L35 owner experience?

[OldRedTractors]

Considering a L35 TLB and was wondering what folks experiences were with the tractor with the hoe removed. I expect to mostly use it for misc loader work, and mowing (5' woods), and was wondering how it performed with out the hoe. Will it lift anything or does it need rear balast to even pick up a flea. My old IH 3414 TLB is totally useless without the hoe, but of course it's not MFWD.

Thnx,

Dave

 

[karmakanic]

I've put 450 hours on my L35. It's the best balanced TLB I've ever operated. You can lift close to max FEL capacity without any rear counter weight at all. Of course, like any tractor, it feels a lot better with some weight back there. I use a box blade or 6' mower if I've got the hoe off. Loaded rear tires would work also.

The biggest thing I like is the way it still feels balanced with the hoe in place. None of the typical light front end feel you get with most hoes.

I've worked my tractor extremely hard, moving and digging rocks much larger then I should. It has performed flawlessly.

Dave

 

[Anonymous Poster]

The L35 looks like a real workhorse. I wonder whether Kubota will make a HST version of it. With the B20, B21, and now the L48 it seems like it would make sense to make the L35 a HST. Probably would increase sales quite a bit as many members love the HST transmission.

 

[art]

I have a lot of customers that use them with a brush-hog and they work fine with that and many more things. When you remove the weight of the backhoe it does make a difference and it is noticeable. Your old 3414 probably has a bunch of weights on the front to offset the hoe's weight and if that was removed it might be better but still not as good as the L-35 do to the four wheel drive.

 

[littlediesel]

I have a L35 with 200 hours. The tractor has performed flawlessly. It is probably the most well designed TLB of any tractor for its class. The tractor is very well balanced with or without the hoe.

You can not compare this tractor to the IH 3414. We have had a IH 3414. The 4 wheel drive of the L35 makes up for any weight gain or extra power of the IH. You will find the L35 more manueverable and will out work the IH.

I am actually thinking about trading the L35 for a new B21. The work we do, I find the L35 a little big.

Hope this helps.

Jon

 

[OldRedTractors]

Thanks for the input - esp re: the 3414. Mine has a 14' hoe on it, and although I hardly ever need one that big, I'm wondering about the 9' on the L35.

Have you used it for stumping? How does it compare with a larger machine? Obviously, not as fast (not a concern to me) as long as it has the capaboility.

Also, any feedback on the GST? Does the shuttle actually work well for loader work?

Thanks!

Dave

 

[karmakanic]

I personally prefer the GST over the hydrostat. In fact, I was looking to trade up to a L48 until I drove one and learned I couldn't get a GST. With the GST you have full freedom to go from any gear to any gear,(and you've got 8 or them, forward or reverse), without touching the clutch. The clutching is done by the servos faster and smoother then you can do it. The clutches last longer then a manual operated clutch, you don't loose 20% of your torque to the hydro.

Dave

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Dave, is the L35 GST operated by moving the LEVER to the left of the steering wheel front to rear to move the tractor forward and backwards? Once in the forward or backward position you then just step on the accelerator pedal to control your speed, correct? Of course you can also fine tune your speeds (gearing) because you have an 8 speed trans, correct? Once you let off the accelerator pedal does the tractor just come to a complete stop? Almost like an automatic in a car. Sorry for all the questions but I currently have a hydro Kubota (B1550) and have never driven a GST so I'm trying to compare which is easier to operate. I'm thinking of moving up to the B21 but I like the additional weight of the L35. Unfortunately I've never driven a L35 to compare GST vs Hydro. Thanks for your input. Stanley

 

[karmakanic]

Hi Stan,

Yes, the lever to the left of the steering wheel controls forward and reverse. There's another lever to the left of the seat that controls gear selection. Speed is controlled by throttle and selected gear. You can shift from one to any other gear or from forward to reverse on the fly. You have the same 8 gears in reverse that you do in forward. There is also a manual petal for the clutch in it's normal position. It's just like a shuttle shift gear transmission except the clutch action and movement of the shift forks is done automatically for you. There are micro switches in the levers that sense when you start to make a shift. These switches control servos that depress and release the clutch and move the shift levers at the trans.

When coming to a stop you can either manually depress the clutch, or put either gear shift lever into neutral. You must uncouple the engine in some way from the driveline when you stop since there is no torque convertor or hydraulic motor to allow slippage. But this also means there is no loss of torque and horsepower once the clutch is engaged.

I find it to be the best of both worlds; fully automatic shifting from any gear to any other gear without stopping, and true torgue multiplication with low power loss that you get from a gear transmission. And with 8 gears you can better match rpm to ground speed so it's easier to keep the engine in it's most efficient rpm range. A Kubota tech rep (who was a real proponent of the GST) once told me you can do as much work with a L35 in the same amount of time as a L48 because of the GST. I don't know if I'd go that far, but it's pretty close.

HTH,
Dave

 

[TAB]

Hi, I'm not trying to butt in, but arrived late.

I love my L35 and use it with 6' mower, 5' tiller, 7' blade and have attached many other accesories. It handle great with any of the attachments. I have used it for loader work with nothing on the back as I have loaded tires and unless it was a really big rock I have not felt out of balance.

My L35 shifts forward to reverse and neutral on the column and then I have an 8 speed shifter at my left hip. You can slid forward to neutral to reverse without clutching and while in forward or reverse shift from 1 to 8 by sliding the shifter again with no clutching. You can also leave it in a speed and shift from forward to reverse. If you don't shift one of the shifters to neutral or step on the clutch you won't stop. If you don't get clear into a gear you will roll. Rpms are controled with a throttle control at your right hip, you can just let it run at the working rpm you want and shift gears for speed. If you need a little more power on occasion you can hit the little "goose peddle" at your right little toe.

