Hub to axle seal job complete on a 1533, Photos

[66chevelle]

Is there any reason that the hub will not drop after removing both snap rings, lower gear and shaft? Although I'm working on a MF1635 the schematics are identical to the 1533.

Thanks

 

[MrSteve]

Is there any reason that the hub will not drop after removing both snap rings, lower gear and shaft? Although I'm working on a MF1635 the schematics are identical to the 1533.

Thanks

I would guess the 2 piece seal is holding it from dropping. Try giving the hub some taps on the side with a 'plastic' hammer while pulling down and see if drops then. If it dose, just remember the one side of the seal is still stuck on the axle.

 

[66chevelle]

Unfortunately it's a no go, after trying the other side with the same results I must be missing something.. Used the BFH (rubber shot one) and pounded away with zero movement. I have noticed that the outer bearing surface moved freely but the inter stays put. Thought about applying heat to it, but don't wish to either damage the bearing or set fire to the inner workings. any other ideas would be appreciated. Attached pictures to show removed split rings.

 

[MrSteve]

Unfortunately it's a no go, after trying the other side with the same results I must be missing something.. Used the BFH (rubber shot one) and pounded away with zero movement. I have noticed that the outer bearing surface moved freely but the inter stays put. Thought about applying heat to it, but don't wish to either damage the bearing or set fire to the inner workings. any other ideas would be appreciated. Attached pictures to show removed split rings. View attachment 611440View attachment 611462

I reduced this photo, look at yours at full size to see what I am seeing...

Did you remove the lock ring with pliers/screwdriver something other then lock ring pliers? The reason I ask, there looks like there is a purr on the drop axle. If this is the case, the bearing inner race could be stuck on that purr and that is why the hub wont drop.

 

[mike194]

With the help of this thread, I was able to replace both seals on my AGCO ST30x. I struggled to get the bottom cap off, to solve this I drilled a hole in the cap and ran a self tapping screw into the hole and pryed it out that way. (Assuming you have new caps).

also remember to support the housing when you take off the second snap ring, you wouldn't want it to fall on your face.

It's great this post is helping people 12 years later !

 

[MrSteve]

With the help of this thread, I was able to replace both seals on my AGCO ST30x. I struggled to get the bottom cap off, to solve this I drilled a hole in the cap and ran a self tapping screw into the hole and pryed it out that way. (Assuming you have new caps).

also remember to support the housing when you take off the second snap ring, you wouldn't want it to fall on your face.

It's great this post is helping people 12 years later !

It is something Mike, still good after so many years!

 

[dotman]

Hello Mr Steve! I need help and so glad your still replying to this old thread. Here is my situation. 2014 MF 1529 compact. No bottom cap like yours. Had to remove outer hub which gives me a small access to the first snap ring. After breaking two pliers I got it undone but not completely off. I was then able to drop the hub off. Now I am stuck. I cannot pull out the rod and inter bearing since it seems I needed to remove the first snap ring all he way off. So here are my questions.

1. How to now remove the snap ring since it is blocking the removal of the rod pulling out. I cannot widening it enough around the rod or do I need to?

2. Since I now have access to the top where the seal is located how in the world can I get that removed? Heat? It is completely stuck on the hub casing. Btw I do not see any of it on the down support so I just need to get it off the casing. As I pick and prod it is all falling into the shaft and bearings. Did not think that was good so I stopped.

3. I do not really see a need to get the second snap ring since I can now get to the seal. So that may make my first question mute. Assuming you agree.

Trying to save $600 from the local shop but this has been painful. Thank you so much for your help and advice.

 

[MrSteve]

Hello Mr Steve! I need help and so glad your still replying to this old thread. Here is my situation. 2014 MF 1529 compact. No bottom cap like yours. Had to remove outer hub which gives me a small access to the first snap ring. After breaking two pliers I got it undone but not completely off. I was then able to drop the hub off. Now I am stuck. I cannot pull out the rod and inter bearing since it seems I needed to remove the first snap ring all he way off. So here are my questions.


1. How to now remove the snap ring since it is blocking the removal of the rod pulling out. I cannot widening it enough around the rod or do I need to?
2. Since I now have access to the top where the seal is located how in the world can I get that removed? Heat? It is completely stuck on the hub casing. Btw I do not see any of it on the down support so I just need to get it off the casing. As I pick and prod it is all falling into the shaft and bearings. Did not think that was good so I stopped.

3. I do not really see a need to get the second snap ring since I can now get to the seal. So that may make my first question mute. Assuming you agree.

Trying to save $600 from the local shop but this has been painful. Thank you so much for your help and advice.

I'll try to help, but not knowing if the 1529 is the same might not be easy.

