Idiot light

   / Idiot light #41  
I took a look at your portfolio MLD, and you do good work. One of my wife's nephews is an animator in Oregon, and her niece is an artist.

I interviewed a geotechnical/structural engineering firm today to get a feel for the company's work for the house we hope to build within the next few years. Overall the company made a decent impression on me; but the thing that bothered me was the principal of the company that I talked with had a habit of avoiding direct eye contact.

Then I stopped in at trailer dealer, and the owner seemed only half interested in talkking with me. It wasn't like he had a lot to do as I was the only customer in the joint at the time.

Last I stopped in the next closest Deere dealer to our property to get a feel for the dealership. The sales gal was relatively knowledgable on the 4720 cab tractor I looked at, except she didn't know what Top-n-Tilt was, or the difference between the CX and X series loaders. I've seen worse salesmen who had no clue about the product they were trying to sell me.

Unfortunately the car and related sales business has developed a bad habit of lying to customers to make a sale instead of fostering long term relationships.
 
   / Idiot light #42  
Have you discussed the problem with the guy you bought the tractor from MLD?
If the tractor is "dealer maintained" and sold privately by the manager of the dealership, the manager is only the middle man. I wonder was the tractor maintained by the dealership you bought it from?

I have seen similar things over here. A guy goes into his buddys dealership and ask his dealer buddy to sell a car for him. Most cases, the dealer will sell that car as is, no warranty given as the vehicle is being sold privately on behalf of the owner...

Does this describe your situation?

If it were me, I would STILL go back to the dealership with this. If you have a decent honest tractor dealer who is interested in your custom down the road, he may stand over it just to keep you sweet. If not, go to another kubota dealer, tell him just how badly you've been treated by the first dealer and you are looking for honest to goodness patriotic american service (wave a flag if you must)... That dealer might help you out, to win your custom...
I hope mj's above description of dealers habits is not an epidemic all over the US.

I still stand over what I said earlier in this thread, DONT WORRY ABOUT IT! It can be fixed, its only a machine. Some people can get worked up over stuff like this and I hate to see that happen. There is most likely a simple fix to your problem.

I would hate to think the owner of the tractor offered this machine up for sale knowing it had a problem but chose to withhold that information.... that is the lowest of the low if you ask me.

The B7100 I bought last year has blow by, (excessive gasses blowing from the crankcase breather, most likely due to engine wear). Due to inexperience, I didnt realise this until after I bought it. I dont know if the seller knew it had this problem when he was selling it to me. I havent given it much thought really, lifes too short.
I may have to recondition the engine just to get the problem resolved but I am putting a positive spin on it... I didnt buy a brand new €20,000 tractor... I bought a 20+ year old tractor for very little money. Obviously a 20+ year old tractor has a higher risk of developing mechanical problems somewhere down the line.... This has to be expected.

At the moment, my bota is still doing tremendous work around my place so I am not in a hurry to tear it down... I still believe you will be delighted with your 7100 when you get the oil problem resolved.

I wish you luck (Irish luck at that) in resolving your problem.

B
 
Last edited:
   / Idiot light #43  
You've probably got a 50/50 chance of the manager actually knowing about the problem. I would go in and talk to the guy about it. Tell him the problem and how you diagnosed it. You'll get either one of two answers:

- I'm sorry, let see what we can do to fix it
or
- Its your problem now pal.

If he goes with the first, work with him on it and remember its a used tractor. Try to come up with a reasonable solution that is fair to both of you. Like split the cost of repair at the dealership or something.

If he goes with the second answer, then he knew there was a problem. Get creative here. Personally, my first reaction would be to shove the tractor up his .... you get the point.
 
   / Idiot light #44  
Tallyho8:
This maybe unbelievable but when you referred to this: pain in the ***, nothin' but problems, haven't even used it yet kubota I had a twinge of resentment at the term "dog" that you used to describe my tractor. I'm an Idiot and a sap.
The second part of your reply is right on the button and my thoughts exactly, so stay tuned for more updates probably in a week or so.
MLD

I apologize for the reference but I was just speaking in generalizations and I am not proficient enough in my writings to be as subtle as I should be in some situations. :eek:
 
   / Idiot light #45  
Pressure is pressure... there is no 'flow' in the sender.. so once any air voids are removed in the 'T' line to the gauge.. both the sender and the gauge should 'see' the same pressure.

soundguy

Air in the line will be compressed to the same pressure as oil and SHOULD NOT cause a different reading. Bleed it if it makes you feel better but not because it is required. Don't believe it? What would prevent the air from compressing to the same pressure as the oil, MAGIC?

