Kubota B Series - Service It Yourself

mike diehlman · Jul 6, 2012

Do you have s suggestion as to where I might find a rubber grease cup for drag link? This for 1985 L245DT 2wd. Quota does not sell them, only with the entire drag link?

mike diehlman · Jul 6, 2012

Kubota, not quota.

displacedPA · Jul 11, 2012

bp fick said:
Update: on post 17, I've updated the HST filter change. I actually did the deed this morning. Piece of cake, and only lost a pint and a half, tops.

I don't know what the labor cost savings from having the dealer do this would be, but not even counting the transportation to and from, which is no small hassle and expense in itself, I imagine dealers charge a couple hundred bucks, on top of materials for a job like this.

Seriously, if you change or have changed oil on a car, you can do this. On the scale of 1-10 in degree of difficulty, I would peg this entire thing at less than a 2. Some guys contend that servicing your own unit teaches you about your tractor and helps you become familiar with it. I suspect so.

So, if the weather clears up a bit, I believe I'll do one more thing as part of this one year (50 hour type) service. I think I'll give it a bath. It's pretty filthy from all the dirt work this summer. Probably check all my tire pressures as well.

Thanks for playing along and I hope this thread's has been encouraging.

Bp,

I see some guys talking about these filter magnets that come in the hyd. filters from factory. They are typically off of L series. I dont think it calls for the suction filter to be changed until the several hundred hour mark. I see from you picture

that your HST filter did not have a magnet in it. Just curious if the factory suction has one in it. I have all the new filters for my tractor and i didnt see any magnets with them. Maybe the B doesnt come with magnets just curious??

AJE · Jul 16, 2012

Glad I found this thread. I'm due for a 500 hr service, I really should contribute some pics of my own.

bp fick · Aug 11, 2012

displacedPA said:
Bp,

I see some guys talking about these filter magnets that come in the hyd. filters from factory. They are typically off of L series. I dont think it calls for the suction filter to be changed until the several hundred hour mark. I see from you picture that your HST filter did not have a magnet in it. Just curious if the factory suction has one in it. I have all the new filters for my tractor and i didnt see any magnets with them. Maybe the B doesnt come with magnets just curious??

Sorry, I didn't see this post sooner. I do not believe the B series come with magnets. I am not certain, but I can try to see if it is magnetic. I've a couple of the filters in the shop.

JOHNTHOMAS · Aug 11, 2012

BP: You still trading tires with me before Oct 26????

JOHNTHOMAS · Sep 26, 2013

bp fick said:
Can I Really Service My Own Compact Tractor?

Because Kubota makes sooooo many engines and combinations for so many kinds of B tractors, not every detail will fit everyone's tractor, but the principles are the same, regardless of the myriad of models.

I totally enjoy servicing my own equipment. There isn't anyone who's likely to care as much as the owner about doing it right. If a guy can change oil in a lawn mower or a car, he can do this.

That is the point of this thread. Answering an inner question some will have. Can I really do the service? Sure you can.

The 50 hour or 1 year anniversary (whichever comes first, imho) service includes, greasing everything. Not THAT many grease points, dumping the front axle fluid and re-filling, an engine oil and filter change, and a hydro transmission filter change. (some guys dump the fluid as well for "peace of mind", but in this thread, I will only be changing the filter.)

What is NOT the point of this thread?
The choice of dino versus synthetics has been beaten to death. I frankly do not care to engage that for the umpteeth millionth time.

Nor do I particularly care whether a guy follows the manual or goes "beyond what the manual calls for" for "peace of mind". Nor is this a OEM products versus OTC filters and fluids debate invitation. Again, that horse is beaten so dead it couldn't possibly rise again. :laughing:

My sole intent here, really, is merely to encourage guys to a.) do the maintenance that is required and help answer b.) what is the degree of difficulty? What tools are helpful and what "speed bumps" should I expect?

bp fick said:
Bring It On In

Of course, you'll want to be sure to do a small job with the tractor before bringing on into the shop. It's best if the fluid have been warmed and circulated a bit before draining. This doesn't mean you have to risk First degree burns. Let it cool down a bit, if you got it really hot.

