Homemade tractor

[Boganism]

So, due to unforseen expenses,the whole idea of buying a tractor is un-feasable (seriously why are all the cheap tractors useless for running tillers where I am???)

I've decided to build my own instead, seeing as it'll be similar cost and hopefully (slightly) more useful, but before I start I just wanted to ask around and find out some questions


1. What would you recommend to use as the frame? I can't buy an old pickup (thankyou Australia for keeping value on them) so I'm kinda SOL, I was thinking of finding cheap/scrap metal and welding it as much as I can and hoping for the best, but I don't actually know how strong it'll be,or lengthening the mower frame and reinforcing it

2. What type of transmission is best? I have an old lawnmower (cub cadet lt1042) that I was planning to steal the hydrostat off, run a 2:1 reduction and use that for pulling, but I'm worried about it not just exploding.

3. What engines? I'm thinking of a smallish lawnmower engine, such as the one off the cub cadet and plonking it straight on (nearly) the transmission, but others have said to use a hydraulic system. So which is best?


4. Pto, would it be possible? I was hoping of salvaging 1 or 2 old lawnmower engines,( around 15-20hp each) running them in tandem with the belts driving to a rear mounted pto ( the plans make more sense in my head i promise) but I've read alot of issues with gas engines just not having power, so would it be worth it finding either a car engine,going hydraulics again, or even electric motor?


5. Last one thankfully, am I a moron for this, or would it be somewhat sensible to try? This projects more for fun but I do want to atleast get some use out of it. I was hoping to atleast still use the deck and maybe run a plow or rototiller off the backend.

 

[scootr]

Start searching you tube for homemade tractor videos. GL.

 

[Carl_NH]

Better off finding a used up non running tractor to fix up, or since you are familiar with Cub cadets look for an older GT (garden tractor) series (1800 2100 series from 1990 vintage) and build up from there. They have a full frame and solid transmission.

 

[rScotty]

If you can build it yourself you can fix up a non-running tractor that you can buy for less than the metal to make one.
And that way you get all the R&D for free.

Fix an old one. Cheaper, faster, better, ecological - and make your own implements for it.

 

[etpm]

The other day I was looking at a home made wheeled excavator or backhoe. It had a pretty long reach, could probably dig a 14 foot deep trench. It powered by a big straight 6 gasoline engine. The frame was old I-beams. It had a pretty big truck rear axle used as the drive and it was at the hoe end. The steering wheels were at the back, like a forklift or a backhoe. The steering was hydraulic, using hydraulic cylinders. There were at least two hydraulic pumps. The thing was really crude looking and it was obvious that much, if not all, of the steel used was used. There were all sorts of extra holes, evidence of weldments that had been burned off, that kind of thing. I can't imagine how many hours it must have taken to put the thing together. I suppose if I had no money, lots of time, and could get the parts for scrap prices, it might be worth it to build something like it but for what it did it seems it would be cheaper and much faster to at least start with a basic machine that could be repaired. That way stuff like steering and the drive wheels would already be in place, and be in the right place.
Eric

 

[scootr]

The sky is the limit - lol

 

[Boganism]

Better off finding a used up non running tractor to fix up, or since you are familiar with Cub cadets look for an older GT (garden tractor) series (1800 2100 series from 1990 vintage) and build up from there. They have a full frame and solid transmission.

Sadly in Australia, to get a non running tractor (that can be used with a tiller) Is atleast 3-4000, and to get one capable of mowing (older b series) ranges from 6-11000, and even the 11K ones are from early 2000. And older cub cadet s just don't exist here, that's the problem with the market here, is that old stuff is still expensive, and it either doesn't exist, or someone wants alot of money, or in my case it's a 4 day drive

 

[Boganism]

If you can build it yourself you can fix up a non-running tractor that you can buy for less than the metal to make one.
And that way you get all the R&D for free.

Fix an old one. Cheaper, faster, better, ecological - and make your own implements for it.

Only problem, finding an old one that can work a tiller (that isn't 80hp) is 3-4000+ and finding one that can use a midmount, or just a hydrostatic is 6-10000. For some reason our prices are really really high compared to America's, so if I got one that I'd want to use, I'd Be atleast 8-10000 dollars down

 

[etpm]

What size tiller do you need to work? My Yanmar YM2310 tractor will easily work a 5 foot wide tiller. The tractor is a 23HP tractor and I use 540 RPM for the tiller. It works great. The tractor has more than enough power for the tiller. I looked at the Cub lt1042 you mentioned and there is no way I would use the transmission from it to move a tractor that could power a 5 foot wide tiller. So, how about you tell us all what size tiller you want to power and drag around? That would really help the folks here to give you meaningful advice. BTW, you mentioned using two lawn mower engines in tandem. I think this would be a big mistake. Furthermore, the two engines you were considering would be about 40 HP combined. That's way more HP than a tiller that could be moved with the Cub transmission would use.
Eric

 

[davedj1]

Do an internet search of doodle bugs, go from there, they used, in some cases, dual transmissions. If you get lucky you may find a four wheel drive unit with a pto on it to run the tiller.
Do you already have the tiller?
If you do you may consider just adding it's own power plant and just towing it with your car? Just a thought.

