Buying Advice John Deere compared to Kubota

   / John Deere compared to Kubota #131  
famaliarization with the l m h shifting is maybe required but pulling a lever to lower the stabilizing arm requires only one thing, strength, and in this case lots of it. hopefully just a linkage problem, otherwise i will continue to eat the wheaties before i attempt to pull this lever.
 
   / John Deere compared to Kubota #132  
In my opinion, Kubota is the superior product until you get up to large ag tractors, and even then...Kubota is making inroads with machines like the M6.

Weight can be a benefit or detriment. Higher weight helps a tractor handle a heavier implement better, but it also causes the engine to have to use more horsepower for moving the weight of the machine. This is especially noticeable if you mow or till uphill. High weight can also cause much worse rut damage on soft or wet ground. As others have mentioned, you can always add weight but you can't remove stock weight. If your tractor is only going to do one specific function and you want more weight, a Deere might be better from a weight standpoint. But if you want a general purpose tractor, one that is a little lighter might be beneficial.

John Deere markets themselves as an iconic, American company. And they are, until you realize many of their smaller tractors are built in Pune, India. I'd certainly rather have a tractor built in Japan than a third world country with poorly paid employees working in potentially poor conditions. There is no reason for an American company to be building in India other than to exploit a poor country in order to bring in more profit.

Nevertheless, companies like Mahindra are even worse. They either sell licensed clones of other tractors like TYM or even worse sell minimally-upgraded versions of their own ancient designs.

In the smaller tractors, especially HST...the debate over the twin-pedal JD vs the treadle-pedal Kubota has raged on for years. I came from a twin-pedal HST which I really liked and bought my first Kubota HST. For the first 25 hours or so, I missed the twin pedal design. But since then, the treadle design works just fine for me without even a thought and I'm every bit as productive. I think a person can quickly get accustomed to either and there really is no advantage to either. Some people even say it is unnatural on a twin pedal design to push forward to move forward AND push forward to go backwards. The treadle pushes forward to go forward and backwards to go backwards.

JD continues to use a proprietary Quick-Attach design on their loaders. Not only is it not quite as easy to use, it locks the operator into buying JD implements or making modifications to use universal attachments. This is inline with JD's focus on profits over the consumer's best interests. Kubota has used SSQA from the start.

In the smallest of tractors, like the 1-2-3(E) series JD's, the HST transmission only gives you two ranges. This is garbage! A 3-range is far more optimal, matching speed to the implement. Mowing with a two range more often than not forces you into the low range because there is not enough power to move at the faster speed range while mowing heavy grass. Aside from the smallest BX series, Kubota gives you three ranges.

Many of the smaller JD tractors do not provide an engine temp gauge...just a warning light. All Kubotas give you an engine temp gauge.

As has been covered, JD loves a plastic hood and side panels, and plastic rear fenders. I'd prefer metal myself. There's no doubt the plastic sure feels flimsy to the touch.

The Yanmar engine...I'd take a Kubota any day of the week in the smaller horsepower versions. There's a reason companies like Bobcat, Jacobsen, and Carrier tractor trailer reefer units run small Kubota diesels. They are dead-nuts reliable and long lasting, and smooth. A lot of the smaller Deere engines are 3-cylinder. 3 cylinder engines are not as smooth as four cylinders. Deere would rather sell you a 3-banger with a turbo than a 4-cylinder natural aspiration...because it's cheaper. And very interesting how this iconic American company subs out the engine to a Jap company.

I prefer to buy American (US made) every time...but I'm not going to pay Deere more for a tractor with less features that's made in India with a Japanese engine. I'll just buy a Japanese tractor with a Japanese motor and a Kubota made in USA loader.

Don't get me wrong, there are a few things I like about JD. I think they generally have better styling than Kubota. I like the color better, and the paint doesn't fade as quickly as the orange does. But overall, Kubota is the better machine.
 
   / John Deere compared to Kubota #135  
If you get the Kubota with HST, get really good hearing protection with it. That thing screams.

You hear that HST noise complaint about every HST brand out there. And sometimes two of the same model will differ.
Particularly if you want HST, it would make sense to try out the tractor for yourself before taking delivery.
 
   / John Deere compared to Kubota #136  
You hear that HST noise complaint about every HST brand out there. And sometimes two of the same model will differ.
Particularly if you want HST, it would make sense to try out the tractor for yourself before taking delivery.