1. How to now remove the snap ring since it is blocking the removal of the rod pulling out. I cannot widening it enough around the rod or do I need to?

If you feel you can get the seal around the drop spindle (I assume that is what you are calling the rod?), then I guess you could keep it as it is and work around it. But IMO, it would be best to get the knuckle right off the tractor.

2. Since I now have access to the top where the seal is located how in the world can I get that removed? Heat? It is completely stuck on the hub casing. Btw I do not see any of it on the down support so I just need to get it off the casing. As I pick and prod it is all falling into the shaft and bearings. Did not think that was good so I stopped.

If it is the same type of seal in the pictures in my 1st post... Seal on top of the bearing. Take a flat bladed screwdriver (Or use the tool of your choice, angled ended pry bar, etc) and put it between the seal and bearing, then rotate (twist) the screw driver while walking it around the lower part of the seal, to pop the seal out, you are using the bearing as the leverage point to pop the seal. Now remember if this is a 2 piece seal, there could be part of the seal (a collar) still on the spindle, that also must be removed. Look at your new seal, if you put your fingers in the center of the seal and hold tight (push you fingers out) then try to rotate the outer section, if the outer section moves, then it is a 2 piece seal.

3. I do not really see a need to get the second snap ring since I can now get to the seal. So that may make my first question mute. Assuming you agree.

I guess this points to my 1st reply.

I'll keep an eye out for your reply of the outcome. Good luck.

 

[cdaigle430]

Three things I can suggest as I just did mine 2 months ago-Do both sides as well as the upper and lower seals. You have to drain all the fluid anyway and you can bet the other will fail as well.
I tried several methods to put the upper seal on but the best one was with a sedge hammer and some patients. I used a muffler coupler and the old seal to hammer it back on. Some actually take the whole axle end off to do this.

I added a heavier recommended lube in the front axle after instead of the hydraulic-but if you hadn't replaced the upper seal then thats why yours keeps leaking.

 

[dotman]

Hello again. Back at it. Not getting very far. I have spent hours trying to pick out the old seal. The new seal seems to be a one piece with a inter metal ring. I cannot make t spin. Seems to be much larger then the first one but I have hacked and cut it up in little pieces you couldn稚 tell. Still no original inter metal ring as far as I can tell.

I need to send pics somehow as I知 sure this has to be completely clean before the new one goes in. I notice everyone else has been able to take the drop spindle out but mine is still in there probably due to the split ring just hanging around the spindle. Lots of debris has fallen inside the bearings and now they grind.

Any other way to send pics on this forum?

 

[Vinny6266]

Just replaced front axle seals on my MF 1428V. Or at least I attempted to...went smoothly following the instructions in this post. However I cant get the axle hub to fully seat at the top gasket seal where it sits inside the axle. See pics attached. I ordered correct parts from the dealer. It seemed like a very tight fit before mounting. I inserted this gasket into the hub assembly first..and I have the beveled edge of the gasket up like it should be. Is there a trick to getting this inserted?...tried all the tricks, well lubed...bearings arent getting hung up...I even put the tire back on in hopes that the weight of the tractor would help push it in and seat it all the way. I did notice the new gasket looks different than the leaky one I removed, were they remanfactured recently?
Anybody else have this issue with similar tractor?
View attachment 534042

Hi, I hope you guys are still looking at this post. I need to change both sides on my 2003 1428V Hydrostatic, I am hoping you can help me with a part number for the seal. I bought the tractor this year from a dealer in Ontario and his mechanic sent me a page with the part number highlighted ( 3709149M91 and the top of the page says Chassis- Final Gear Case System (F type) ) but when I look on the Agro parts book site under the hydro I get (4266334M91) Do you know if the F type is for the non Hydro model, it looks like this is the case. Any help you can provide would be very appreciated. Thank you

 

[MrSteve]

I was asked by a member to see if I could find the photos that aren't showing up in my 1st post... 13 years later, I found them on a CD (lol who says CDs in computers are dead). Photos posted, part 1

 

[MrSteve]

Photos posted, part2...

 

[Aspudko]

EDIT... Photos that are missing are on page 8, posted 3-31-2021


I had a leaking seal on my pass side front hub to axle and I did the job today. I thought I would post some photos to maybe help others with this job. Looking for info on the net to help me out (I never did this job before) wasn't easy, there is nothing about the 1533.

So to the photos, if you have any questions please ask. I "think" I added the words needed to explain each photo.

Parts needed.

