Jinma 284LE won't turn over

[greg_g]

(Sigh)
1. I've never seen a Jinma starter, I doubt you have either. But I've seen quite a few starters that fit Jinmas. Of those, I've noticed at least three different manufacturers. And of those, at least one featured a solenoid with two small posts (S and I). I believe the I post supplied the fuse box.
2. There was no sparring until you entered this thread sir
3. Yes. But without actually seeing Mark's tractor, neither of us can say with certainty which starter is installed. As such, my wiring suggestion was simply an attempt to cover all the bases.

Having said that, I now realize that suggestion would only apply if/when starting attempts from the keyswitch failed. Attempting to start with a screwdriver takes the switch wire out of the equation.

Mark - sorry if that wiring idea wasted any of your time.

//greg//

 

[markh1]

The first time I jumped the starter with a screwdriver it turned over. This sentence from 1 of my previous posts was after I assembled and put the starter back on.
My solenoid does only have 1 small terminal. When I put my solenoid back on I connected the positive battery post to the large terminal on the solenoid that didn't have a wire going into the solenoid. The other large terminal that has a wire going into the solenoid I connected to the copper bracket that attaches from the solenoid to the starter. I thought this was correct but please let me know.
I think I will see about getting it bench tested to see if the starter or solenoid is the problem.

Mark H

 

[greg_g]

Now we're makin' progress, thanks. If you haven't already, go to the frame end of the battery ground cable. Unbolt it, grind paint off around the bolt hole in the frame - right down to bare metal. Grind/sand excess paint off the cable lug too if necessary. Apply a silicone dielectric (the type that will skin over), bolt the cable lug back to the frame, apply more dielectric. And if you've got enough negative cable to stretch, actually bolting it to the engine block often provides a better ground. But that's optional.

And now that I have a better idea which configuration you have, look at the installed starter from the wiring end. If you have the Wuyue QD100C3, I'd expect to see two large terminals side by side on a solenoid mounted just left of top center. The small terminal should be centered above the two large ones. As you already know, the small wire goes there. Of the two large terminals. the left one should have a copper strap on it. The other end of the strap should be connected to a terminal on the starter housing itself. The large right terminal is where you connect the positive battery cable lug.

When the tractor is just sitting there - not running and with the key off - there should be battery voltage at the large right terminal only. When you turn the key to START, there should be battery voltage at all three posts. If you've got it at the right post and the small post, but not at the left post - it's an internal problem.

When you try to start - whether with the key or with the screwdriver - is there any noise at all? Whirring, clicking? If no - and your external connections are correct - it's possible that an internal connection (behind the solenoid endcap) became undone during your reassembly.

//greg//

 

[Diamondpilot]

This will not prevent you from starting with a screw driver but you should check to make sure you put the white wire that feeds the fuse box under the same lug as the large wire that comes from the battery. Then double check to make sure you put the red wire on the small lug of the solenoid.

What I am saying is there are 3 wires going to the starter. The large one from the battery, the small red one from the key, and the small white one going up to feed the fuse box.

Chris

 

[markh1]

I am not at home so don't have a camera but here is a bitmap image to show my solenoid and connections.

Mark H

 

[markh1]

Took my starter in to NAPA and they said they got nothing when they tested it. Does this mean for sure the starter is bad or did I do something when I took it apart although I don't know what that would be.

Mark H

 

[Diamondpilot]

Has to be that. If it worked prior to taking apart you put it back incorrectly. At this point if I were you I would get the American made replacement that is a gear reduction unit. You can get them through Jinmaparts.com

I got one 2 years ago and it the best money I have spent. Greg was lucky enough to win one in a contest.

Chris

 

[greg_g]

Took my starter in to NAPA and they said they got nothing when they tested it. Does this mean for sure the starter is bad or did I do something when I took it apart although I don't know what that would be.

Take the solenoid off the starter housing, remove the solenoid end cap. First guess is that the switch wire came loose inside. If it was one of the other wires, it should at least make some kinda sound when you try to turn it over with the key or a screwdriver.

//greg//

 

[Diamondpilot]

You can eliminate the solenoid by taking the starter off the tractor and putting it in a vise. Hook up the negative wire of a set of jumper cables to the body of the starter. Touch the positive side of the jumper cable to the lug which the copper bus hooks coming from the solenoid. If the starter spins you have a bad solenoid which can be replaced.

Chris

 

[erj]

Mark,
I gather that NAPA simply said that it didn't work. They did not identify whether there was a problem in the Starter or Solenoid?

If this was my starter, I would be interested in finding out why I am only getting 10 volts at the small terminal on the Solenoid instead of the 12 volts that I should be getting. My first step would be to check the voltage output at the keyswitch to see if there was full voltage there going to the Starter-Interrupt switch. On my tractor that would be wire #10 which is pink/white.
Based on that reading I could then determine if the problem is between the Switch and the Solenoid, or between the Switch and the Battery.
RonJ