How do you chain down YOUR tractor?

Poopdeck Pappy · Jul 30, 2015

oldballs said:
My concern with me using the straps (B2620 Kubota) is that I like to weave the strap over/under/over the rear axle. This make and excellent place to locate the strap. But, after mowing for a couple hours in this 90 degree + heat, the rear axle/transmission is very hot. I wonder how that might effect the strength of the strap.???

I usually take a brake at the end of this mowing chore to let it cool down a bit. But it is still hot. The front axle doesn't get that hot where I use the same over/under/over placement.
Cheers to all this morning.............it's going to be about 95 degrees again today.
Mike

Some carpet scraps should ease that concern somewhat.

I don't haul my big tractor, but when I haul one of my Kubota BX tractors I use four 10,000 pound ratchet straps and four 10,000 pound axle straps. The axle straps are REALLY handy. Here's a link to them.

SmartStraps Axle Strap — 31in.L x 2in.W, 10,000-Lb. Capacity, Black, Model# 856 | Auto Lock Buckle Tie-Down Straps| Northern Tool + Equipment

swines · Jul 31, 2015

I don't haul my big tractor, but when I haul one of my Kubota BX tractors I use four 10,000 pound ratchet straps and four 10,000 pound axle straps. The axle straps are REALLY handy. Here's a link to them.

You do understand that the 10,000 pounds is the breaking strength and not the working load limit (WLL)? The WLL on a single thickness strap is generally 3,333 lbs. If you compare the WLL of those straps to lifting straps you'd see the construction of the lifting straps is 2-3 layers (depending on the lift rating) in order to get the lift rating.

When I put the tractor on the trailer, I first fully apply the parking brake to ensure it will not roll. I use Grade 70, 5/16 chain on my small John Deere (3320). I have individual chains on the left and right side of the rear axle. The chains have a protective cover so they don't scratch the paint on the axles. I have rings through the front of the frame on each side and use chains on each side crossed so they go over the bucket. That ties down both the tractor and the bucket. Depending upon the implement on the tractor, I either use a chain or a 3,330 WLL tie down strap on the implement. I have a variety of tie-down points on the trailer consisting of D-rings welded to the trailer frame.

oldballs · Jul 31, 2015

Thanks, Pappy. That's a product that might work into my method. Looks like I would need four axle straps and four ratchets with a short strap to reach each connection. And also, that protective cover would help with the heat as well as the abrasion that occurs when I weave one strap over/under/over.

I may see if a bolt on set of D-rings would work on the front frame of my B2620.

Cheers,
Mike

Poopdeck Pappy · Aug 1, 2015

swines said:
You do understand that the 10,000 pounds is the breaking strength and not the working load limit (WLL)? The WLL on a single thickness strap is generally 3,333 lbs. If you compare the WLL of those straps to lifting straps you'd see the construction of the lifting straps is 2-3 layers (depending on the lift rating) in order to get the lift rating. . . . .

I am absolutely aware of that. Do you understand that I'm using FOUR of these 3,333 WLL straps to haul a Kubota BX that weighs about 2,500 pounds with the FEL and MMM?. I'm quite certain I have an adequate safety margin with my setup. And I would have absolutely no concerns about using the same setup on a B series Kubota either.

I'm sure there are people who insist on using 3/8" grade 70 chain to haul an 800 pound garden tractor around. More power to 'em, but I'm not one of them.

If I ever have to trailer my "big" tractor, I will certainly be using appropriately sized and rated chains and binders.

AaronS · Aug 3, 2015

4 grade 70 chains with ratcheting load binders.

Attached to a D-ring on the drawbar in back.

Around the axle in front, with a piece of hose to protect the paint.

Glare makes it hard to see, but with a box blade up front under the bucket, the tractor and rotary cutter completely fill up a 24 foot trailer.

oldballs · Aug 3, 2015

That's really tied down, but it appears to me that your tractor is not centered on the trailer for proper tongue weight.....just sayin'
Cheers,
Mike

check · Aug 3, 2015

One thing I wonder about with respect to chains simply being hooked on to the hook of a binder is, what happens if you hit, say, a real big bump and suddenly the chain gets slack in it, and the chain link slips out of the hook?

