J.J. Rear Remote Hyd. Return Line ??

puckgrinder85 · Feb 9, 2014

You're really not suppose to use the out as a pressure for something else down the line, that's what PB is for. Although our tractor is plumbed this way as well and has been working fine for some 250hrs. Again it was because someone was lazy. We figured we'd run it to see how much the valve can take and no issues thus far.

L3450 · Feb 9, 2014

Okay ishiboo & JJ if I understand correctly now I should get the PB fitting for my loader valve asap and re-plumb as follows until I add a new spool (single or double)

Out port on block to in port on loader valve (already done by dealer)

PB port on loader valve to "in" port on Hyd. block

"Out" port on loader valve to large plug / port on hyd. block (indicated by green arrow in picture)
to make things right till summer when I install rear remotes ??

Once I install the rear remotes I simply need to plumb.....

Loader valve PB to new valve "in port"

PB port on new valve to "in port" on hyd. block

"out port on new valve then Tee' into the drain from loader valve at the large plug indicated by green arrow in picture .

Does this sound right ??

J_J · Feb 9, 2014

No, not exactly.

The PB from the loader should feed the hyd block, and the hyd block feeds the 3pt.

So what you need to do is to fit the remote valve between the hyd block and the 3pt line.

The remote PB out will feed the 3pt.

Now, everything will be is series.and should work correctly.

All OUT lines can be teed together.

ishiboo · Feb 9, 2014

J_J said:
No, not exactly.

The PB from the loader should feeds the hyd block, and the hyd block feeds the 3pt.

So what you need to do is to fit the remote valve between the hyd block and the 3pt line.

The remote PB out will feed the 3pt.

Now, everything will be is series.and should work correctly.

All OUT lines can be teed together.

Bad idea IMHO. It does not matter where in the series it goes. If you do it as you propose, you will have to cut one of the hard lines to the 3 point and deal with either brazing or using compression fittings to fit in some connections in a poorly accessible location. In addition, you will need an additional means to bypass this if you ever remove the valve for any reason.

It can much more easily be added between the "OUT" on the hydraulic block and "IN" on the loader valve, or between the "power beyond" on the loader valve and the "in" on the hydraulic block. These are 3/8 NPT pipe threads connecting to hoses you can much more easily deal with. Both the "IN" and "OUT" on my hydraulic block as well as L3450s would have quick connects for a factory loader, I simply changed these over to ISO Ag connectors. For my post pounder I added long hoses with ISO Ag connectors. I can hook it up before or after the loader valve, it does not matter.

L3450, please look at the diagram it looks like the village idiot crafted. It's correct and simple to do.

If you truly do NOT have 3 hoses from the loader valve, definitely get the power beyond port for it.

Leejohn · Feb 10, 2014

Go back and look at the picture of the block, that plug you keep pointing to is the relief valve.

L3450 · Feb 10, 2014

Gotcha Leejohn
went back and looked at the parts breakdown and see what you mean....my bad / thanks for keeping me straight on that!

L3450 · Feb 10, 2014

ishiboo said:
Bad idea IMHO. It does not matter where in the series it goes. If you do it as you propose, you will have to cut one of the hard lines to the 3 point and deal with either brazing or using compression fittings to fit in some connections in a poorly accessible location. In addition, you will need an additional means to bypass this if you ever remove the valve for any reason.

It can much more easily be added between the "OUT" on the hydraulic block and "IN" on the loader valve, or between the "power beyond" on the loader valve and the "in" on the hydraulic block. These are 3/8 NPT pipe threads connecting to hoses you can much more easily deal with. Both the "IN" and "OUT" on my hydraulic block as well as L3450s would have quick connects for a factory loader, I simply changed these over to ISO Ag connectors. For my post pounder I added long hoses with ISO Ag connectors. I can hook it up before or after the loader valve, it does not matter.

L3450, please look at the diagram it looks like the village idiot crafted. It's correct and simple to do. If you truly do NOT have 3 hoses from the loader valve, definitely get the power beyond port for it.

Guys i'm seriously starting to wonder why my Loader valve hasn't failed or my Hyd. pump hasn't blown up before now .

J_J · Feb 10, 2014

L3450 ,

Just curious if you have had any problems at all with loader operations not working correctly?

No leaks, no intermittent operations of loader cyl, nothing?

Seems to me, that if you were trying to operate the 3pt and the loader at the same time you would have problems as the back pressure would affect the loader.

L3450 · Feb 10, 2014

J_J said:
L3450 ,

Just curious if you have had any problems at all with loader operations not working correctly?

No leaks, no intermittent operations of loader cyl, nothing?

Seems to me, that if you were trying to operate the 3pt and the loader at the same time you would have problems as the back pressure would affect the loader.

I've never been very impressed by the lack of down pressure on the loader lift cylinders / it's rare that i would be using both 3 ph and loader valve at the same time so that may be my saving grace.

JJ on the hyd. block if the control screw is turned to "o" and only the 3 ph works , when it's set to "c" shouldn't i be able to plumb the new valve from

"out port " on hyd. block to "in port ' on loader valve

"PB port" on loader valve to "in port" on new valve

"work ports" to cyl.

"PB port" on new valve to "in port" on hyd. block

Both New & Loader Valve "Out Port" Tee'd together and routed to what I believe is the now (on my tractor) plugged "Tank Port" located on the front of hyd. block allowing the Hyd. block next to the engine oil pan

feed the 3 ph valve via factory steel line and return to tank via the steel line (as set up from factory / dealer)

Would this not keep everything in series as ishiboo suggested ?