How do you put your tire chains on ?

[RoyJackson]

If you jack the tire up and keep working with the chains while rotating the tire you can get them pretty tight. I have read it both ways. Some say the chains should be tight and some say not.

Yeah...read those conflicting statements too. Quite the dilemma...
But I didn't want the chains hitting the fenders (they don't), so I reckon I'm OK.

I looked at a few installation videos. All recommended using some type of tensioner. Just do a Google search for "Installing tractor tire chains" and see what you find.

 

[gerard]

Rears - Jack up the tractor with floor jack, hook a chain to a tire lug and spin the tire. Gravity does pretty well tensioning the chins as they come on to the tire. Attach inner as tight as you can with no tools, then do outside which has the built in tension clamp. Spin the tire a few times and even out, then I use rubber bungis. Front tires are similar but I lift wit the loader and use springs for the tensioning as they came with them. Haven't had a chain slip or come off doing it this way for 10 years so I guess it's an acceptable method.

 

[newbury]

Tightness is relative. I used to use chains on cars and small trucks a lot in Vermont. Rarely used them for more than a week in a row. They would loosen up after the first few miles, and require tightening if I was going to use them much more. But usually it would only be a few days and a few slow miles I would have them on.

For my tractor use I'll probably not drive a mile all winter, so loose won't matter much. I just want a lot more bite if I have to plow snow like last year,

 

[Don87]

Chains should always be tight on the tire. Loose chains can hit the fenders, or they can actually 'crawl off' the tire.
On my old cub cadet, I would let air out of the tire, install the chains, then air the tire back up.
On my massey, I can't do that due to the fluid level in my tires( or else I would).

 

[beenthere]

Mine are plenty tight just by hand. No tools needed.
I jack up the tire or run it a short distance to take up the outside links (end up with two loose ones). No loose links on the inside.

I like them loose enough that the cross links have a small loop and drop out of the tire lugs on the way around. Not so loose they hit the fender (until a cross link wears and breaks). Then I put a repair link in.

 

[Destructo_D]

Nothing like making a job harder then it needs to be

I work for a company in canada that sells chains and I also manufacture custom snow chains... anything from atv or your little sears garden tractor or snow blower, pickups, semis, and on up to forestry and mining... I was actually horrified to see how fast that tractor was going on bare pavement with those chains whipping around like that... nothing says chain failure by doing just that.

with that being said, yes, way too much effort was put into putting those chains on....

thanks for the link tho... I watched a few and even had a good chuckle at the square link chain on the gas powered rc car

 

[Destructo_D]

Yeah...read those conflicting statements too. Quite the dilemma...
But I didn't want the chains hitting the fenders (they don't), so I reckon I'm OK.

I looked at a few installation videos. All recommended using some type of tensioner. Just do a Google search for "Installing tractor tire chains" and see what you find.

once again, I manufacture chains.. You want them snug, but not digging into the tire.... loose chains will break the cross rails by whipping them around.... also, same chain whipping around can damage the body of your car, tractor or other peice of equipment.

with that being said, there are the exceptions... things like skidders, loaders and other larger pieces of equipment, it is next to impossible to get the chains tight... thats why you see the chain so loose on a "net" style chain

 

[Destructo_D]

With the shorter cross chains (those are where the wear is at) and longer side chains, it keeps the cost down. When cross chains are long to reach the side chains, they only wear about half the length. But if you like the apparent extra traction, then that is the way to go.
Properly fitted and hand tightened, there is no worry that they are going to climb off.
Another reason (actually the main reason) they are built this way, was to not encroach on the narrow space between the fender and the tire. These chains fit into the scallop at the end of the tire bars.

And note, there is no way the cross chains are hiding between the bars. So often we read where there is a fear that the cross chains will get lost in the lugs and not work.

best solution is instead of having 3 bare links between cross rails, "double duty" the set and have only 1 bare link between the rails... this will help alot with ladder style chains... this is the only cost effective solution to deep lug tires.... yes some rails will fall between the lugs... but the only other option is to use a H-pattern or net pattern chain... and that gets pricey

 

[Destructo_D]

Hmmm, anyone thin these might be worth a try?

Autosock Item Information

much more expensive

YouTube - Onspot Automatic Tire Chains

the problem with the on spot system is they are good for 2 things... they are mainly used on fire trucks where time is a factor... they can flip a switch and not waste time going to an emergency.. work on buses too with low clearence....

the down side is, they are only good for going forward, as it only spins the chain in FRONT of the tires.. you are more or less screwed if you want to back up, because the chain is on the wrong side of tires....

with that said, it's still a good system for its intended use

 

[Destructo_D]

Just wanted to add that I hope I wasn't coming off as a "know it all" in my replies. It wasn't inteded to be. I have 5 years experince with manufacturing custom tire chains and I am always learning something new regarding snow chains....

thanks for listening to my rants. lol