AaronS · Aug 3, 2015

oldballs said:
That's really tied down, but it appears to me that your tractor is not centered on the trailer for proper tongue weight.....just sayin'
Cheers,
Mike

I do realize that, but to get that long load centered, I'd either need to have the cutter hanging 3 feet off the trailer, or have a much longer trailer.

AaronS · Aug 3, 2015

check said:
One thing I wonder about with respect to chains simply being hooked on to the hook of a binder is, what happens if you hit, say, a real big bump and suddenly the chain gets slack in it, and the chain link slips out of the hook?

With ratcheting chain binders pulling from opposing directions, I don't see any way for there to be any slack.

Soldier415 · Oct 21, 2016

I was using straps on the front from the top of the frame down to the stake pocket, but after doing a lot of reading on straps I ordered axle straps for the front and will be using Grade 70 3/8" chain.

powerscol · Oct 23, 2016

On thing I did not see here is we all should be using grade 70 transport rated chain or better, and that the hooks should be grade 70 or better too. I have a thread where I just upgraded my tie down equipment. I am getting ratchet binders that are lockable. I currently have the cam binders that I use a cheater bar on. I'm getting old so that heavy pull was getting to me.I also have long straps for securing hay loads.

CSP runs a lot of pop up inspection stations here and I got invited into one last week as I have truck plates on my F350 dually. They were nice, no fines, but I was using the wrong grade chain. Turns out my TSC straps are not DOT rated either, but as I am farm exempt I am ok to use. I did have 4 separate tie down points though. I have clevis hooks on the bucket, so was chained there at each corner, and two separate chains either side of my draw bar. The only thing they recommended is that I should chain the front of the tractor next time and not chain the bucket due to the quick attach connection as I had done. I learned a lot talking with them.
Another trick I learned was to get some old fire hose and slide the chain through them to keep from scratching the paint just as AronS showed in his photos.

mcj115 · Oct 24, 2016

I am a little different in the fact that I don't chain down a tractor, I strap it down. Really I treat strapping down a tractor no different than securing a car. I use one strap for each tire; each strap has two tie down points--one front of the tire and one after the tire. There is a small ~2ft choker strap that is on the main strap for each wheel. The main strap goes behind the tire and the choker strap goes on the outside. There is one set of straps for each wheel, giving a legitimate 4 pt. tie down. If there is an implement I may run a extra stap side to side to keep it from shifting it it isn't really a good tied down. The method that I use is nice because 1) there is no heavy chains 2) you don't need to throw any thing across the deck of the trailer and crawl on the deck to route a chain. 3) Sicne the tires are used as the tie down points there isn't anything sharp to cut the straps. 4) you won't damage the pain of your tractor from chain or straps---you will scuff the tires a litte from the strap but that cleans right off.

While I don't have any pictures I was able to find an exaple of the tie down that I used on the web. ..
UK Trailer Parts | System 9 Round the Wheel Strap

b2910 · Nov 8, 2016

I was hoping to see more pictures but there were some good ideas posted. I plan on trailering my B2910, not sure how much it weighs but probably well less than 5k with the front end loader attached. It sounds like the front end loader should be tied down but the primary tie down for the front would be the tractor frame itself such as the front weight plate. The back end is the one I am not too clear about, using the draw bar seems a bit iffy, the one picture I saw of that had the draw really extended out and the pull was leveraged against it. I don't have my tractor on hand to look at the rear axle but I don't want to damage it so those smart straps look interesting, I was planning on using chains with ratchet binders. So here are some questions:

1 How tight do you get the ratchet binders? Obviously you don't want slack in the chain or strap but with the turnbuckle design of the ratchet binders I have I could easily put so much tension on the linkage that some the 3300 LB strength of the strap would be used up in the tightening and a hard bump or accident might exceed that limit, the forces/tension would be additive IMO.

2 How often do you recheck your straps/chains for tightness? Just initially after a few miles or several times through out a 500 mile journey?

3 How fast do you drive your trailer? I have an old car hauler trailer which I just put new trailer tires on from Sam's Club and I believe they are rated for no more than 65mph. I drive on the interstate a lot and nearly every trailer passes me at 67mph - running about 2000 RPM, seems like a sweet spot on my engine, add on cruise control lets it get up to 75 on some down hills. When I pull my trailer I plan on doing something closer to 60mph but that will add a lot of time so I can see me inching up to 65, also to avoid engine lugging.

