Re: Hydraulic Tip \'N Tilt
Did someone say something about finishing a project lately?/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif I can’t say the project
is finished, but I do finally have the hydraulic tip ‘n tilt working on my 3-point hitch. I’m a
little reluctant to tell about it, but maybe if anyone else intends to try this as a DIY project,
maybe I can help them do a little better than I did.
I used the following parts and costs:
From Kubota, Part number:
6C040-9510-0 Hydraulic Outlet Kit $68.95
(Included hydraulic block, two bolts, two o-rings, and an “instruction manual” that was
one side of a single 8.5” x 11” sheet of paper that showed which port was in and which
was out - noticed top of page showed it was for the
B1700,
B2100, and
B2400, so I
assume those models have the same optional outlet)
The instructions say to “Remove the fender RH and block cover.” (whatever that means).
I just removed the two bolts and cover and put the new outlet on - easy to reach without
removing anything else on the tractor. The instructions also say “NOTE: If the control
valve of implement has the relief valve, the tank port flow from implement should be
connected to the located on the right hand side of transmission case.” (Clear as mud;
right? Did they leave a word out?)
From Tisco, Part numbers:
HTL2102 Top Link Cylinder $185.70
(2” diameter, 20” long, 8” stroke)
HTL2202 Side Link Cylinder $185.70
(2” diameter, 13.5” long, 3.5” stroke)
HV4023 Two Spool Valve $203.84
HV4988 Straight Handle $ 4.43
HV4989 Offset Handle $ 4.43
HV4987 Two Handle Knobs $ 2.40
HV4975 Two Handle Linkage Kits $ 5.20
Obtained from local dealer:
6 hydraulic hoses and assorted fittings $102.00
2 more hoses (because I miscalculated) $ 38.00
1 more hose (because I modified something in the middle of the project) $ 13.90
First had 3/8” hoses to go to and from the valve and 1/4” hoses from valve to cylinders,
but then changed to use 1/4” hoses for all six.
From hardware store:
2 pins $ 2.70
bolt, nuts & washer $ 1.79
Total Cost: $819.04
First concern was that all the items from Tisco came without a single shred of paper; i.e.,
no instruction sheets, no spec sheets, no warranty sheet, or anything else with their name
on it. (I’ve asked the dealer to try to get spec sheets at least). The cylinders had the 90
degree fittings to go in them to attach the hoses to; the valve had none.
I decided to mount the valve on the fender instead of onto the ROPS, as LarryT did, partly
because the valve was small enough to fit conveniently, and partly because the handles are
long enough they would be sticking out too far on the right side to suit me; might hang on
a tree limb sometime. Removed the handle from the right fender, used one of the existing
holes, and drilled one other hole to mount the valve.
The top link cylinder was good as it was; would have preferred about 2” shorter, but
this’ll work. The side link cylinder had the forked end on the rod at an angle similar to the
OEM link, but the top, or cylinder end, had the forked end on straight instead of angled.
That wouldn’t let the lower link swing as far out as it should. In addition, the holes for
the pins were different sizes from the original side link. I had to drill the holes out larger,
couldn’t find pins the same diameter and proper length; had to buy long ones, drill holes
for the cotter pins, cut them down to the proper length, and grind smooth ends on them.
Then I had a couple of short offset heavy brackets on hand that I bolted onto the top fork
of the cylinder to give it the offset necesary to let the lower link swing through its full
range (may weld them on later, but wanted to be sure it was going to work before doing
and welding).
Tisco put a very thick coat of black paint on the handles (levers). I had to remove the
paint from the threaded end on the wire wheel on the bench grinder before I could screw
the handles on. Then I found that the linkage kits for the handles did not have everything
necessary to connect them; just had what looks like a single chain master link. I’ve
temporarily used a couple of small bolts on hand while the dealer is trying to find out how
Tisco thinks you’re going to hook up that linkage Otherwise, everything now works OK.
The power beyond port was plugged on the valve, so I didn’t mess with it, but I do
wonder about a relief valve, whether it has one; if so, whether it’s open all the time since
the power beyond port is plugged and not in use.
I wanted to try it first to see how fast the cylinders worked, and now that I’ve tried it, I do
intend to put flow restrictors in the lines to make them work more slowly and make minor
adjustments easier.
Now this is long enough that I won’t discuss the 6 trips to town (50-60 miles each time),
having to buy a new drill bit, getting a new one that was bent and having to straighten it
with a 4# hammer, forgetting to tighten
one little fitting before starting the engine,
and having to clean up the oil off the floor, and little things like that./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
Bird