Assemble your tools.

The first thing to do is check the lug nuts. It may be that you've checked them monthly or never have before. This would be an ideal time to check them. If you have an airgun and compressor, use it. Whatever tool you have, tighten those lug nuts!!!

Have some sand or sawdust spread under the front end of the tractor, or have some ready, because it seems no matter what you do, you'll drip, splotch or spill some fluids on the shop floor. That's what oil dry, sawdust or sand is for. Don't sweat it.

Have a couple of oil catch pans. I used a very deep one and a shallow version with a pouring spout. Let's start with the engine. Pop the hood, and loosen the two thumb screws. This enables you to tilt the grill forward. No need to actually remove it. The side curtain panel has a "keeper", as shown. Simply life. The entire curtain is now free to remove out of the way. Easy and no tools required.

Start by removing the old oil filter. You'll need an oil filter wrench of some kind and there are a number of choices. Cups, band wrenches, giant "claw" type filter wrenches, etc. Use what you have or can buy/borrow. I happen to have a #3 cup. In fact, I have all the sizes, collected over the years. The oil filter for the Kubota is the same filter used by Honda cars and many, many others.

On the my particular engine the radiator hose rubs on the oil filter. Just is what it is. Also, there are some wires there. Just make note of obstacles such as these and gently work around them.

Have a catch pan down below and remove old filter. Lighten oil the rubber gasket of the new filter and spin it on. I like to use the cup wrench to make a snug fit, but there's no need to King Kong it on.

Under the tractor, find your oil pan drain plug. Mine was the only plug in the oil pan. 14 mm. Very common Japanese size. Easy right? Well, not so fast. Turns out the bottom brace of the FEL is smack dab under the oil drain plug. Nice!

Ok, there will be a bit of shower of oil, going a few directions when loosening the plug. Have an over sized pan ready. This isn't going to be a nice single stream. Seen this many times before on cars and trucks too. Nothing new.

Once the oil stops dripping, usually within 10 minutes, re-install the plug. Take your time, don't cross thread it. Fingers only, snug it up. Snug the plug tight, but again, there is absolutely no need for King Kong. If you use 3/8 drive socket wrench or an open end wrench of 8" length, there will less tendency to over tighten. Put that 2 foot cheater bar back!! No oil plug needs to be THAT tight.

Head up to the top of the engine. Remove the oil cap and ready an oversized funnel. "Easy Pour" sounds good on the jug label, but in the real world, an oversized funnel is your friend.

Put in 3 quarts. Again, different engines will vary slightly, but only put in 3 quarts for now. If you need 1/3 quart more, there'll be time to add that later. Over filling is not a good thing. Under fill until you run the tractor, let the oil settle down, and re-check. Mine took 3 and 1/3 quarts. YMMV.

Always good to keep a greatthread alive for those that forget and for those that have joined since it moved to the back room. Start at page 1 first post.

pchamlee · Sep 30, 2013

Super post, bp!

deminin · Oct 1, 2013

Absolutely! If a person owns a tractor, they probably have the skills to perform all of the normal maintenance. A couple of basic tools, and no fear of getting their hands dirty is about all that is required. It doesn't make much sense to take a tractor to the dealer for routine maintenance...unless a person just wants to waste money.

DennisArrow · Oct 1, 2013

I wish BP or some other op would describe or show pics on where the HST drain plugs are. The pics in the manual are really not clear as to where and which model it is trying to illustrate. On the B7610, I pulled the plugs on the case there by the axles because that is what the manual shows. LOTS came out...........

NO I did not measure HOW MUCH..........The book says, 15 something liters so I put in 14, and then stopped to check it................YES I CHANGED THE FILTERS>>>BOTH OF THEM.........Anyway, the dip stick showed fluid WAY up on the stick, scratched my head and started looking and calling dealers............found the one on the rear PTO shaft and there is supposed to be another one someplace......

PLEASE....Could someone give a description on where these drain plugs are and perhaps pics?????............Right now am gonna pull out fluid to get it down on the dipstick to where it is supposed to be.....Gonna wait for YOUR help before draining the high dollar SUD2 fluid out and starting all over................THANKS................God bless..................Dennis