The backhoe has a lot of power, sometimes more than the weight of the tractor can resist. The only thing I would really like to see work better,for me, is that the backhoe controls are pretty fast. It could be me or maybe just Little Lulu, but sometimes the controls feel a little jerky.

 

[karmakanic]

Dave,

Here's a link to a thread showing the L35 in stumping action. <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/cgi-bin/compact/showflat.pl?Cat=&Board=projects&Number=191107&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=>Taking out a big stump</A>

Dave

 

[TAB]

Sorry Dave, didn't mean to talk over you I'm slow on the keyboard and it takes me a while to post.

While I'm thinking about it have you put on rear remotes? If so where, if not where would look good to you? It is pretty crowded back there and I don't want to bind something up, but I would like remotes.

 

[karmakanic]

<font color=blue>The only thing I would really like to see work better,for
me, is that the backhoe controls are pretty fast. It could be me or maybe
just Little Lulu, but sometimes the controls feel a little jerky. </font color=blue>

I hear what you're saying about the fast controls. IIRC, the book says to run the engine at 3000 rpm when operating the hoe. I never go that fast myself, I'm afraid I'll run the boom into something I shouldn't. It seems to have gotten better with age, or maybe it's the learning curve. Something else i do to help keep the tractor from being pulled all over the place by the hoe, is to get that sucker up in the air. Front bucket curled full forward and down to the point front wheels are off the ground 6" or so, and use the hoe boom to raise the rear end up as high as possible, given the job and the terrain, before setting the outriggers.

Dave

 

[OldRedTractors]

Dave,

Thanks for the input (and the thread on stumping...)! Great info on how this machine performs. My 3414 w/ a 14' hoe is so light on the front you can lift the front off the ground by simply extending the hoe to it's max. Sometimes exciting if you don't have the outriggers down, but it's easy to move the front end around if you need to get it out of a hole

The L35 looks like the machine for me - time to go have a serious chat w/ the dealer(s) around here... They seem willing to talk so we'll see what they come in with as far as a price.

Regards,

Dave

 

[karmakanic]

<font color=blue>Sorry Dave, didn't mean to talk over you I'm slow on the keyboard and it
takes me a while to post.

While I'm thinking about it have you put on rear remotes? If so where, if
not where would look good to you? It is pretty crowded back there and I
don't want to bind something up, but I would like remotes.</font color=blue>

Hi TAB,


I'm slow at the keyboard also, we were probably pecking away in unison, and i just got finished a little earlier.

I've got a 3 remote setup. It's Kubota's version of the top n' tilt with hydraulic rippers, but it's made by Woods Gannon. Everything is on the right fender, in the general area where the tail light is located. The tail light gets moved to the outside edge of the fender to make room for the control valve assy. The valve and the dis-connects are each bolted to braces which in turn are bolted to the fender. It is pretty crowded, but that's not really a problem. There's access to everything you need to get to. To me, the biggect problem is the fender wasn't designed to handle the additional weight and force from using the controls, so there's a good amount of flex going on back there. I plan on building a braced arm that comes off the rear rops on that side and move the valve assy to that arm. That's the way the factory is doing the L48, and i think also the current L35s.

I can post a pic of the current arrangement if you'd like to see it. Just let me know.

Dave

 

[TAB]

A picture would be great, I'm a visual learner. Would like to add remotes this winter. I'm not sure if my cab would in the way with the mount on the fender, but the cab is forward of the rops so I doubt it. Did you put them on yourself? If I see pictures its gonna be one more thing I'll feel like I need to add.

 

[karmakanic]

Hi TAB,

Well,,,it just so happens I was out by the tractor with camera in hand this afternoon and remembered our conversation. So here's a couple of pics. The first one is from the rear, and shows the plumbing into the tractor's hydraulics. It's actually easier to put remotes on the L35 then most other tractors because you use the plumbing that's already in place for the hoe. No need of a divertor valve.

Dave

 

[karmakanic]

Here's a shot from the right side. You can see the bracket that locates the quick dis-connects and moves the tail light to the outer edge of the fender. Please excuse the dirt, I've been box blading all afternoon. You can see I need to replace the boots and one handle on the control levers. They're on order.

Interesting note, my system came with Woods/Gannon name tags, and was part of the Gannon box blade set-up. But the parts guy told me the control valve was furnished by Kubota and came from an Italian manufactor. It seems they had trouble with the original controls furnished by Woods/Gannon.

Another interesting note is the same parts guy told me his dealership is no longer a dealer for Woods/Gannon (and he is probably the largest tractor dealer in the area). He was going to have to order the boots and handle from one of his competitors if the valve had come from Woods.

HTH,
Dave

 

[TAB]

when you said the fender I was afraid that would be the setup. My cab sets on the fender right up to the rops. if you use the backhoe line for the rear remotes do you lose the 3 pt. I thought the push pull lever on the back disabled/enabled either the 3 pt or the backhoe hydraulics.
I am going to print off a picture of your set-up, and hang it by my desk. I know if I keep looking at it I will figure out a way to mount it.
I'm sure I'll have some more questions shortly, like where I can get parts and such. Thanks Dave

 

[Mike_A]

Tab: I have a L48 and just added dual remotes to the back. My dealer did the work with my input as to location and how i wanted it to look. We did not use Kubota's kit as I did not like the looks of everything on top of the fender. Purchased the SCV and made our own mounting bracket, just above the throttle control. Mounted the four quick attachements vertically on the right side of the ROPS just above the foot rest area of the backhoe. Everything looks very neat, no hose or SCV valves sticking above fender. Would love to show you a picture but don't have the ability to do so at this time. Will be purchasing a digital camera this weekend so hopefully will be able to post a picture later.