Hydraulic scarifiers: various designs

[xring100]

I've learned that the distinction Gannon makes between 4x2 and 4x4 models may be important. Anyway, in Gannon's line up, the best price I've gotten is $3200 for an 80HB, which is the high back floating tailgate version, which is the direction I'm leaning as I think it'll work with my SpeeCo Cat 2 standard Quick Hitch.

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I Can't say for sure if this model will work with a standard quick hitch but here is problem with my 88HSD and QH Thread link with additional information I wonder if it would work with the Imatch QH but mine definetly did not work with my Worksaver ASAE style as was original advertised.

I could have definetly turned the cylinder around and run the lines through the back but the tower was definitely to tall

 

[xring100]

You may have figured this out by now, but my old Gannon tailgate can be (and usually is) locked down with a pin on each side.

I know that Ted from ETA designed his differently because he was concerned about hitting something and bowing the tailgate in the middle. On my tractor (and probably yours too), I think something else would break before that massive tailgate would bend.

Knowing that you have a hydraulic top link and saying that you usually leave the back edge pined when do you actually let it float? I know you can use it to leave a finished surface, which i accomplish normally by extending my toplink and draging the rear edge. I'm just curious as none of the industrial models except cammond offer a floating tailgate.

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

Knowing that you have a hydraulic top link and saying that you usually leave the back edge pined when do you actually let it float? I know you can use it to leave a finished surface, which i accomplish normally by extending my toplink and draging the rear edge. I'm just curious as none of the industrial models except cammond offer a floating tailgate.

Actually, I do NOT have a hydraulic top link. (That's a situation I intend to remedy in the near future.)

But, to answer your question, I typically leave the tailgate pinned because most of what I'm doing these days is grading and leveling work on my property. In fact, most of what I'm doing could be done better with a land plane grading scraper. And, yes, it works better for leveling to extend the top link (manually in my case). Shortening the top link allows the front blade to dig in more aggressively.

I only let the tailgate float if I want to move large amounts of dirt. I've got some swales that need to be filled and then leveled. I'll unpin the tailgate to bring the dirt to the swales, and then unpin it to level them up.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Knowing that you have a hydraulic top link and saying that you usually leave the back edge pined when do you actually let it float? I know you can use it to leave a finished surface, which i accomplish normally by extending my toplink and draging the rear edge. I'm just curious as none of the industrial models except cammond offer a floating tailgate.

Dave, with the Gannon's you have to go down to an 80" Industrial 4x2 unit before you can get the floating tailgate. With a floating tailgate un-pinned you are able to take a much more aggressive bite when going forward. My thinking is that the floating tailgates are not offered in the larger units due to various structural reasons. As far as smoothing, depends on the conditions on hand as to which is preferred. For light smoothing, you have only the weight of the tail gate instead of the weight of the entire implement. Again, different requirements can call for different optimum applications. My guess would be that they are figuring that anything bigger really isn't going to be used for fine finish grading. :confused3:

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Wow, the Gannon line isn't quick hitch compatible? That's like trying to sell a car that cannot work with an iPhone: no sale.

I will be taking a harder look at the Frontier.

 

[xring100]

Actually, I do NOT have a hydraulic top link. (That's a situation I intend to remedy in the near future.)

But, to answer your question, I typically leave the tailgate pinned because most of what I'm doing these days is grading and leveling work on my property. In fact, most of what I'm doing could be done better with a land plane grading scraper. And, yes, it works better for leveling to extend the top link (manually in my case). Shortening the top link allows the front blade to dig in more aggressively.

I only let the tailgate float if I want to move large amounts of dirt. I've got some swales that need to be filled and then leveled. I'll unpin the tailgate to bring the dirt to the swales, and then unpin it to level them up.

