Huskee log splitter B&S engine crankcase full of gas!

[4570Man]

I’m trying to understand how so much gas can leak into oil.
So the gas leaks into oil in the days and weeks prior to running it?
When it’s off?

My understanding of the problem is that the carburettor float sticks open. The gas tank is about the carburettor so it gravity feeds through the carburettor into the cylinder. Then it either runs through the valves or around the rings into the crank case.

 

[CobyRupert]

Huskee log splitter B&S engine crankcase full of gas!

But with a stuck float, gas can only pass to the oil when it’s not running right? Otherwise it would get burnt right?
I guess I assumed the gas got in the oil when it was running from blow by or a leak in the (non-existing) fuel pump because I assumed most people check the oil before starting.

 

[David_Kb7uns]

The older SPEECO 33 ton had an 8HP Briggs vertical L head with a float carb and gravity flow, put a shut off valve and run the gas out every time no more problems.

The slightly newer 34 ton went to the 10HP overhead valve with cranckcase vacuum operated fuel pump feeding a diaphragm carb.

Have had the 33 ton splitter since 2001 and it just keeps on going, replaced starter rope once and had to get a new throttle lever bracket but it keeps going and have split up to 48 inch Doug Fir and 38 inch plus maple.

Do not think the newer splitters will last as long with the aluminum pumps and valves now all the old ones were cast iron.

David

 

[4570Man]

The older SPEECO 33 ton had an 8HP Briggs vertical L head with a float carb and gravity flow, put a shut off valve and run the gas out every time no more problems.

The slightly newer 34 ton went to the 10HP overhead valve with cranckcase vacuum operated fuel pump feeding a diaphragm carb.

Have had the 33 ton splitter since 2001 and it just keeps on going, replaced starter rope once and had to get a new throttle lever bracket but it keeps going and have split up to 48 inch Doug Fir and 38 inch plus maple.

Do not think the newer splitters will last as long with the aluminum pumps and valves now all the old ones were cast iron.

David

My splitter came with an aluminium pump and a year warranty. The aluminium pump started leaking out of the face after minimal use. Which I can probably fix with a $3 seal. Since it was under warranty I contacted them and they sent me a new pump which was cast iron.

 

[David_Kb7uns]

Well on Ebay SPEECO and everybody else is having their name stamped on the same aluminum pumps.

My splitter had Energy cylinder and valve and the Barnes Haldex cast iron pump. Only bad thing was the filter is on the suction side of pump.


David

 

[FTG-05]

The fuel shut off won't clear out the fuel bowl but in the event it malfunctions again it will limit the amount of gas leakage.

Will not running it dry do the same thing? That's what I usually do - but failed to do the last time I ran it last season.

 

[JRobyn]

Yes, you will accomplish the same thing by running it dry. But this also assumes that you either empty the fuel tank OR install a fuel shutoff valve.

And I have found that on some (not the greatest) carburetor designs that even running the carb "dry" leaves just enough fuel to varnish/gum up. And when it does it is RIGHT around the main jet where it has the maximum bad effect. I am thankful for those carb designers that include a small drain screw in the VERY bottom of the carb's fuel bowl.

 

[TimberHole]

More than likely it wasn't the float sticking but rather a needle that wasn't sealing properly in the seat. Regardless, the result is the same. Install a fuel shut off and run it dry when done. I would try to run fuel without alcohol if possible but either way use stabil.

 

[4570Man]

Will not running it dry do the same thing? That's what I usually do - but failed to do the last time I ran it last season.

Yes, but it's harder to do without the shutoff.

 

[FTG-05]

Yes, you will accomplish the same thing by running it dry. But this also assumes that you either empty the fuel tank OR install a fuel shutoff valve.

And I have found that on some (not the greatest) carburetor designs that even running the carb "dry" leaves just enough fuel to varnish/gum up. And when it does it is RIGHT around the main jet where it has the maximum bad effect. I am thankful for those carb designers that include a small drain screw in the VERY bottom of the carb's fuel bowl.

Like I said, I normally do, but just didn't this time last season (crap!).

There is a screw on the bottom of the bowl - is that the drain? It's a pretty big screw, it looks like about the size of a 1/4x20 bolt head.

Thanks!