How do you tie down tractors when hauling on a trailer?

[aczlan]

I hope I'm the example of what to do... be gentle!

How is the back strap setup? It looks like it is a single strap going over the 3pt arms and down.
If so, I would use 2 straps back there, not 1. If you have to stop hard, that will be taking all of the strain from the tractor trying to roll into the back of the truck and another $25 strap is cheaper than a new tailgate. Also, if it runs over the 3 point arms like that, it could wear and get cut unless you have padding under it.
Technically (per the DOT), you should probably have a strap on the bucket and grader/landplane as well, but they aren't likely to go anywhere.

Aaron Z

 

[AGGIE00]

I hope I'm the example of what to do... be gentle!

Yours will work if you substitute chains for straps. The rear strap will not hold in a front impact collision.

 

[JB4310]

Yours will work if you substitute chains for straps. The rear strap will not hold in a front impact collision.

Even with chain there it wouldn't hold from front to back or side to side movement. No positive opposing force, it's just kinda stabilizing the load from casual movement.

JB

 

[nunyabinis]

I hope I'm the example of what to do... be gentle!

Dude, you've got brass cajones.


That setup even scares the bejesus outta me. No small task.


.

 

[Trails2004]

In all honesty- you should find a location on the equipment frame on the front, and use the lowest point possible ( ie hitch on the rear ). Think corners and think straight line- (ie left front to left front of the trailer )

Important- the chain must not reath or bind with any point on the equipment.

 

[Trails2004]

This may be overkill, but it's not hard to do or expensive.

Tie down four corners, 3/8 G70 chain, 4 ratchet binders of the same rating, nylon straps on the loader bucket and whatever is on the 3 pt.

I don't go far but, it makes me feel safer.

Still might be able to find flaws in my set up

JB

With all due respect- your rear chains are to high also they are touching your rear tires. You should considering using the lowest point possible. ( think hitch area )

 

[JB4310]

I hear ya, I guess I'm still learning. But I feel pretty comfortable with it, considering like I mentioned no other available connection point on back that would be as stable.

I thought I was lucky to have those BH mounting holes.

JB

 

[AGGIE00]

Even with chain there it wouldn't hold from front to back or side to side movement. No positive opposing force, it's just kinda stabilizing the load from casual movement.

JB

With chains, the stake pockets would have to tear out in order to get front to back movement which won't happen. Boomed down tight, side to side movement won't happen unless the trailer ends up on its side and at that point none of this matters.

Most of the opinions here are professorial theories with no practical experience in transporting equipment. I think some would criticise if I welded the tractor, loader and rear attachment to the trailer saying the grade of rod is not sufficient. On the flip side seeing iron tractors secured using ratchet straps over iron with no scuff guards is concerning. I used fewer chains to secure a 65 ton off road crane to a 50 ton detach than what is sometimes suggested to hold down a 3500 pound cut. Common sense should drive the decision.

 

[Trails2004]

I hear ya, I guess I'm still learning. But I feel pretty comfortable with it, considering like I mentioned no other available connection point on back that would be as stable.

I thought I was lucky to have those BH mounting holes.

JB

Your equipment doesn't have a hitch on the rear? My 790 and my new 3520 both have hitches. I use a large clevis for an anchor point

 

[Trails2004]

..Most of the opinions here are professorial theories with no practical experience in transporting equipment. ....

I do have practical experience hauling heavy equipment. Snow Cats and drags- in excess of 18,000 lbs, Trail Dozers in excess of 10,000 . Mini-X, and Large FEL's