Slowpoke Slim
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2017
- Messages
- 3,748
- Location
- Bismarck, ND
- Tractor
- Husqvarna YTH24V48 riding mower, Branson 3725CH
Ok,
As a black powder gun enthusiast, I can tell you that you absolutely DO NOT want to put ether in that breech and try to touch it off.
Good God.
Black powder is a low pressure combustion. Ether is not. Most of the black powder era guns that were destroyed by firing modern smokeless powders in them were killed because 1) the overall pressure of the charge was too great, and 2) the pressure came on much too suddenly for those old iron, steel and brass frames. The "pressure vessel" of your cannon chamber would never stand the ignition of a fast acting fuel source (like ether).
There is a very good chance that there is indeed a charge of powder behind that ball. The reason I say so is because anyone who knows even a little bit about muzzle loading guns knows you never seat a ball on an empty chamber, because as you see yourself, they are a bear to get out. The "cool" thing about black powder is that as long as it's dry, it will still go off after a century of sitting. Even if you get black powder wet, all you have to do is spread it out (like on a blanket or a workbench) and let it air and sun dry fully, and it's ready to go again.
I would approach this problem from the mindset that there IS A POWDER CHARGE in that cannon. Until such time as the ball is out, and you can visually prove/disprove it with your own eyes. So that means NO HEAT. At least not more than say direct sunlight shining on the cannon casing. NO torches, or flames or any other such things.
I like the idea of compressed air, or compressed water and air. You could try to inject some oil into the chamber side, then stand the cannon on it's muzzle so the oil seeps around the circumference of the ball where it's touching the barrel, and then try a shot of compressed air with the cannon still pointing down. If the cannon ball shifted downwards (at least once), then it should shift towards the muzzle as well. Can repeat this part several times to get the ball to move all the way out.
And I agree you should do your best to clean the inner surface of the barrel first. Make it easier to get the ball out once it starts moving.
As a black powder gun enthusiast, I can tell you that you absolutely DO NOT want to put ether in that breech and try to touch it off.
Good God.
Black powder is a low pressure combustion. Ether is not. Most of the black powder era guns that were destroyed by firing modern smokeless powders in them were killed because 1) the overall pressure of the charge was too great, and 2) the pressure came on much too suddenly for those old iron, steel and brass frames. The "pressure vessel" of your cannon chamber would never stand the ignition of a fast acting fuel source (like ether).
There is a very good chance that there is indeed a charge of powder behind that ball. The reason I say so is because anyone who knows even a little bit about muzzle loading guns knows you never seat a ball on an empty chamber, because as you see yourself, they are a bear to get out. The "cool" thing about black powder is that as long as it's dry, it will still go off after a century of sitting. Even if you get black powder wet, all you have to do is spread it out (like on a blanket or a workbench) and let it air and sun dry fully, and it's ready to go again.
I would approach this problem from the mindset that there IS A POWDER CHARGE in that cannon. Until such time as the ball is out, and you can visually prove/disprove it with your own eyes. So that means NO HEAT. At least not more than say direct sunlight shining on the cannon casing. NO torches, or flames or any other such things.
I like the idea of compressed air, or compressed water and air. You could try to inject some oil into the chamber side, then stand the cannon on it's muzzle so the oil seeps around the circumference of the ball where it's touching the barrel, and then try a shot of compressed air with the cannon still pointing down. If the cannon ball shifted downwards (at least once), then it should shift towards the muzzle as well. Can repeat this part several times to get the ball to move all the way out.
And I agree you should do your best to clean the inner surface of the barrel first. Make it easier to get the ball out once it starts moving.