Thanks for the write up, Ron. Speed is not a concern for me, but I am concerned with the FEL capacity. The BH is about an $8000 option, which is why I basically dismissed it, especially when I could probably do most of my required digging with a tree scoop/spade on the FEL bucket. I like the idea of a smaller tractor on my small property, especially regarding the FEL bucket size. A 66" bucket might be difficult to maneuver around.THE VOICE OF EXPERIENCE: As I have one, naturally I am biased toward the BXs. Mine is a 25, 2011 vintage, with 1500 hours on it, mostly doing a lot of what you contemplate. Its small size is an advantage when working in tight spaces.If time is your enemy then get a bigger one, but you mention a multi year project, so! No matter what you get be sure to add a tooth bar on the FEL, makes a non-digger into a digger. I made mine; more agressive than you can buy. After the warranty expires raise the HYD pressure to 2000#, huge difference. Most projects I never get over 2200 RPM and have plenty of power. Wide open the BXs tend to get a little jerky, especially the BH. If you are doing irrigation, digging out trees and stumps and bigger rocks, planting trees you will kick your self if you do not have the BH. Thought I would never need it but it now gets used a lot. When you have it you will find misc things to do with it like moving tree logs and big rocks. I would definitely use my BX for your type projects as I am not in a hurry. Get 4 forks for the bucket and you will be amazed at how much brush and limbs you can pickup and haul.
Bite the bullet on the top soil. Subdivisions around here scalp the top soil as it has high value. The county makes them add amendments to the sandy/rocky soil before planting as a lawn in the front yard is a required item for final inspection. The requirement is for a 2" base of amended soil. The grass never gets looking nice as the root is too shallow and it never gets to be a lush sod. Even sod has to have a good top soil base or it will also fail as the roots have nowhere to go in that sand. As mentioned before rocks will keep on coming up if you till so don't bother, especially around the trees and stuff as you will damage the roots and be continually be unwinding them from the tiller tines. There are some good ideas in the previous posts just temperate the wheat from the chaff. At my last place I had a huge garden plot that had a lot of humus to begin with, about 6" on top of that sandy/rocky sub-grade. The rocks had migrated up into it. Over 8 years I tilled and tilled it added another 4" of compost tilled in, great garden soil. Every time I tilled I dug up more rocks. I made a path down the center of the garden with the rocks; 6' wide 80' long and 6" deep at the end of the 8 years when I sold out. Rocks! Rocks! you never get rid of them. I probably dug 500' of trenches for various water, power, comm lines, storm drains, and sewre drains in making improvements to the property.
Sorry about the long winded story but trying to give you info to help decision making. The new BX23S has a lot of improvements, around here you can buy one for between 17,000 and 20,000 depending on add-ons. Definetly get the KTAC insurance, they did a damage claim for me to the tune of $8K that had nothing to do with the machine size or overloading it.
Ron
As far as the soil composition goes, I'll get it tested professionally and see what they have to say. I had top soil bought in when I seeded my front lawn and my grass still disintegrates by the end of August. I'm not saying that's the fault of the top soil, but it's not a panacea, and I have to get to the root (pun intended) of the issue. I've lost all faith in professional landscapers, so I'm trying to do everything myself now.
Good tip on increasing the pressure, I'll consider that.
Do you use the BX to mow the 3/4 acre property? I was initially not considering getting the mowing deck, but it sure would be nice during leaf cleanup season.Another voice of experience, with ownership if a BX25 since 2008. A lovely machine, and I use it on two properties, one of which is 25 acres and one of which is 3/4 of an acre.
Ryan, I am very interested in the fact that you bumped up the pressure to 2000. I measured mine and it was exactly on spec at 1700. But I am paranoid about bumping it up that high. Has anyone else done this, and has anyone had any holes bursting or other problems? If not I think I'm going to do the same as Ron. And Ron, did you happen to measure or notice how much your lift capacity increased on the FEL? And how about the effects on the front tires and front suspension?
Just put it on my tabMy consultant's invoice will show how aware I am of being helpful. Double time today; its a holiday.
One FEL, LA525; two bucket options: 1) standard and 2) light materials bucket.
SSQA is a separate option.
This stuff is only confusing the first one hundred times you study it.
Increasing your consumption of rice may speed cognition.
Are you over $10,000 yet?
However, message received - I went to the deal to get some of these questions answered. You definitely deserve the commission. I got a quote for the L2501 they had on the lot, and it didn't even itemize the options equipped. The salesman just said it's got everything I would want. He's probably right, but I'd like to know what I'm getting. FYI it was $19.8k for the 4wd HST with the FEL. $500 cheaper if I don't finance.
As an engineer, this is the longest relationship I've ever had with someone from marketing/sales.During my working years I was in sales and marketing.
It is an adage in marketing: ANTICIPATION IS 50% OF SATISFACTION.
I'm just messing around, we don't actually have a marketing/sales department. I'm one of those rare engineers who doesn't make a consumer product.
Know that pallet forks are available for the Three Point Hitch at the rear.
LINK: King Kutter Tractor 3 point hitch Pallet Mover pallet fork attachment
L2501 Three Point Hitch lift capacity 24" behind eyes (center of a 48" pallet) 1,389 pounds, including weight of forks.
If your ground is flat, you can drag your pallet of bricks a reasonable distance using is 1/4" or 5/16" Grade 70 chain attached to tractor rear/center drawbar. The oversize rear wheels provide tremendous mechanical advantage when pulling any type of load. (1/4" Grade 70 chain would be my choice.)
Some buy the engine hood of an old car at a salvage yard, using the hood as a sled to pull heavy boulders or other heavy stuff.
Now that's a good idea! I have not considered dragging a load like that. it could get tricky on some slope parts, but it would introduce me to the new neighbors after I need to retrieve a boulder from their yard.