Pat
 
   / Idiot light #46  
I checked the IT book that I have for my B7100 and the oil pressure range for checking the oil pump is between 28 and 64 PSI. Now if that oil sending unit does not come on until I believe someone wrote 7 pounds or less than you have sufficent oil pressure according to the factory. The sending unit is working unless it is a bad one which we all know can happen in new parts sometime. Now your friend that put his thumb over the outlet on the tee and you said he could pretty much hold the oil back. Well just for the **** of it I went into my shop and turned the regulator down on my air compessor to 28 or 30 pounds, took the air nozzle removed the end put my thumb on it and pressed the trigger. I could hardly tell that there was any pressure coming out. I could certainly hold it back so, I kept turning it up. It was not until I got to about 55 PSI that I would say it was starting to push my thumb off pretty good. Enough that if it was oil I would have gotten sprayed if I tried to hold it back on an engine. What I'm trying to say is I would not put much faith in the thumb test on your tee. Use the new sending unit and if the oil light does not come on then your within the pressure range of the factory setting. I'm sure your tractor does not have the pressure of a new one anymore than mine does with their age factored in. Even if it is at 28PSI you would not think there was any pressure because it feels like nothing at all but you still have enough oil pressure, albiet on the low end. If it does not sound like a can of loose bolts banging around and knocking then your engine is probably Ok. I just can't believe you would not hear it if the engine was not getting oil pressure.........especially in a diesel.
Hope this helps, Scott
 
   / Idiot light #47  
Irwin:
To answer your question, no, we did not wait for the light to come on. When we took off the gauge we had a direct line to the engine and my buddy who knows about such things said shut it down because the light pressure from his finger would almost stop the flow of oil.

MLD

The sending unit is working unless it is a bad one which we all know can happen in new parts sometime. Now your friend that put his thumb over the outlet on the tee and you said he could pretty much hold the oil back. Well just for the **** of it I went into my shop and turned the regulator down on my air compessor to 28 or 30 pounds, took the air nozzle removed the end put my thumb on it and pressed the trigger. I could hardly tell that there was any pressure coming out. I could certainly hold it back so, I kept turning it up. It was not until I got to about 55 PSI that I would say it was starting to push my thumb off pretty good. , Scott

Although air and oil have very different properties....what was said has merit.

What I was getting at is, at my shop, over the last few decades, I've run into many situation where the tests were interferring with the diagnosis...
I agree with furnacebrook...just to see what happens.. get the tee off the line and run it with the new sender..let's see what happens.

Recently one of my techs was scratching his head over an electrical problem, ..his test showed the switch as good, so he went on. Before I let him rip out a harness to isolate the short, I went over the tests with him..he was right the test showed the switch good..I tested it and it was bad..well I pushed the contact one way when tested, he was pushing the lead of his meter the other...it was a broken contact in the connector(the connector is part of the switch)..it shorted when pushed one way and functioned normally when pushed the other. Replace switch.. all good...I know this is a completely different situation..except for this truth.

The problem is usually something simple..(not all the time)

If the o/p sender was obviously new, I'd suspect the seller tried it already, if it was obviously original...I'd think it could be the problem. (Keeping in mind you may have an internal engine issue), I'd try just to see what happens.
No reading on the gauge is suspect..not normal, even when it's an oil pressure problem I'd expect to see pressure when the engine is cold..some kind of pressure..20-15 psi..something...not zero.(unless the engine was rapping, and it would be knocking with no pressure)..

If the idiot light comes on like before then you most likely do have low pressure... if that's the case. I have run across a stuck relief valve on a oil pump, that can cause very low o/pressure...

BigE said:
I ran into a similar situation when I bought my tractor. See
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/n...-low-rpms.html

It turned out to be a plugged pressure relief valve. Maybe give that a shot?
 