Oh my apologies is swore i had seen an extra set of hoses the back of your tractor at one point. thanks for the explanation

Dave, with the Gannon's you have to go down to an 80" Industrial 4x2 unit before you can get the floating tailgate. With a floating tailgate un-pinned you are able to take a much more aggressive bite when going forward. My thinking is that the floating tailgates are not offered in the larger units due to various structural reasons. As far as smoothing, depends on the conditions on hand as to which is preferred. For light smoothing, you have only the weight of the tail gate instead of the weight of the entire implement. Again, different requirements can call for different optimum applications. My guess would be that they are figuring that anything bigger really isn't going to be used for fine finish grading. :confused3:

Thanks Brian for the explanation having never used one the lighter weight on floating definitely makes much more sense as far as providing a light weight from just the tailgate. I'm surprised you can actually take much bigger of a bite and find it useful. i've easily removed 2.5-3.5" at a time at my neighbors at which point I can fill the box in short order with the right angle of attack on the toplink. If i wanted to take any more I'd need more weight to help with traction in all the clay around here. I knew the bigger blades pretty much had dual curved moldboards with fully boxed sections for strength. I'd definitely hate to hook something hard in the middle of the blade and bend it up. mine does a descent job of moving all the washed out sand from the bottom of the hill to the top but i think i'd really like a grading scraper for finish work.

Wow, the Gannon line isn't quick hitch compatible? That's like trying to sell a car that cannot work with an iPhone: no sale.

I will be taking a harder look at the Frontier.

Not sure about the gannons your looking at but i didn't see it listed on their page . as far as an oversight on gannons part i'm not sure i definetly swayed that way because they claimed mine was but FFC, Land Pride, are definitely not QH Compatible on their big boys Cammond doesn't advertise it so i doubt they are. Frontier looks to be the only one who is? I know having the toplink higher gives you a longer moment arm and reduces the compression load being pushed back up into the top link when pulling ripping.

 

[BukitCase]

I have an original older Gannon, 80" with hydraulic rippers - bought it along with an original Case 3ph that replaces the hoe on older models - the hitch has TnT, power down, float, etc, but is a PITA to swap for anything less than moving several 100 yards at a time

Now I just run the BB on one of the other tractors, but ran into the "too tall tower" thing when I started setting things up for QH - Since the object of the Quick Hitch is obvious in its name, I decided to mod the Gannon rather than my brand new 6' tiller, etc... Here's the sketch of what I did, works fine.

OK, for some reason the board doesn't like my jpg - this one's a newer Gannon I had a pic of, and that one loads fine :confused2:

Basically, I made 2 pair of form fitted add-ons out of 5/8" bar stock using a cardboard template, then made patterns out of masonite to cut them with the plasma, and full penetration welded them on top and front of the existing Cat1 hitch ears. New holes 2" up and an inch forward and the QH now works fine. (YMMV)

Still don't know what's wrong with my Paint sketch, sorry... Steve

 

[Xfaxman]

---------------... Here's the sketch of what I did, works fine.

OK, for some reason the board doesn't like my jpg - this one's a newer Gannon I had a pic of, and that one loads fine :confused2:

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Still don't know what's wrong with my Paint sketch, sorry... Steve

It isn't you, there is a problem with the uploader: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/news-feedback/331158-can-not-attach-photo.html

 

[jenkinsph]

I have an original older Gannon, 80" with hydraulic rippers - bought it along with an original Case 3ph that replaces the hoe on older models - the hitch has TnT, power down, float, etc, but is a PITA to swap for anything less than moving several 100 yards at a time

Now I just run the BB on one of the other tractors, but ran into the "too tall tower" thing when I started setting things up for QH - Since the object of the Quick Hitch is obvious in its name, I decided to mod the Gannon rather than my brand new 6' tiller, etc... Here's the sketch of what I did, works fine.

OK, for some reason the board doesn't like my jpg - this one's a newer Gannon I had a pic of, and that one loads fine :confused2:

Basically, I made 2 pair of form fitted add-ons out of 5/8" bar stock using a cardboard template, then made patterns out of masonite to cut them with the plasma, and full penetration welded them on top and front of the existing Cat1 hitch ears. New holes 2" up and an inch forward and the QH now works fine. (YMMV)

Still don't know what's wrong with my Paint sketch, sorry... Steve

Will be very interested in seeing this modification when possible. Everything I have is quick hitch except my Frontier/Gannon BB1284. I need to fix this right away.

 

[Xfaxman]

Will be very interested in seeing this modification when possible. Everything I have is quick hitch except my Frontier/Gannon BB1284. I need to fix this right away.

With the size and power of your tractor, I would make an adapter that would pin to the BB and fit the quick hitch.