Ranch_Hand_Supp
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greg_g said:But if silicon dielectric is permitted to set up prior properly, it won't turn into a dirt magnet like grease.
//greg//
How long does is take to set up ??
Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply
greg_g said:But if silicon dielectric is permitted to set up prior properly, it won't turn into a dirt magnet like grease.
//greg//
In my experience, it depends upon the formulation; gel, grease, lubricant, compound, elastomer, etc. Some are formulated NOT to set up, others to form a skin. I've had some that stays tacky - like the kind you use on spark plug wires. I'm guessing that might be the grease formula. I've used others that form a skin. Might have been the gel - I don't remember. That took only about 15 minutes to cure, but I suspect curing time may be temperature dependent. I've never used a compound, but I suspect the fact that it comes in two containers is related to forming as skin as well.Ranch_Hand_Supp said:How long does is take to set up
Nope. You want to keep air and moisture OFF the conducting surfaces. Rust is a poor conductor, and steel+water+air=rust.3RRL said:Greg,
I had read somewhere that although it can be done, it's preferable NOT to put the dielectric grease between the contact points. Rather, keep the contact metal to metal, keep them clean, fit together, then apply the grease or spray over the connection. Some claim if put in between it could hamper conductivity since it is NOT conductive. Others claim there is still metal to metal contact since it gets displaced.
IMO, I would keep the connection clean and metal to metal, then coat it with the grease to keep moisture and oxygen out and keep the little nuts and bolts lubricated.
Interesting. Given the sensitivity of today's engine management systems, its dielectric property makes sense. I'm impressed that they must somehow render the copper content non-conductive.Brad_Blazer said:I like copper anti-seize.