hopefully not a really stupid question

[BlackRaptor]

I have both my 24" and 18" bars now and both have the low kickback safety chains. I was wondering if anyone has modified their chains so they pluge cut better. I'm guessing those little guides in front of the cutting teeth are that make it a safety chain. If I'm off in left field and need to just repurchase my chains just say the word but wanted to avoid replacing brand new chains.
Thanks!

 

[xyz123]

Yes guys cut the safety bumper down with a dremel or grinder type tool.

 

[Coyote machine]

Nice looking tractor. Looks brand new?
As far as modifying safety chains, assuming for a moment you haven't already used them, I'd suggest exchanging them for different chains, rather than trying to modify them. Plunge cutting is dangerous, which is why safety chains are less effective at it due to increased chance of kickback.
Unless you are a pro with proper training, reduced kickback chain is what you should be using.

 

[Ed of all trades]

Unless you are a pro with proper training, reduced kickback chain is what you should be using.[/QUOTE]

I agree with Coyote Machine a chainsaw is one of the most dangerous tools there is and if you are new to them keep the low kickback chains.

 

[greasemonkeyok]

If you do modify the chain, do youeself a favor and purchase a pair of chainsaw chaps. Maybe even get a pair even if you don't modify the chain.

I have a pair of Labonvilles, reported to be the best. But I don't have enough experience with other brands to say one way or the other.

A Weyerhaeuser VP told me they now probibit the possession of any chainsaw on their property because of the danger. All their logging is done with heavy equipment.

 

[El Wood]

I was using Stihl's green low kick back safety chain for several years. I decided it was time to get a few new chains so I stepped up to the yellow chain which is more aggressive. I was surprised at the difference. Cuts like butter... I have a 16" bar saw and 20" bar pro saw.

 

[BlackRaptor]

Thanks guys.
I would not call my self a pro nor would I say I am new either. I am 30 been cutting since I was 15. Started on an Olympic 12inch. Than moved to a stihl 010 at 16 and been using 18 and 20" saws since.
So I want to avoid cutting my leg off but would like a more aggressive cut, I need chaps I have the helmet face guard and steel boots so far.
Coyote thanks in the picture it was new just got pulled off the semi from the ga plant.

 

[RandyT]

I have had old chainsaw operators tell me that, you are not an expert until a saw gets you. I have teeth marks in my left elbow, from an accident.

Had an old mcculloch 110, you know one of the top handle saws. was cutting a 4 inch tree, that had got bent under the tree I felled. Was using the end of the bar, but not the tip, to slowly relieve tension on the tree. The tree should of sprang up, but instead came toward me, jerked the saw out of my hands, threw me backwards, the bar tip swung past my face, cutting my left elbow, because the saw had thrown my arms up, continued to swing around, cutting a 6 inch gash in my coveralls, on my left thigh, about halfway between my knee and the hip, and I landed on my back about 10 feet from where I was originally standing.

 

[Coyote machine]

I have had old chainsaw operators tell me that, you are not an expert until a saw gets you. I have teeth marks in my left elbow, from an accident.

Had an old mcculloch 110, you know one of the top handle saws. was cutting a 4 inch tree, that had got bent under the tree I felled. Was using the end of the bar, but not the tip, to slowly relieve tension on the tree. The tree should of sprang up, but instead came toward me, jerked the saw out of my hands, threw me backwards, the bar tip swung past my face, cutting my left elbow, because the saw had thrown my arms up, continued to swing around, cutting a 6 inch gash in my coveralls, on my left thigh, about halfway between my knee and the hip, and I landed on my back about 10 feet from where I was originally standing.

Here is a perfect example of why those who don't have proper training should not be using a chainsaw to do jobs like the one described above. A tree under tension is even more dangerous than regular cutting and takes specialized knowledge, including and foremost to not allow oneself to be in the situation in the first place by removing all surrounding trees that could pose a problem prior to cutting a larger tree.

The operator is lucky the chain didn't cut his leg deeply enough to bleed out. That happens way too often and due to shock setting in and rescue often being too far and too late to the scene.
As far as being an expert as a result of being bitten by a chainsaw, that is the most ridiculous thing I've heard in a long time.

Chaps provide another level of protection BUT they are not a panacea for every potential leg cut situation. Do NOT rely on them to save your *s$

 

[vwnotrunning]

Don't mean to be preaching to the choir - but if you ever let friends or relatives borrow the saw consider their capabilities. Some of us, or at least me seldom lend the my saws without an operator!

Brian

 

[s219]

OP, unless you know what you are grinding off, I'd say go buy a proper chain instead of modifying it yourself.

I can remember more than one newbie at the arboristsite forum grinding off the depth rakers, which are not related to the safety function at all, but are used to control the cut. If you take off the depth rakers, which are right in front of the cutter edge on the cutter link, then you will ruin the chain -- it would become wildly uncontrollable.

On some brands/types of chain, you can grind of the safety humps. But on others, you cannot. For example, on Stihl green chain, the safety hump is in parallel with the depth raker, so you can't get rid of the humps without grinding on the depth rakers.

 

[s219]

I was using Stihl's green low kick back safety chain for several years. I decided it was time to get a few new chains so I stepped up to the yellow chain which is more aggressive. I was surprised at the difference. Cuts like butter... I have a 16" bar saw and 20" bar pro saw.


View attachment 310182




View attachment 310181

Unless you are plunge cutting at the tip, the green and yellow chains of the same cutter type will cut the same along the length of the bar.

More likely, you changed from green semi-chisel (RM) to yellow full-chisel (RS). You can get both types in green or yellow, and they will cut the same along the length of the bar. All of Stihl's saws that run .325 would have shipped with green RM chain, but you're showing that the new chain is RS in the picture. So the change from RM to RS is the big factor here, and the green/yellow distinction only matters for plunge cuts and overall safety.

Full-chisel does cut better when sharp, but it dulls much more quickly so it's only appropriate for clean wood and when you can keep it sharpened. I file my full-chisel chain at least 3-4 times more than semi-chisel in a given day of cutting.

 

[ghenges]

I have both my 24" and 18" bars now and both have the low kickback safety chains. I was wondering if anyone has modified their chains so they pluge cut better. I'm guessing those little guides in front of the cutting teeth are that make it a safety chain. If I'm off in left field and need to just repurchase my chains just say the word but wanted to avoid replacing brand new chains.
Thanks!

I assume you are an intelligent person so I won't approach you as an idiot --
If you are aware of the kickback danger go ahead and grind the safety nubs off.

Don't let all the "war stories" and the psuedo-Paul Bunyan types frighten you. Only you can determine your level of expertise.

Read the thread linked below, it will explain in clearer terms safety chains versus non-safety chains.
A MORE AGGRESSIVE CHAIN

 

[BlackRaptor]

Thanks everyone. And trust me I've seen the damage saws can cause and have had
a few very close calls and respect the danger and power the saw has.

Also never lend saws to people is my rule. For me if you don't own one chances are you haven't used one enough to be safe and experienced. So I come with the saw or they can go rent a little electric chainsaw. And I don't have to worry.

 

[TreePointer]

Effective plunge/bore cutting is achieved with both a pro (not low kickback) chain and a pro (not low kickback) bar. I do it with low kickback bars (like a Stihl E), but I prefer a standard round tip (Stihl ES) for plunge cutting.

When first learning to bore cut I also recommend a forestry helmet (helmet + face shield) for kickback protection. Heck, it's best to learn from an experienced sawyer who can demonstrate this in person.