Hydraulic top link use and limitations

[bironacad]

Hydraulic top link use and limitations.

After reading about bush hog tips I decided on getting a hydraulic top link from Princess Auto. Now that I have it I was wondering on how you have put it to use and what limitations it would have.

 

[beenthere]

I don't find any limitations, and use it regularly. Especially when the pallet forks are on the 3 ph. Then when latching and un-latching the iMatch, it is easy to tilt it forward to easily reach without leaning back over the seat (or heaven forbid having to get off the tractor to do it ). It is especially handy when using the rotary cutter for setting the rear deck wheel on the ground and having the option to get the deck high over rocks or stumps.

What are you putting the htl on?

 

[bironacad]

I don't find any limitations, and use it regularly. Especially when the pallet forks are on the 3 ph. Then when latching and un-latching the iMatch, it is easy to tilt it forward to easily reach without leaning back over the seat (or heaven forbid having to get off the tractor to do it ). It is especially handy when using the rotary cutter for setting the rear deck wheel on the ground and having the option to get the deck high over rocks or stumps.

What are you putting the htl on?

I purchased a NH 3045 this past winter (love it by the way) but will be doing some bush hogging this spring/summer. When using my pull behind snow thrower it would have been nice to change the attacking edge of the blower on the fly, a thread on hogging put me over the top for the purchase.

 

[jonyyuma]

Where are the hydraulic top links offered, any different configerations.I want the self contained, i am tired of fighting the hitch and clearance issues with a solid link? Jy.

 

[SSdoxie]

The 3 most commonly referred to in threads here are; Surplus Center, CCM, and Fite Rite Hydraulics. As mentioned earlier when using a Quick Hitch/iMatch it is a dream come true, no more getting off the tractor to line to top pin. Only time I have to get off is with PTO hook up or disconnect.

 

[nickel plate]

When you activate the top link upward to the top of the lifting height with the 3-pt, be careful that the two hoses do not collide with other objects causing a kink. Different angled hose fittings may help prevent this. I'm using what came with the cylinder and keeping a close eye when lifting the 3-pt. May change out the fittings in the future to avoid this.
If you get into switching out multiple hydraulic attachments, color code the hoses and corresponding female remote QCs so you attach them right the first time. I do all of the single rear remote attachment switch outs (I have a grapple and a wood chipper) on the lower first set of remotes where the tilt cylinder is plugged in.

 

[beenthere]

When you activate the top link upward to the top of the lifting height with the 3-pt, be careful that the two hoses do not collide with other objects causing a kink. Different angled hose fittings may help prevent this. I'm using what came with the cylinder and keeping a close eye when lifting the 3-pt. May change out the fittings in the future to avoid this.
...............

nickel
You can turn that hose connection point down and get much better hose rotation. A lot of different combinations by rotating the cylinder and/or rotating the tube that has the valve and connectors on it. Shorter hoses too.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

When you activate the top link upward to the top of the lifting height with the 3-pt, be careful that the two hoses do not collide with other objects causing a kink. Different angled hose fittings may help prevent this. I'm using what came with the cylinder and keeping a close eye when lifting the 3-pt. May change out the fittings in the future to avoid this.
If you get into switching out multiple hydraulic attachments, color code the hoses and corresponding female remote QCs so you attach them right the first time. I do all of the single rear remote attachment switch outs (I have a grapple and a wood chipper) on the lower first set of remotes where the tilt cylinder is plugged in.

Nickel, loosen the check valve, rotate the check valve so that the hoses point to the left side of the tractor. The hoses will make a nice loop and you won't need to get any other fittings. Some 90* fittings would make it nicer, but not really needed. You will no longer have to worry about the hoses hitting anything or getting kinked.

 

[nickel plate]

Nickel, loosen the check valve, rotate the check valve so that the hoses point to the left side of the tractor. The hoses will make a nice loop and you won't need to get any other fittings. Some 90* fittings would make it nicer, but not really needed. You will no longer have to worry about the hoses hitting anything or getting kinked.

There's a nut on each side of what I think is the check valve (where the two hoses attach to the cylinder). Are they pressed to a 37 JIC type of connection or could it possibly be a pipe type connection and in need of re-sealment? I see no evidence of tape or caulk at either nut.

 

[jinman]

On our New Hollands, the way Nickel Plate has his hoses routed with a loop is the best. You DO NOT want to turn that DPOCV downward. See photo:

If you ever get an implement that is prone to rotating forward and over-center, it could smash your DPOCV and hose connections into the PTO shield. This is the voice of experience speaking. I've had two implements that will rotate the toplink over-center and down when the toplink is fully retracted (shortest length). My PTO shield is bent downward where the HTL hit it. If the hoses had been downward, it would have been a disaster instead of something I fixed by pulling the pin and backing up the tractor. I have one boxblade and one middle buster that I have to remember not to shorten the HTL to its minimum length. If your HTL is more than 19.5" retracted, you don't have to worry, but if it is 18" or 18.5" you have to be careful. I know lots of different tractors have different geometry, but I'm just saying on our particular model, it's important to loop the hoses as Nickel Plate did and keep that DPOCV pointed upwards.

