Is This Indicative of the 3032E/3038E's Capabilities?

[Verticaltrx]

Let me preface this by saying I love Deere equipment, we have a 265, 5045e, 2550 and tons of JD hay, tillage and mowing equipment. Also a Kubota ZD21, B3200 and M9540.


About the Deere 3032e vs Kubota L3200 (or the 38hp models), I personally was much more impressed with the Kubota models, both the B3200 and L3200. I looked over all the tractors in this size range between Deere and Kubota (both gear and HST) and decided on the B3200. However, for heavier work I'd have gone with the L3200. There are things that are nice about the 3032e, but being a long time tractor operator there were several things that really turned me off (no turning brakes, weird diff lock/brake pedal combo, non-removable loader and some other minor things). Honestly I was looking more closely at the 3005 even though it wasn't HST.

Again, not trying to bash, I like Deere tractors as much as anyone in this forum. I'd gladly have bought and a 3032e if the price was low enough, but personally I went with Kubota on this one.

 

[s219]

Your opinion is confusing. There is another thread here that shows someone paying less than $19k for a 1026r TLB. last time I checked Kubota's BX25 was no where near the machine for not much price difference. And I can back my opinion up because I just traded a BX25 for a 1026R. Hands down not even in the same league. The Kubota is a much weaker, lighter machine, both in pulling power and hydraulics. Go back to the Kubota forums and wine

The 1026R is a fine sub-compact (I shopped it very seriously), but for similar money you can step up to a compact in other brands and get more capabilities per $. My impression of the JD 1-series is that they are one of the best sub-compacts that you can buy right now, but they are also priced like they're the best, so they are not a great value. If anything, the 1026 pricing proves LD1's point, so it's not the best example to use.

 

[slayer94165]

I have a john deere 3032e with fel and filled r4 .i was re doing my driveway and was using 5 ft box blade and could pull it when it was full of gravel and not spin the tires . when i was makeing a trail though the woods i was leveling with box blade and had the teeth down or what ever you call them things if i hit a good size root it would stop the tractor or going up hill i would start to spin .I picked up a bucket full of dirt and kept it as low to the ground and that helped alot on the hills .

 

[Wolfman]

Some say the Deere paint may cost you thousands extra, but I've found it to be cheaper than the Kubota's when I've compared quite a few times, so at least in my area, it's far from the truth.

This what I have found as well. I have looked at the brands that were available in my area, and John Deere seems to come in cheaper. My local TX Deere dealer, Ag-Power, has 12 locations and have pretty much saturated the area. They seem to have a pretty good volume of sales, and as a result offer pretty good pricing right from the start. A lot of other dealers I have spoken to would start out quoting MSRP. The local Deere dealership is one of the nicest dealership/showrooms I have seen (including high end auto dealerships). When I walk in, I feel like its a giant toy store (actually they have a large toy area as well that the kids like to look at also).

To be honest, I have always been a Massey Ferguson guy. For the same price points, their machines seemed to weigh more and lift more. When I was in NH, my local dealer, Northwood Power Equipment, was fantastic and purchasing from them was a great experience (which actually spoiled me when I started looking at tractors here in TX). I spoke with a member here, jlsmith from S&W Tractor company, and he was great to work with and offered a very nice deal. If it wasn't for the fact that the dealership was so far from where I live I would have definitely gone Massey and purchased from him. In the end, though, I decided that I wanted to deal locally where I could stop by the dealership easily if I wanted/needed to.

I also wanted to purchase from a place where I could buy all of my outdoor power equipment in one place, so that I would only have on place to deal with for service/warranty work. This left me with only a choice between John Deere (Stihl), Kubota (Husqvarna) and New Holland (Cub Cadet). Of the three, John Deere had the models closest to what I was looking for, the best price, and the nicest dealership - pretty much a grand slam.

This will be the first Deere that I have ever owned. I was also under the impression that John Deere would be overpriced compared to the competition - but I am finding that it is just not true (at least for the models I am looking at - 3032(8)E and 5045D).

Regardless, I thank everyone for giving their insights on the capabilities of the 3038E, and the video showing it in action.

 

[DKCDKC]

I have a 3038E - purchased after careful consideration of NH, Kioti and Kubota equivalent unites. My JD, when financing was factored in, was cheaper. But one of the biggest reasons to buy a given brand seems to be rarely mentioned - the dealer. Tractor buyers, particularly those first-timers or those without a big shop, should go for the dealer with the best rep around. It will be important down the road.

I find my 3038e will pull a 5 foot box blade full on my gravel drive and, tipped forward, do a pretty good job at tilling the garden. It runs a 5 foot bush hog without strain, and is a lot easier to maneuver than my old geared JD.

As for tires, I have ag tires. I suggest folks speak with folks around their area who use tractors as they will, and get advice or tires and tire pressures. Around the Shenandoah Valley, mud is an issue all winter. Ag tires handle the mud here far, far better than any industrial or turf tires. But that can vary by geographic area and types of us. Ag tires are not good for heavy FEL use.

Any tractor or tire decision can vary by area based on a host of individual, dealer and soil conditions. A little homework will unearth the best bet.

 

[Turbys_1700]

I have a NH 1720...
It weighs 2800#...
With loaded tires it weighs 3300#...
With that weight, a 28 HP 4 wheel assist tractor can move a lot of dirt...
To me, 3000# to 3500# is the sweet spot for both mowing and utility work...
My dad has an 8' rhino scrape blade that my tractor will handily very easily...
My 5' implements are handled well also...
Personally, I would want a little heavier tractor than the 3000 series...