Joystick float

[44trxfun]

Hi all--reviving an old thread. First though, just a hello and long-overdue thank you to y'all for this forum. I got my GC2300 in '03 and it's still running great most of the time. So many times I've thought of you folks, answering so many of my questions for several years. This was a great forum then, and it looks like it still is.

Now, on to my question. I've had no-to-little trouble with my loader / blower valve all these years. I did develop a small leak I couldn't trace last summer and the dealer took it apart and sealed...something. Unfortunately I can't remember what it was, but it was nothing obvious. It almost seems like it was an internal seal. The dealer almost missed it but spotted it just before they were to bring the tractor back.

I've used the blower many times during the winter, with no problem on the valve, until recently. Last time I used it, first I couldn't get into the float position. It was as if it were blocked. After ~ 15 minutes, suddenly it went into float as normal. I used it that way for about 20 minutes, then drove about five minutes down the road to do the neighbor's place. Once again, I couldn't get it into float. This time, however, it felt like there was resistance pushing back on the lever. It got to the point where I had to use some force to overcome that resistance.

I called the dealer and they suggested I remove the cap off the float control cap (they described it, but didn't actually call it the float control cap), make sure there was no ice buildup from condensation, drill a small hole in the bottom, give it some grease, and see if that fixes it. After reading this thread, I expected to find the innards all gunked up. In fact, it was just the opposite. Everything was clean and seemed to be functioning well. There was no grease, but it looked like there was residual clean hydraulic oil on the shaft and spring. I don't remember seeing a bolt on the end of the shaft. I'll have to take another look.

Long story short--I put it back together without doing anything to it. I let the tractor warm up for about ten minutes, then tried the float and it slipped right into position without a problem. It worked under test conditions for about 10 minutes before it didn't. I felt the resistance again. That seemed to get stronger within the course of a few minutes. I shut it off, then noticed a small leak of what looked to me slightly milky hydraulic fluid coming from somewhere on the valve assembly, but not the quick-connects.

Sorry for the length of this thread, but if anybody has any ideas, I'd love to hear 'em. In the meantime, I'll give the dealer a call and see what they think.

Thanks!

 

[mustangsallysdad]

Hi all--reviving an old thread. First though, just a hello and long-overdue thank you to y'all for this forum. I got my GC2300 in '03 and it's still running great most of the time. So many times I've thought of you folks, answering so many of my questions for several years. This was a great forum then, and it looks like it still is.

Now, on to my question. I've had no-to-little trouble with my loader / blower valve all these years. I did develop a small leak I couldn't trace last summer and the dealer took it apart and sealed...something. Unfortunately I can't remember what it was, but it was nothing obvious. It almost seems like it was an internal seal. The dealer almost missed it but spotted it just before they were to bring the tractor back.

I've used the blower many times during the winter, with no problem on the valve, until recently. Last time I used it, first I couldn't get into the float position. It was as if it were blocked. After ~ 15 minutes, suddenly it went into float as normal. I used it that way for about 20 minutes, then drove about five minutes down the road to do the neighbor's place. Once again, I couldn't get it into float. This time, however, it felt like there was resistance pushing back on the lever. It got to the point where I had to use some force to overcome that resistance.

I called the dealer and they suggested I remove the cap off the float control cap (they described it, but didn't actually call it the float control cap), make sure there was no ice buildup from condensation, drill a small hole in the bottom, give it some grease, and see if that fixes it. After reading this thread, I expected to find the innards all gunked up. In fact, it was just the opposite. Everything was clean and seemed to be functioning well. There was no grease, but it looked like there was residual clean hydraulic oil on the shaft and spring. I don't remember seeing a bolt on the end of the shaft. I'll have to take another look.

Long story short--I put it back together without doing anything to it. I let the tractor warm up for about ten minutes, then tried the float and it slipped right into position without a problem. It worked under test conditions for about 10 minutes before it didn't. I felt the resistance again. That seemed to get stronger within the course of a few minutes. I shut it off, then noticed a small leak of what looked to me slightly milky hydraulic fluid coming from somewhere on the valve assembly, but not the quick-connects.

Sorry for the length of this thread, but if anybody has any ideas, I'd love to hear 'em. In the meantime, I'll give the dealer a call and see what they think.

Thanks!

You have an internal leak...the fluid is building up in the cap to the point that it overcomes the little resistance provided by the detent. When you removed the cap to inspect it, the fluid was removed from the cap enabling it to function properly. Over time it will fill the cap again, and you will not be able to use the float function...you can drill a small hole in the bottom edge of the cap for a short term emergency fix, but you will eventually have to deal with the root cause.