Lower cap seal #3758152M1
Hub to axle seal #6240892M91
2gal of Hydraulic fluid
Cotter pin (for tie rod nut)

Hammer, screw driver, 9/16 wrench, 5/8 wrench, pliers, Snap ring pliers (9" or longer, any shorter will not do), impact gun (if your lazy like me for taking off the wheel) with 24mm socket. The tape is there to give a size measurement, its open to 18".

Hello sir, my 1529 just started doing the same thing. I can't view the pictures. Could you share them again?

 

[Aspudko]

EDIT... Photos that are missing are on page 8, posted 3-31-2021


I had a leaking seal on my pass side front hub to axle and I did the job today. I thought I would post some photos to maybe help others with this job. Looking for info on the net to help me out (I never did this job before) wasn't easy, there is nothing about the 1533.

So to the photos, if you have any questions please ask. I "think" I added the words needed to explain each photo.

Parts needed.

Lower cap seal #3758152M1
Hub to axle seal #6240892M91
2gal of Hydraulic fluid
Cotter pin (for tie rod nut)

Hammer, screw driver, 9/16 wrench, 5/8 wrench, pliers, Snap ring pliers (9" or longer, any shorter will not do), impact gun (if your lazy like me for taking off the wheel) with 24mm socket. The tape is there to give a size measurement, its open to 18".

EDIT... Photos that are missing are on page 8, posted 3-31-2021


I had a leaking seal on my pass side front hub to axle and I did the job today. I thought I would post some photos to maybe help others with this job. Looking for info on the net to help me out (I never did this job before) wasn't easy, there is nothing about the 1533.

So to the photos, if you have any questions please ask. I "think" I added the words needed to explain each photo.

Parts needed.

Lower cap seal #3758152M1
Hub to axle seal #6240892M91
2gal of Hydraulic fluid
Cotter pin (for tie rod nut)

Hammer, screw driver, 9/16 wrench, 5/8 wrench, pliers, Snap ring pliers (9" or longer, any shorter will not do), impact gun (if your lazy like me for taking off the wheel) with 24mm socket. The tape is there to give a size measurement, its open to 18".

Does the front axle take regular hydraulic fluid or 80w90?

 

[MrSteve]

Hello sir, my 1529 just started doing the same thing. I can't view the pictures. Could you share them again?

Did you check above your 1st post? I know they aren't showing on the 1st page but they are above.

Oil type... I am not sure (tractor has been gone for many years), I just can't remember. It could be hydraulic/trans oil or 80W90. You should be able to see/smell what type it is, not sure what the hydraulic smells like but we all know how gear oil smells.

 

[WilliamBos]

Does the front axle take regular hydraulic fluid or 80w90?

The front axle takes Permatran or an equivelent.

 

[torch1]

Good day everyone. Some excellent detail on this post and much appreciated.
I own a 1528 MF and have had 2 seal failures in about 950 hrs, first at about 600.

I have a question about the 4266334M91 upper seal.
1) did the original seal also include a speedy sleeve as part of the seal assembly?
this is the part(thin metal piece that seal wears into) that stays on the upper part of the axle when you pull it apart.
This is indicated in one of the pictures.

I am thinking that the original seal changed up to a new style seal and that the sleeve is no longer used.
Can anyone verify this thought.

I say this as there is no part number for the sleeve in the parts diagram.

Normally when a manufacture changes up a part number they put a "C" beside the part number indicating a change?

The post is awesome as are the pictures, just need to verify the seal change and story on the sleeve.

Thanks from Canada, May 22,2022
Torch1

 

[MrSteve]

Torch...

The 'speedy sleeve' is part of the seal. If you look up 5 post I show a photo of the sleeve. I should have posted to make sure you remove it before installing the new seal (I added those photos because some how they went missing from my earlier post). I added a photo to this post just in case you can't see it above. So in short, no, its not new.

EDIT... Just incase I am not understanding 100%. The new seal did have the inner sleeve. It should already be installed in the new seal. Its been a long time, but 'if' I remember correctly, the seal is a 2 piece type, as in, if you hold the inner seal (in this case the sleeve) with your fingers, the outer seal should rotate. Again, its been a long time so forgive me if I am wrong on this.

So with all said, if you are saying the new seal no longer includes this inner sleeve, then it must have changed? I still would remove the sleeve if still on the spindle.

 

[torch1]

You are absolutely correct Mr Steve, the seal does come with the sleeve all ready installed. Because of the pre installed lube and dark colored I was missing that fact. I used a magnet and it stuck to the top and bottom of the sleeve edge, so indeed metal.
Leaving the old sleeve on the upper housing is going to cause a big problem and needs to be removed.
I really appreciate you quick response as I am right in the middle of the seal replacement this week.
Cheers to everyone contributing to this post, I will take a picture of the new seal and add to the post,
Very Awesome, Torch1