BTW: You cannot use your HTL with a post-hole auger. The auger hooks directly to the toplink bracket on the tractor and you have to remove the HTL when digging post holes. It's a snap to remove and disconnect the hoses, so its an easy job, but you asked about limitations and that is one I know of.

 

[beenthere]

jinman
Thanks for the heads up.
But I don't have any attachments that can rotate forward like that, plus I have removed the PTO shield as it is a worthless piece that has no useful benefit.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

There's a nut on each side of what I think is the check valve (where the two hoses attach to the cylinder). Are they pressed to a 37 JIC type of connection or could it possibly be a pipe type connection and in need of re-sealment? I see no evidence of tape or caulk at either nut.

Loosen the nuts that are on the tubing on either side of the check valve, twist the valve 90* and tighten the nuts. You should be all set, there should be no sealant at those points.

 

[bironacad]

On our New Hollands, the way Nickel Plate has his hoses routed with a loop is the best. You DO NOT want to turn that DPOCV downward. See photo:

If you ever get an implement that is prone to rotating forward and over-center, it could smash your DPOCV and hose connections into the PTO shield. This is the voice of experience speaking. I've had two implements that will rotate the toplink over-center and down when the toplink is fully retracted (shortest length). My PTO shield is bent downward where the HTL hit it. If the hoses had been downward, it would have been a disaster instead of something I fixed by pulling the pin and backing up the tractor. I have one boxblade and one middle buster that I have to remember not to shorten the HTL to its minimum length. If your HTL is more than 19.5" retracted, you don't have to worry, but if it is 18" or 18.5" you have to be careful. I know lots of different tractors have different geometry, but I'm just saying on our particular model, it's important to loop the hoses as Nickel Plate did and keep that DPOCV pointed upwards.

BTW: You cannot use your HTL with a post-hole auger. The auger hooks directly to the toplink bracket on the tractor and you have to remove the HTL when digging post holes. It's a snap to remove and disconnect the hoses, so its an easy job, but you asked about limitations and that is one I know of.

Excellent, thanks Jinman, I don't have a box blade, yet lol, but the idea of the equipment coming up and hitting the ports is a warning that I will heed.
I am 18.5" centre to centre with an 8.5" stroke so careful I will try to be, problems with the memory these days, go figure.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Mine is 19" to 29" from Fit Rite Hydraulics. So far I haven't found any interferance problems. On each new set up I try to check all the range of motions before I go to work. I don't have a DPOCV to deal with on mine. Some might consider that a safety issue but I don't see a rear impliment as being any different than a FEL and they don't have DPOCVs. And I have no trouble holding adjustment w/o the DPOCV.
I've just started using my new TnT and find it has enhanced the usefullness of my impliments greatly.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Mine is 19" to 29" from Fit Rite Hydraulics. So far I haven't found any interferance problems. On each new set up I try to check all the range of motions before I go to work. I don't have a DPOCV to deal with on mine. Some might consider that a safety issue but I don't see a rear impliment as being any different than a FEL and they don't have DPOCVs. And I have no trouble holding adjustment w/o the DPOCV.
I've just started using my new TnT and find it has enhanced the usefullness of my impliments greatly.

Gordon, after a few more hours of "TnT" use, you will be wondering how you ever got by without them. :laughing: It is amazing how few people actually even know about top and tilt hydraulics and they are perfectly happy with their manual adjustments. But once they learn about them and especially if they have the opportunity to use them on some other tractor, most people then want them for their own machine. :thumbsup:

 

[bironacad]

Gordon, after a few more hours of "TnT" use, you will be wondering how you ever got by without them. :laughing: It is amazing how few people actually even know about top and tilt hydraulics and they are perfectly happy with their manual adjustments. But once they learn about them and especially if they have the opportunity to use them on some other tractor, most people then want them for their own machine. :thumbsup:

I see it and like it, lol. My wish list grows.:laughing:

 

[JB4310]

I can attest to the interference issue. when I first installed my HTL. I was so excited, didn't even think there could be trouble. I proceeded to lift the 3 pt all the way and actually watched it get crushed :ashamed:

I ordered new tubes and nuts but was able to straighten the bent ones and have had no trouble since.
I fooled around with the lines going different ways and settled for this setup (in 2nd picture), no problems in over 2 years now. even with rear snow blade riding up high on snow banks etc.

I like Beenthere's though and may look into some 90's

Before and after pics.

JB.

 

[bironacad]

What about a hydraulic banjo or swivel attachments? I looked at Princess Auto and could not find them but this seemed a solution to the hoses coming straight out from the tube.

 

[mikim]

I couldn't operate my boxblade without it....or the landscape rake.....or the road grader....I guess I could get along without it on the mower...but why?

 

[nickel plate]

JB4310,
It appears that we have the same cylinder and I see that you flipped the whole DPOCV. I also thought about doing that but not quite brave enough. Was it a painless modification?