Huskee log splitter B&S engine crankcase full of gas!

[FTG-05]

Yes, but it's harder to do without the shutoff.

You can tell I'm really resisting adding a fuel shutoff. Dealing with cold 1/4" FIH that's only 3" long isn't my idea of fun.

But, you'll probably shame me into it - if you guys keep it up.

 

[CobyRupert]

Like I said, I normally do, but just didn't this time last season (crap!).

There is a screw on the bottom of the bowl - is that the drain? It's a pretty big screw, it looks like about the size of a 1/4x20 bolt head.

Thanks!

Most likely it is.

 

[big bubba]

sounds like you took care of the problem, way to go. as mentioned, ethanol free fuel w/stabilizer will prevent most problems. valve adj. is often over looked, would recommend a few seasons after initial break in. if you haven't done before, recommend maybe having someone there who has, very simple. following site is useful for small engine specs. moto on

Outdoor Power Equipment Information

 

[JRobyn]

A 1/4-20 screw is so large as to probably be the bowl attachment screw. Only way to tell for sure it to remove it once. Just be careful the bowl (and gaskets) doesn't fall off in your hands! If it is exactly in the bottom center of the bowl, that makes it more likely to be the attachment screw, in which case I'd leave it be and just run it as dry as possible.

 

[FTG-05]

Well crap, I jinxed myself - it did it again!

This time, I'm going to do what I should have done before: just take it apart myself. Gorram it!!!

No carb rebuild kits in town. One place has new carbs but I didn't have the old one with me plus he wasn't there anyway (his shop appeared closed so I called him). I'm going to get the engine model number, now that I know where to look and order a carb rebuild kit for it. I'll also install a fuel shut off valve as suggested.

 

[aczlan]

Well crap, I jinxed myself - it did it again!

This time, I'm going to do what I should have done before: just take it apart myself. Gorram it!!!

No carb rebuild kits in town. One place has new carbs but I didn't have the old one with me plus he wasn't there anyway (his shop appeared closed so I called him). I'm going to get the engine model number, now that I know where to look and order a carb rebuild kit for it. I'll also install a fuel shut off valve as suggested.

Just go on Amazon with the carb part number and buy a new carb. $30 for a new carb vs $15-25 for a seal kit is a no brained in my book.

Aaron Z

 

[FTG-05]

Just go on Amazon with the carb part number and buy a new carb. $30 for a new carb vs $15-25 for a seal kit is a no brained in my book.

Aaron Z

Good idea!

 

[FredH]

Been there done that . While on the road working , family would run splitter or neighbors would borrow it . Come home , have to fix . Carb issue's were usual cause . Was a Black " industrial " B & S . Finally did what Mossroad did . Went to Harbor freight and picked up a predator . Bolted it on and have not looked back . Had built in fuel shut off . Sits for 6 to 8 months and 2 or 3 pulls , fires right up . Liked it so much , I had a old self propelled lawn mower that I used for mowing around pool , shop and Grandson's play area , and I added the 6.5 vertical shaft to it . It is awesome . Even when new , could never use mower in top 2 gears , ( second & third / 2 & 3 ) . Now , can run it in third , even in wet stuff , only issue is having to almost run to keep up . :thumbsup:

Fred H.

 

[MoparTrucks]

Just go on Amazon with the carb part number and buy a new carb. $30 for a new carb vs $15-25 for a seal kit is a no brained in my book.

Aaron Z

This is good advice. I do small engine repair on the side and besides putting a fuel shut off on it, to fix the problem you need to remove the carb and clean it out. Take out the jets, needle, float etc and then soak the whole thing in Chem Dip or the like and then blow it all out with compressed air. Each tiny orifice needs to be clear (I use a set of lantern picks) and the needle and seat needs to be clean. Or, for usually less than 30 bucks you can buy a new one and be done with it as Aaron said. For these small engines I will try and clean the carb but if I have to buy a carb rebuild kit I'll sporing for the extra $5 - 10 and buy a new one.

As for Sta-bil,,,,I am not a fan. Stabil works for larger volumes of gas but turns to jelly in carbs and fuel lines. On my small engines I run the tanks dry and then drain the float bowl and never have a problem. It does help to run them monthly if you leave fuel in them but at least for me I have too many small engines to faithfully do that and I always end up regretting not draining them.

Finally, another endorsement for the Predator Honda GX clone. I have repowered everything from wood splitters to tillers to pressure washers with them and they have been very reliable. They occasionally go on sale around here for $89 and I usually buy two or three just to have on hand.

 

[Oaktree]

Still another endorsement for the 6.5 hp Predator.

Had the same thing with the 30 yo B&S in my log splitter...would run for a few minutes then just stop, like it seized, but you could still turn it over. Small engine guy in town said don't waste your time, and recommended the HF one. We didn't have a store nearby at the time so I got it on line. They must have shipped it by dog sled, because it took almost 2 weeks to get here, but it bolted right up. The output shaft was about 1/2" too long so I had to shim the hydraulic pump, but it's been flawless for the 3 years I've had it. Starts right up 2nd or 3rd pull. Great on gas too, and relatively quiet.