4 Several posters mentioned putting their tractor in gear with the brakes applied, do you use 4 wheel traction if you have it on your tractor? The brakes on my tractor are fine for tractor use, but not sure if they really amount to much when you are doing over 25mph, so on a trailer at interstate speeds their only purpose seems to be for holding the tractor in position when you initially tie it down.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

bdog · Nov 8, 2016

You might be overthinking this.

Yes you need separate takedowns for the tractor and the loader.

Nothing at all wrong with using the drawbar as the rear tie down.

I get the tie downs as tight as I can within reason. I don't bust a gut tightening them but I sure don't worry about over tightening. If a tie down has a WLL of 3300lb the breaking strength is at least three times that. I would not worry about overtaxing your tiedowns by getting them too tight.

By law you are supposed to check your tie downs within the first 50 miles, and then at every 150 miles or three hours whichever occurs first. Also required to check them anytime you stop. In my opinion the law is pretty good from a practical sense. No matter how good I tie things down after driving 20-50 miles when I check it usually something needs tightening.

I drive the speed limit. Be it 65 mph or 80 MPH like on our Texas Interstates. My tires are rated for it though. Do not drive faster than your tire rating but I have no concerns driving 80 mph pulling a trailer.

When I park a machine on a trailer I put it in gear or park and set the brake if applicable.. If it is 4wd it doesn't hurt and probably helps to have it in 4WD.

b2910 · Nov 9, 2016

Thanks for the information bdog. I was totally unaware of the legal requirements for checking the tie downs. I have walked past several rigs with noticeable slack in the chains so obviously that person has not rechecked them at that point. In loads I have carried in the back of my pickup truck I often find the straps become loose as the load redistributes itself ever so slightly, something as solid as a vehicle such as a tractor shouldn't do that as much. With cars the usual tie down method is on the tires or axles which means the weight of the car is on springs which certainly reduces the shock against the tie downs, no springs on a tractor.

That is interesting about your trailer tire ratings, things I found were that trailer tires were built for lateral stability rather than speed. If you use light truck tires you have higher speed capability but a little less stability, however the big rigs obviously have tires rated for high speed and great stability so there must be some trailer tires out there with both.

Thanks again for your advice.

maxton · Nov 10, 2016

By law you must have 4 totally separate tie downs. 1 in each corner. Also the bucket and attachment will also need to be dogged down. The tie down equipment must be rated for 50 % of the total weight of the equipment that is held down. I have been pulled and inspected many times. Only the first time was it explained to me by the dot officer. I could have been fined 500.00 but I played dumb. I used 1 chain on the front with a ratchet and 1 chain in the rear with a ratchet. Each was secured on other side. Giving me what I thought was a 4 point tie down. But as he explained if the chain broke it would actually fail in two places. I haul excavators track loaders tractors. Do not cut corners it will cost you. Also Be sure your pickup has enough tag rating to cover the entire weight of the truck trailer and what you are hauling. They can shut you down on the side of the road. The overweight fine is amazingly expensive.

bdog · Nov 10, 2016

maxton said:
By law you must have 4 totally separate tie downs. 1 in each corner. Also the bucket and attachment will also need to be dogged down. The tie down equipment must be rated for 50 % of the total weight of the equipment that is held down. I have been pulled and inspected many times. Only the first time was it explained to me by the dot officer. I could have been fined 500.00 but I played dumb. I used 1 chain on the front with a ratchet and 1 chain in the rear with a ratchet. Each was secured on other side. Giving me what I thought was a 4 point tie down. But as he explained if the chain broke it would actually fail in two places. I haul excavators track loaders tractors. Do not cut corners it will cost you. Also Be sure your pickup has enough tag rating to cover the entire weight of the truck trailer and what you are hauling. They can shut you down on the side of the road. The overweight fine is amazingly expensive.

Only if what you are tieing down weighs over 10,000 lbs. If it is under 10,000 lb you only by law need two tie downs. I still would recommend and use 4 myself but the law says two. You can read this at the FMCSA 393.128 and 393.130

travlitt · Nov 10, 2016

Getting ready for a day of mowing.

Redlands Okie · Nov 11, 2016

That looks like a awfull PUSH / HAND operated device on the back of that nice tractor with CAB. Do you just tie it to the side of the tractors mower and drag it down the fenced line ?