 

[Norm W]

I built a tractor to mount a backhoe attachment. I started with a VW Rabbit engine mounted North/South instead of East/west, a GM 4 speed transmission, a '54 truck front end and a Detroit Locker full floating rear axle. The frame was channel iron. Used it for 20 years with the Diesel engine. Old age took that out, so I switched to a Suzuki three cylinder gas engine. It has power steering, a front dirt blade and a PTO driven backhoe. I didn't think to get the "Brain Box" for the Suzuki, so it has a VW bug carb and a GM electronic modual and a Suzuki coil.

 

[bcp]

Do an internet search of doodle bugs, go from there, they used, in some cases, dual transmissions. If you get lucky you may find a four wheel drive unit with a pto on it to run the tiller.

Beat me to it:

doodlebug tractor - Google Search

Bruce

 

[4570Man]

$4,000 for a non running tractor even if the engine required replacement would be a bargain compared to trying to build one to work even 1/2 way decent.

 

[Boganism]

$4,000 for a non running tractor even if the engine required replacement would be a bargain compared to trying to build one to work even 1/2 way decent.

Somehow,and don't ask my how,but if my maths right it's actually cheaper to build (when factoring in parts) a full rebuild for something like a tea20 is 1-2K, so your in 6K, whereas the homemade would be at most 5K, hence why I wanted to do it. Our prices really are just different

 

[DaBear3428]

Somehow,and don't ask my how,but if my maths right it's actually cheaper to build (when factoring in parts) a full rebuild for something like a tea20 is 1-2K, so your in 6K, whereas the homemade would be at most 5K, hence why I wanted to do it. Our prices really are just different

if you have access to the salvage parts and the tools, have the skills and have the time go for it but you are looking at 500 hrs to do it i would find a gig and do the 500 hrs then take your pay and buy a used tractor. if you have the skills to pull the build off you should be getting enough to buy a good used tractor.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

What size tiller do you need to work? My Yanmar YM2310 tractor will easily work a 5 foot wide tiller. The tractor is a 23HP tractor and I use 540 RPM for the tiller. It works great. The tractor has more than enough power for the tiller. I looked at the Cub lt1042 you mentioned and there is no way I would use the transmission from it to move a tractor that could power a 5 foot wide tiller. So, how about you tell us all what size tiller you want to power and drag around? That would really help the folks here to give you meaningful advice. BTW, you mentioned using two lawn mower engines in tandem. I think this would be a big mistake. Furthermore, the two engines you were considering would be about 40 HP combined. That's way more HP than a tiller that could be moved with the Cub transmission would use.
Eric

They sell pull behind tillers with an engine on them.

 

[scootr]

First I have to build a car to go to the salvage yard with and get parts to make the tractor.

 

[jjeff]

Wonder if you can find a couple of junk 4wd mini trucks fairly cheap, and use them for a starting point my knowledge is limited of them but I believe certain versions already had a factory pto setup. If they are more available in your corner of the world of course.

 

[Vigo327]

Maybe build a barge instead and float over to where that guy Marty T on youtube gets all his ‘abandoned’ equipment.

But in all seriousness, i think the idea is feasible but not pragmatic in the same way that others have said, which is that if you have the talents to pull it off you could sell the talents for enough to buy the tractor in the first place, and it would probably be a less frustrating process. However.. some people have the “itch” to do things like this just to prove a point to themselves or possibly ‘the world’ and it’s really all about getting rid of the itch as much as it is about making sense, and i.. TOTALLY understand and relate to that!

As far as a mower hydrostatic trans.. tilling does not require a lot of pulling power. If that was ALL you did, and the trans was geared down a bunch and not supporting the axle weight (ie sprocketed to a stronger axle) it might work, but longevity is unknown. It would not push a heavy machine up a hill at all, and it would require implementing some totally separate brakes and not relying on the ‘hydrostatic braking effect’ or the tiny disc brake like you would on a 600lb riding mower. I think in general it is FAR more practical to use a small car as a starting point for this, and power the ‘pto’ with an entirely separate small engine as you mentioned. 4wd would be nice but not necessary, especially for tilling. Once you forego any thoughts of high speed crashworthiness or road legality, all kinds of cars are fairly simple to dump about half the weight off it and weld just about anything you want to the end that doesnt have the engine in it.

Norm W… that is AWESOME!!

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

I have built and been part of building several homemade tractors. One was a 34 horse 4 cyl Wisconsin. Two 4 speed transmissions behind it. Eaton 3/4 ton rear end. 20 inch two ton truck wheels on rear. PTO on front trans. Would run a 5 ft bush hog and cut thick shoulder high grass.

One used a Mazda engine transmission, then truck 4 spd. 9 inch Ford rear. Makes a big ole garden with it for 30 plus years with it.

First one I had a David Bradley frame. Only steering wheel and front end. Gear box was gone because it was used to make a walk behind tractor. We have several of them things. But anyway, I used two 3 speed trans, a Studebaker rear narrowed. That was my high school welding class project. Drove it on the trailer. My older cousin still uses it. Made it almost 40 years ago.

I been in that bidness a while.