Are you building this from purchased plans or plans of your own? I'd be interested in those plans if they are available some where.)</font>
When I built my 28 X 32 garage I found a set of plans at Sutherland Lumber Co. (seem to have stores in the Soutwest US) for $10. They included all details as well as a complete bill of materials.
I moved the wide door from where they showed it on a end wall to the end wall and made it 18' wide instead of 16' but it was not hard to figure the modifications and really didn't change the bill of materials very much at all. BTW, the difference in price between a 16' and an 18' door was about $50 and it is a lot easier to get through.
Look around at your local building stores for a rack of basic plans.
Search the Internet for garage plans if you can't find something at the local stores.
Bill Tolle
When I built my 28 X 32 garage I found a set of plans at Sutherland Lumber Co. (seem to have stores in the Soutwest US) for $10. They included all details as well as a complete bill of materials.
I moved the wide door from where they showed it on a end wall to the end wall and made it 18' wide instead of 16' but it was not hard to figure the modifications and really didn't change the bill of materials very much at all. BTW, the difference in price between a 16' and an 18' door was about $50 and it is a lot easier to get through.
Look around at your local building stores for a rack of basic plans.
Search the Internet for garage plans if you can't find something at the local stores.
Bill Tolle
AndyM
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<font color="blue"> I'd really be interested in what issues or Cons you have heard about HardiPlank; it's all Pros so far, with me. It's warranted for 50 years of exterior use, it doesn't rot, it doesn't attract termites, it won't burn and it takes paint beautifully. The only thing I've found wrong is that cutting it with a saw creates a lot of fine dust, but we used so much of it, I bought one of the Snapper electric shears for cutting it.
</font>
Don, I'm really interested in the disadvantages of HardiPlank also. Since not everyone who could potentially comment on this might not read this thread, I'm going to start a new thread on HardiPlank.
</font>
Don, I'm really interested in the disadvantages of HardiPlank also. Since not everyone who could potentially comment on this might not read this thread, I'm going to start a new thread on HardiPlank.
OkeeDon
Keep in mind I’ve never used HardiPlank so the only thing I know about it is through reading.
Some of the “Cons” I’ve read about are caulking, nailing, dust if sawing, and telegraphing any irregularity through from the framing. There is a lot of talk about how it can either look really good or bad depending on the install. Maybe I’m overreacting to it all but I know where I stand when it comes to a wood product.
While at the store today I pickup a piece of HardiPlank so I can test it out – nailing, cutting, etc. The fellow at the store suggested that installing HardiPlank without external sheathing might not be good in that it would be pretty flimsy or easy to break through. Hardie suggest it can be installed on 16”OC framing but now that I think about it, well maybe its not a good idea.
In my situation I decided to sheath the insides to cover up all the framing and make for clean look. What ever I decide to put on the outside need to go directly on the framing. Has anyone ever done this with HardiPlank?
Thanks
Keep in mind I’ve never used HardiPlank so the only thing I know about it is through reading.
Some of the “Cons” I’ve read about are caulking, nailing, dust if sawing, and telegraphing any irregularity through from the framing. There is a lot of talk about how it can either look really good or bad depending on the install. Maybe I’m overreacting to it all but I know where I stand when it comes to a wood product.
While at the store today I pickup a piece of HardiPlank so I can test it out – nailing, cutting, etc. The fellow at the store suggested that installing HardiPlank without external sheathing might not be good in that it would be pretty flimsy or easy to break through. Hardie suggest it can be installed on 16”OC framing but now that I think about it, well maybe its not a good idea.
In my situation I decided to sheath the insides to cover up all the framing and make for clean look. What ever I decide to put on the outside need to go directly on the framing. Has anyone ever done this with HardiPlank?
Thanks