All I can say is the comparison between the two (New JD 3039R and New Kub L3901) is night and day. I also don't understand how one is to use the selective brakes on the Kub when they are on the same side as the forward-reverse pedal. How do you reverse while locking up the left side wheel, for instance? Is it even possible. No problem on the JD.

The JD has a seemingly trivial problem with the location of the ignition key - perfect location for bending it in half with one's knee while looking over one's shoulder while reversing. The Traction Lock lever is also pretty small an somewhat inconvenient, but both are trivial next to the noise and brakes issue in the Kub. There must be some solution to the brakes that I'm not seeing (broom handles?).
 
   / John Deere compared to Kubota #137  
I’m not a big Kubota fan, but I haven’t experienced any trouble at all reaching either brake pedal with my left foot on my HST 3240. It seems I do a lot of that on very steep terrain here to keep the tractor from rolling; right foot on the HST pedal, left on the brake. Felt funny at first, but you get used to it.
 
   / John Deere compared to Kubota #138  
I have three Kubotas. My 2013 B2920 HST has the admittedly ridiculous design of the two steering brakes above the HST pedal. I'd say nearly impossible to use unless cruise is engaged, and you'd have to be a very skilled operator to do that successfully. Bad design. But newer Kubotas are addressing this issue and moving the pedals over to the left for HST models. The problem was that "standard" Kubotas still used a left-side clutch pedal even with an HST transmission. The clutch was for range change and for PTO manual engagement. Newer Kubotas are allowing range change without a clutch (still stopped) and use electric over hydraulic PTO clutches. This removes the left clutch pedal and allows the left/right brakes to be usable. My new MX4800 is this way and has the brakes on the left where they are usable. I would note that very few people are using individual brakes on a small tractor the size of a B-series. You would really only use individual brakes for tight field work using ground engaging implements, which is not likely on a B or BX series. So it's a moot point.

Regarding HST noise, pretty much any hydro makes a whine. My B2920 only makes a noticeable whine in high range, but not in medium or low range. The new MX makes virtually no HST noise. Maybe the JD's make less noise because they don't have that extra range, lol.
 
   / John Deere compared to Kubota #139  
IMHO, there is one simple key to having a successful transmission, and that is to have lots of ratios to pick from. An old style geared transmission with only two gears - a high and a low - would be as useless in a tractor as in a car. It would be either crawling along roaring, or bucking and stalling. But put in some more ratios so that gearbox has you have 4 or 8 speeds forward and that same tractor or car becomes one nice machine. And all because of more gear ratios.

A HST has the ability for each "gear" to have a broader range, but that ability isn't infinite. If you try to do too much within one HST range then either noise or overheating is the result.

The cure for a HST is just the same as for the geared tractor - more ratios, or ranges to pick from. Our 60 hp Kubota has a nice HST with 6 forward ranges - basically it has a HST transmission feeding a 3-speed selectable geared rear axle with low and high in each range. Just like big trucks have. With that many ranges to pick from it hardly makes any HST whine. If it whines, change ranges. More ratios makes efficiency lots better, more power on hills, and it doesn't overheat.

I don't know the modern John Deere tractors, but I'm sure their high end HST is similar and also has lots of ratios. Having more ratios is the simple key to making either type of tranny work well.

I don't think that it makes sense to compare a cheap HST with not enough ranges to a geared transmission. The gears will win most everytime.

If I was buying an economy tractor I'd go for a manual shift gearbox with as many old-fashioned gears as I could get. At the least I'd want 3 or 4 speeds with high and low in each. And about the last thing I'd want would be an inexpensive HST with not enough ranges. That's a formula for noise and wear.

But when buying a "high end" tractor I'd go for a high dollar HST with lots of ranges just for operator convenience. HST has a larger range per gear, but I'd want to see at least 3 ranges with high and low in each.

rScotty
 
   / John Deere compared to Kubota #140  
I知 not a big Kubota fan, but I haven稚 experienced any trouble at all reaching either brake pedal with my left foot on my HST 3240. It seems I do a lot of that on very steep terrain here to keep the tractor from rolling; right foot on the HST pedal, left on the brake. Felt funny at first, but you get used to it.

Yes, sitting sidesaddle on an L3901 does feel funny, but how else to work both brake and HST since they are both on the right side?

For what does the L3901 with an HST need a clutch pedal on the left?

I'm sure I'm missing something.
 
 
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