John Deere 2140

[Tx Jim]

The way I comprehend the 2130 parts catalog seal(key 16) is only a single type seal but it's inside ID is 0.976 IN

 

[Zebrafive]

Is it possible the tractor had the seal/O ring combination and it was replaced (in the past) with the single seal?
I am not sure how you would verify what it should have.

 

[Ausmac]

Jim the dealer was leaning towards me having keys 12 13 and 14 from the page you attached. The seal I am getting is L171436 which I believe is an upgrade from L60162 (key 16). I googled both part numbers and the look the same. He also added an o ring which he says goes in behind that seal. I do not see how. I think Zebra has it in that with the upgrade they eliminated the o ring altogether.

 

[Tx Jim]

It's a mystery to me why so many different part # s were offered for bush/seals for a model 2130

 

[Ausmac]

Me either mate. Virtually any other jd of that size and era has a parts list and that is what you order. I am not sure, get the parts home and see if the o rings fit, if not throw them over my shoulder and insert the sealing washer and see if it holds by itself? I kept the transmission oil drums which I decanted the new oil I just changed back into them. Have a feeling it might not be the last time I do this....

 

[Ausmac]

Also can not for the life of me get the load shaft back in. My load control arm does not move. I made sure it was in D before shutting down. I would have thought key 21 would have moved back toward the front in the D position. Maybe key 21 was pushing on the load shaft the whole time? Can I force that part 21 out of the way without upsetting the rest of the hydraulic system? Have I uncovered another problem?

 

[Tx Jim]

You could try screwing negative stop screw(keys 22 or 23 or 26) in further which should move pin(key 21) further from location of L/D control shaft

 

[Ausmac]

Ok I will try that when the new parts get here. If I adjust that will that affect anything else? I remember you saying there is a set of rules to adjusting the lift assembly that must be followed exactly to the manual. I am wondering if it all needs to be set properly and if this was part of the reason it seemed out. Have not done a lot with it but it never seemed to be right. In D it would not lift all the way but in LD it would.

 

[Tx Jim]

If & when you get L/D shaft installed you need to readjust the linkage as outlined in TM if you desire the 3 pt to operate as designed.

 

[Ausmac]

Sorry for all the simple (to most) questions. If I am being a pest, please let me know. I just haven't worked on this type of hydraulics and don't want to break something beyond repair. The set up is a lot different to the Massey Ferguson equipment I have worked on. Also, if you think I should start another thread in the correct topic section seeing as this has changed direction from the original questions, please let me know.
Ok, the negative stop screw which will push the load control arm back enough to get my load shaft through the bushings, where is it? Can it be accessed from the outside? A guy has a video on youtube doing one on a 3020, but he removes a plug up near the top link mount. In my drawing, the adjustment bolt looks to be real low down, just above key 21. Also, if I follow the 9 adjustments to set it up correctly, #1 says to just touch the adjusting screw to the load control arm then back off 1/8 turn. If I force the arm forward using the screw, will I damage anything? I am trying to get away from removing the rockshaft cover, but eventually I think it is going to have to happen so I can see what I'm dealing with. As i said in an earlier post, I made sure i had the control lever set to D but it didn't move key 21. Took quite a bit to get the load shaft out. That's why I think it's bigger than a simple adjustment.