   / Idiot light #48  
I believe i noticed in there where the original poster said the gauge moved just a smidgin at one point. I am curious what the minimum reading on the guage he used is. I might get me a gauge with a minimum and maximum of half of what the gauge he has is and see if i could get to a point where I have a reading. If you dont want to get a new gauge then take the pressure gauge off put a bucket kind of under and around where the gauge was and have one guy start the tractor while the other watches to see if oil comes shooting out. Even at 10 psi it should still come squirting out not kind of dribbling. If no oil then you have a problem that can be anything from minor to major but running with no oil pressure rapidly becomes major. If no oil pressure at all shut it off put it back to normal and have a chat with the dealer. If he told you that there was nothing wrong with it then he has an implied merchantibility issue. Unless you have something in writing some where saying that you realize it might be broke and you will take it like it is, there is an implication that when you take it home it will be available to do the type of work that it was designed to do. It might break the next day after you bring it home but when you bring it home it should be able to work. Dont tell dealer you tried anything but replacing the sending unit. If dealer wont talk about it go to small claims court. The amount of money you are talking about I am fairly certain will fall within the small claims maximum in any state. Go pay your money to have the dealer served. Even if it was sold for someone else, if you paid the dealer it was his sale. Small claims judges are a bit different. They listen to both sides (neither one of which is allowed to have a lawyer in arkansas) and make a decision. If you win then you win the amount you are claiming plus you win your fileing fees. If you go to small claims court your dealer might decide to fix it instead of paying your money back. Either way you will be ahead.
 
   / Idiot light #49  
Air in the line will be compressed to the same pressure as oil and SHOULD NOT cause a different reading. Bleed it if it makes you feel better but not because it is required. Don't believe it? What would prevent the air from compressing to the same pressure as the oil, MAGIC?

Pat

While I agree you don't need to bleed an oil pressure gauge, I didn't bleed mine and it works fine.

But that last part, air will compress nicely, I'm not a chemical engineer, but most liquids do not compress. That's why we use to test drilling pipe with water, not air.

Also recall the Mythbusters and exploding water heater. Full or 3/4 full of water, add lots of heat and you get a thud, nothing compresses. But when they only put in 1/4 water and heated it up, kaboom!


Rob
 
   / Idiot light #50  
there is an implication that when you take it home it will be available to do the type of work that it was designed to do. It might break the next day after you bring it home but when you bring it home it should be able to work. Dont tell dealer you tried anything but replacing the sending unit. If dealer wont talk about it go to small claims court. The amount of money you are talking about I am fairly certain will fall within the small claims maximum in any state. Go pay your money to have the dealer served. Even if it was sold for someone else, if you paid the dealer it was his sale. Small claims judges are a bit different. They listen to both sides (neither one of which is allowed to have a lawyer in arkansas) and make a decision. If you win then you win the amount you are claiming plus you win your fileing fees. If you go to small claims court your dealer might decide to fix it instead of paying your money back. Either way you will be ahead.

Buy used, buyer beware. Buy used and you are buying someone elses troubles. These old sayings didn't come out of nowhere. I bought my tractor used and checked it as good as I could. But if something broke the first day I wasn't going to court. It's a 1999 model with 1200 hours in it. I got what I paid for. On the other hand, it worked out well in my case.

Going to court you forgot to mention you can loose and have to pay. Dude can say, hey it worked fine for me and this guy was practically begging me to sell it.

Just fix it and enjoy it!! :D
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

BUYERS PREMIUM & PAYMENT TERMS (A51222)
BUYERS PREMIUM &...
2019 JOHN DEERE 317G SKID STEER (A51242)
2019 JOHN DEERE...
12 ft Chisel Plow with Rolling Baskets (A52128)
12 ft Chisel Plow...
2019 HINO 268 26FT BOX TRUCK (A52141)
2019 HINO 268 26FT...
2017 Nissan Maxima Sedan (A50324)
2017 Nissan Maxima...
2016 CATERPILLAR TL642C TELESCOPIC FORKLIFT (A51242)
2016 CATERPILLAR...
 
Top