Inexpensive mouse trap

[PILOON]

An even easier 'trap' along same lines that I used.
Simple 5 gal plastic bucket with hand full of popcorn in the bottom and placed touching my stone fireplace.
No water, just corn kernals in bottom.
Little guys climb the stone face, jump in for lunch and simply can not jump out.
Downside is all you hear is jump-plop, jump-plop for the rest of the night!
Caught something like 70 or so one fall in the old log cabin.

 

[stratton]

I use to go to a hunting camp on weekends. We used a similar set up. But we also put a little peanut butter on the ramp. Seemed to help more.

 

[moored4]

Be aware that antifreeze tastes sweet and kills any animal (like dogs and cats) that drink it.

You could use RV antifreez, That should not kill anthing, I don't know how it tast!:licking:

 

[merrickvilleguy]

OK all, I finally got my mouse bucket built. First night and no mice..hmm wonder if they have too much grass seed hid. Does this look OK or do I need to addjust any thing?

I usually use a pop can with a ring of peanut butter in the center ... they go after it and the thing spins and drown they go

 

[JRobyn]

ZOMBIE THREAD ALERT - I'm going to try a couple of these. I used Rotel cans, punched holes in opposite sides (to preserve balance) of each end with a regular old-style can "punch" opener. I had to rod out the Rotel pulp with a chopstick. Tomato sauce or beef/chicken broth cans probably would have been better in hindsight, but the Rotel can size seemed just right. Cut a little circular cardboard template to drill EXACTLY in the middle of each end. So the can spins perfectly with next to no effort.

Now for my questions for experienced users:

1) what is the best distance down in the bucket for the can? This seems that it would be critical to prevent mice from stretching out from the up-ramp or the bucket rim and robbing the bait without slipping in. The designs I have seen on the web vary, but typical looks to be having the TOP of the can just below the top rim of the bucket, maybe 1/2"-1".

2) how far should the up-ramp extend past the rim of the bucket, and should it be aligned with the can "axle", or perpendicular to it?

3) would squared off cat litter buckets work fine instead of round? I can't think of any reason they wouldn't.

- Jay

 

[PILOON]

There is no rocket science involved.
Any bucket, pail or container that is about 18" high with access be it an adjacent wall that mice can climb (wood, brick etc) or a mere board leaning on side of the container to act as a ramp.
As to bait, corn kernels (pop corn) peanut butter etc work great as will most any grains.
For some reason PB seems to be the the all around ideal bait.

 

[Travelover]

...........For some reason PB seems to be the the all around ideal bait.

Some guy on You Tube swears that TootsieRolls make the ideal bait for snap traps. I stuck them on my traps and on the first warm day, they all puddled.

 

[JRobyn]

Update: Didn't see anything about distance below the top of the bucket, so I guessed at about 1/2" - 1". Turned out pretty good, I think. I made ramps out of 24" long strips off a 2x4 and placed a single screw about 2" down from one end to hang on the edge of the bucket. This makes for a 2" long "diving board" that is just about 1 mouse length from the nearest edge of the can.



Used a couple of small nuts on each end for "bearings".



Made 5 traps. We've caught several victims so far in the attic and in the in-law's shed where he keeps horse feed. Didn't really expect to catch a lot right now since it is warm and there should be plentiful food outside. But they're built, tested, and ready to go this fall!



Note: If these are used in an attic in the summertime and you don't use antifreeze or some form of preservative in the water, your victims WILL slowly parboil and putrify in the heat. So they still need to be checked every day or two. Else, your wife gets disgusted when she goes to check and empty them! :irked:

- Jay