 

[massey driver]

First off is this a Nimco Valve and if it is then,This is what to look for.Take the cap off again and see if there's oil in it again. If there is then the oil is comming from the valve.You don't have to take to much apart to fix it.First take the nut off the end then the spring and washer's.Now this is the part thats leaking is right against the valve body.Its a washer with a packing that fits into the valve body, What happens is they get brittle and start leaking.What you have to do is dig all the dried up packing out and insert a O-ring in it's place.You'll see that the washer has a step on it make sure you install it back on the same way you took it off.The o-ring has to be worked into the cutout in the valve body gently so as to not nick or damage it or the spool.It's really a lot easier to do then try to explain it.I did mine this way and it's working fine.Thats actually what keeps the oil from comming from the valve body.[Its a sort of external o-ring as there's none at this end of the spool but the other end has a internal o-ring.So this is the easier end to change the o-ring on.Larry.

 

[44trxfun]

Thanks for the replies. I took the cap back off and it just didn't LOOK like it had filled with oil. Where it attaches to the valve assembly was completely dry. The setup on the valve looked like it was a plastic washer assembly. When I monkeyed around with the lever a little, it started leaking from right there at the point where the connection is. I started thinking about someone's suggestion to make sure the bolt at the end of the shaft was tight, and I was able to give that maybe a 1/5 turn. Since it's night and I have to leave first thing in the morning, I thought I'd try it. I ran it for about 20 minutes, float in most of the time, but out plenty. Each time it worked normally. Within ten minutes earlier this afternoon, the problem had shown itself. Hard to believe that was all it took, but it seems that's the case.

Gotta love this board! Thanks again.

 

[mustangsallysdad]

First off is this a Nimco Valve and if it is then,This is what to look for.Take the cap off again and see if there's oil in it again. If there is then the oil is comming from the valve.You don't have to take to much apart to fix it.First take the nut off the end then the spring and washer's.Now this is the part thats leaking is right against the valve body.Its a washer with a packing that fits into the valve body, What happens is they get brittle and start leaking.What you have to do is dig all the dried up packing out and insert a O-ring in it's place.You'll see that the washer has a step on it make sure you install it back on the same way you took it off.The o-ring has to be worked into the cutout in the valve body gently so as to not nick or damage it or the spool.It's really a lot easier to do then try to explain it.I did mine this way and it's working fine.Thats actually what keeps the oil from comming from the valve body.[Its a sort of external o-ring as there's none at this end of the spool but the other end has a internal o-ring.So this is the easier end to change the o-ring on.Larry.

I have to agree with massey driver. I think that in time, you will find that massey driver and I are correct...if, as you described, when you first removed the cap and found oil inside. That oil has found it's way past the factory packing rod (seal). I had to perform the same repair that massey driver described at around 275-300 hours. The Nimco seal was so brittle that I had to remove it in little pieces...if I recall correctly I just used an O-ring out of a kit that I had here in the shop...and you'll have to disconnect some of the "screwball" linkage on the front of the valve...didn't even want to think about how much the dealer would want for the O-ring. They wouldn't have had it in stock anyway and I would have had to wait for at least a week like everything else I've had to have. Get used to making your own repairs on these little tractors...parts are expensive! By the way, the O-ring fix is still working after around 1400 hours later.

 

[44trxfun]

Don't get me wrong guys, I would have done what you suggested if I had found what you thought I would. First, there never was any accumulation of hydraulic oil in the float cap--I may not have made that clear initially. The residual oil I described was a very thin coating on the cap, shaft, and spring, but there was no accumulation either time I took the cap off. Nor could I find any indication of who made the loader valve--no identifying plate or stamp or nothing. From looking at it when I had the cap off, it looked quite different from the newer models shown in several pictures on this thread. The setup looked different than massey driver described--similar but different. I saw no 'typical' washer and no packing material, but I did not take it completely apart, so maybe I need to dig further.

I do appreciate your responses and understand I may not be done with this. If need be, I'll dig deeper but for the time being, it seems to be working.

 

[Abe460]

Sorry for bringing this tread back to life if I should have started a new one.

I've finally got my tractor running right and it's been great. Got some things done that have been in waiting too long.

Problem I have is understanding the "float" setting on the FEL. When I push the joystick forward the lift goes down until I pass onto what i assume is supposed to be the "float" position. At that point the FEL lifts...and quickly.

Is this a valve issue or maybe this valve doesn't have that option? Thanks again for everyone's help and advice for previous issues and I look forward to hearing from you guys again.



Abe.

 

[jaybrad]

Abe,

Hopefully someone else more familiar with the valve body can weigh in here - but on my unit, when I push the control stick forward, the bucket goes down and there is a point where if I push it just a bit further, the lever stays in the forward position and the bucket goes into "float" mode and adjusts to the ground terrain.

If yours is going in the opposite direction, something isn't right. Have you checked the simple stuff like making sure all the hoses and lines are properly connected?

I'll be interested to hear what others suggest - and learning about whatever fixes the problem.

Good luck!

Jay

 

[irvingj]

When you say "At that point the FEL lifts..." do you mean the FEL goes up, or the FEL lifts the front of the tractor?

 

[DMW]

If it's the front of the tractor that lifts, remove the cap on the valve body and check the bolt in the end of the spool, It may have loosened off.

edit: Assuming it's a Nimco valve on a GC2300/2310