Insulation for shop ceiling

[GPintheMitten]

If money is tight I think your least cost will be putting up 2x4s two foot on centers then drywall. Of course your going to need the vapor barrier regardless of what material you put up.

I don't think I would put up a lot of insulation, unless you work there 8 hours every day year round. I read one guy talked about putting in 2 feet of insulation. I wouldn't do half that much for occasional use but maybe 6".

But it is something you can add to if your usage increases

 

[hhsco]

Another option that would save moving your lights and keep you from putting in a ceiling at all would be to get foamed-in-place closed-cell insulation applied to the underside of the roof. Adds a ton of r-value with just a few inches as well as adding strength if you're in a windy spot. The foam is more expensive than the blown-in or fiberglass, but it might even out with the cost of installing a ceiling and insulating that. Of course, you'd have more space to keep warm but man that foam is TIGHT. Drop a ceiling fan in there and move the air around and your 150k heater wouldn't have a problem i don't think.
Just an idea, might not give you the finish you're looking for. Also, you'd probably need to hire out the job as that is a pretty big area and way up the air for one guy with tigerfoam kits.

 

[GPintheMitten]

30 x 40 seems huge for a workshop. Do you really use it all for workshop?

 

[AGRIMAN]

K

Another option that would save moving your lights and keep you from putting in a ceiling at all would be to get foamed-in-place closed-cell insulation applied to the underside of the roof. Adds a ton of r-value with just a few inches as well as adding strength if you're in a windy spot. The foam is more expensive than the blown-in or fiberglass, but it might even out with the cost of installing a ceiling and insulating that. Of course, you'd have more space to keep warm but man that foam is TIGHT. Drop a ceiling fan in there and move the air around and your 150k heater wouldn't have a problem i don't think.
Just an idea, might not give you the finish you're looking for. Also, you'd probably need to hire out the job as that is a pretty big area and way up the air for one guy with tigerfoam kits.

Agree, I was going to suggest the same thing.

 

[Code54]

I did price out having it sprayed and they wanted close to $3500 for less than 2"s so I thought that was a lot. I was thinking the lower ceiling would help since I don't have as much space in there to heat and don't use that space for anything.
Basically I use the entire 30x40 but only walk over and flip on the heat about an hour or two before I am going over to work. (today it was about 40 out and had the bldg at 65 in less than 2 hrs) I normally keep my truck in the building but often move it outdoors to work if I need a second full bay. Also store 2 SxS's in there but they are easily moved around depending on what I am doing. Across the back I have my short range archery range so I can shoot when it is too cold out - also helps for tuning bows and such.
So I really do use it all - different ways on different days - today I have the truck sitting outside because I have tarps every which way so I could spray bedliner on a current project.

 

[KennyG]

What do you consider the "normal" going rate for the metal? I have to look into and it find someone locally that even sells it.
Thanks

I'm sure you have metal suppliers locally. The pole barn builders have to get it somewhere. Menards, Lowes, etc, also have it available. Make sure you ask for liner panel which is cheaper than roofing/siding. It's still 29 gauge but doesn't have the special 40 year exterior coating. When you add in the J-strips for the edges and the fasteners, I usually figure it at about $1 per square foot. Don't forget to plan to frame in an attic access opening.

 

[Kenneth in Texas]

3 months ago I bought 26 gauge R-panel for $2.20 per foot for colors and $1.75 per foot for galvanized. Many places wanted as much as $2.85 per foot for the colors.

 

[Code54]

Thank you!
I may start looking for it tomorrow if all goes as planned.

 

[Code54]

Anyone have any photos of the metal installed they wouldn't mind sharing?
THANKS

 

[gsganzer]

Definitely look at metal, either R-panels or plain corrugated. The benefit is that it's installed and finished all in one step, with the added benefit of being fire resistant. They sell rolled fiberglass in 3" through 6" thickness and 3' and 6' widths with a vapor barrier.

I have a 30 x 40 metal building that I converted 1/2 of it into an in-law apartment (20 x 30, 600 sq/ft). I used the original weathered corrugated roof metal as the ceiling in the in-law apartment and it looks great.

My metal building was all metal, including metal pipe trusses. I simply welded 2" square tube on the UNDER side of the trusses spaced every 20". This way I avoided having to box around any of the trusses. It was the smartest and most time conserving decision I made when making the in-law apartment. I used 6" blanket insulation over the top.

One thing I did was to put up some angle "trim" around the perimeter. This helped make up for things not being square and my building was grossly unsquare and unlevel. It also allowed me better means for sealing. I shot great stuff foam between the overlap of the trim and the panel and the trim and the wall.

These photos are with me cell, Let me know if you need additional photos or details.

 

[Code54]

I like the trim idea - sure would make it easier to install and hide any little errors

 

[gsganzer]

I like the trim idea - sure would make it easier to install and hide any little errors

It was just simple flashing. Yes, definitely saved me from a ton of detail cutting which never would have been perfect anyway.

 

[KennyG]

Anyone have any photos of the metal installed they wouldn't mind sharing?
THANKS

Take a look at the Post #3 in this thread.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/333644-pole-barn-renovation.html

 

[KennyG]

Just saw that Menards has a 3 day sale on liner panel. $1.43 per linear foot (36 inch wide coverage). Works out to about 45 cents per square foot. Hard to beat that.

 

[Code54]

That is good! Man I wish we had one around here, stye seem to have some good sales!!

 

[teejk]

Take a look at the Post #3 in this thread.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/333644-pole-barn-renovation.html

Mine looks like that so no need to take a picture. My finished space is 30'x40'...10' ht. Like you my builder installed a poly vapor barrier first. He refused to use liner panel and went with gloss white building steel but the building itself uses trusses 8'OC so the added thickness/stiffness worked better. He used 24' and 16' long panels so only 2 pieces to cover the 40' run. I installed two banks of T8 fixtures "ganged" together (3 8' double bulb for a total of 12 bulbs per bank) centered on the ceiling (8' gap on either end) using external conduit. I switched the banks separately. The gloss white provides ample light even for my tired eyes. On top we formed a "bank" on the perimeter using thick fiberglass batts then filled the middle with blown in material (the batts serving as a block from the blown-in material getting into the soffits). We brought it to R50 on the ceiling (still not enough it seems but we're in Wisconsin and it's never enough at times). Be back with some hints for anybody doing steel.

 

[teejk]

Using steel...nifty trick I learned from the builder. Stack several sheets of your material on a suitable support keeping the ends even, measure your screw locations (spaced according to your rafter/truss distance and next to each major "rib" on the steel...3 as I recall on a 3' panel) then use a pointed punch and hammer to form a dent. Hit properly you'll see the dents through several sheets. When the dents start to get faint, add new sheets under the dented ones and hit them again. He was in the business for years and apparently "drilling" was not only time consuming it led to premature rusting (for him meant "warranty" repairs) because of the heat from the drill bits. The added benefit is you measure once and can be assured of the holes being in a straight line (assumes your building is square and your trusses/rafters are set properly) with no chalk/pencil lines. Now for the part I forget...I had the builder install 2x4's along my 40' run, 10' from the side walls to serve as "nailers" for the lighting. As I recall they were installed on the top of the bottom cord and we used long screws on the lights to get into them. The only other thing I can think of is you will need small pieces of wood to mount any fixtures...the "ribs" on steel stand about 3/4" high from the panel. No big deal...just something to think about.

 

[Code54]

Thanks Teejk - good info!

 

[teejk]

Thanks Teejk - good info!

Now you are making me think I need to send a picture of my shop! Tomorrow!

 

[Code54]

Thanks!!