L4240 - Recommended Options?
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Baby Grand
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Consider the HD bucket/separate cutting edge?
Bucket hooks.
Maybe some worklights.
You were smart to get the rear remote - wish I had done the same.
Nice machine you're getting!
-Jim
Bucket hooks.
Maybe some worklights.
You were smart to get the rear remote - wish I had done the same.
Nice machine you're getting!
-Jim
boggen
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rear work light, there are many run of the mill cheap work light kits out there. it can take some times to deal with wiring but if you can do it ok, if ya prefer factory back light then pay the extra. it is just one of them things, i end up working right till sun goes down, and by the time i have picked things up and ready to put tractor away it is to dark to unhook stuff from tractor, etc... and that back light is a "saver"
though for me, having a Front and rear work lights, plus regular head lights, is a greater need. and tends to work very well for me. more so FEL work early morning / late night. head lights just do not shine down wards, and having them higher front work lights shine down were ya need it for FEL work. makes it a night and day difference. and allows ya to keep on working through the night. ((do not forget snow storms and getting off work late or like and by the time ya get home it is already dark and needing to plow drive way just to get into it, let alone get out next morning)) granted looking at options through kubuta build a tractor options to get front work lights ya also need to get a delux sunshade. the shade might be nice. but again there are many off brand cheap work lamps out there. that could be hooked up. granted kubota setup more likely has switch and wiring and hole deal ready to go. vs a off the wall kit that would take some time and custom doing to get setup.
draft control. for me, on a general duty multi purpose tractor and that is all i had. i would most likely go for it. i might rarely use it. but there are times when it can be a nice little feature. for me the draft control would come into play with say a rear blade, box blade, 2 or 3 bottom plow (not sure what this tractor can handle) other words. it would come in handy for me. granted it is not need and you can get by without it. it is one of them small things that makes life easier and less frustration. if i had 2 or more tractors it would be a different story and most likely each tractor would be geared to do something different.
creep gear. the old snail paced baby crawl. there been times were i needed horse power and still had plenty of traction to go but not low enough gear ratio examples skidding a log out, pulling a plow, getting someone else unstuck. granted 4wd drive goes a long ways, but hey i like my options to be able to control all the wheels on the tractor independently.
i honestly have had no need for a swinging drawbar. or clevis though size of tractor a swinging draw bar might come in handy for some tasks, perhaps field work?
for me min is 2 rear remotes. one remote can get ya by, but sometimes there that one implement that if you had that second remote, it would be just awesome. and if you do not go for TNT, perhaps down road spending a few bucks on either just the Top or just the Tilt cylinder for the 3pt hitch. and using one remote for that, while other for the implement or what not. the remotes and valves are the one things that could be more trouble and time consuming later down road. ((taking stuff off and running tubes and like)) then making sure valve body (for lever or joystick) has enough things to deal with everything.
===================
the extra forward remote, only if ya going to go with a grapel for general duty bucket, or a 4 in 1 bucket, or front mounted snow blower that is hyd driven, or like for the FEL. and if ya didn't go with a backhoe, the grapel may very well be your friend or the 4 in 1. granted you could always add later down the road.
to be honest 4 in 1 buckets, always seemed "cheaply made" or not strong enough for how i would use and abuse them. granted never actually used one. but if ya do not like a grapel option and no backhoe, 4in1 might be your key.
heavy duty bucket for the FEL. if you are not a welder or know someone that can bring a welder over. then get some chain hooks on top of loader bucket. you can go with bolt ons, but i tend to put to much stuff on chains and having some welded on, for me i think are stronger and less likely to destory a bucket.
bolt on cutting edge is a must if you do not go with a tooth bar. at least for me. i can run into way to meany things that would damage a generic edge on a bucket. along with i do general quick back drag grading on rock and dirt driveways / lanes. and running into stumps to or posts to pop them out etc.. cutting edge is a must for sure. other words a cutting edge is cheaper to replaced than it is to repair or to replace a FEL bucket.
====================
backhoe. it is just one of them things, that myself can no longer live without. i just find to many uses for them. i do not remember how many times all that was available was the FEL. to lift stuff into and out of a pickup truck. and either scratch side or barely putting in small dent into side of truck. due to only way to lift things high enough and get it in truck was to be hair width away from truck and even then had to use ropes to pull stuff around edge of bed of pick truck to get things seated in truck correctly. to just getting my butt unstuck, to dealing with stumps, trenches, move a quick brush pile and pinching it all between bucket and arm of backhoe. the con of backhoe is the cost!! and for some folks on smaller size acre lands it is easier for them to just rent as needed when needed. for me 80acres. being able to get things done at my own time vs dealing with renting. backhoe buying pays off fairly quickly. others not so much. double check 3rd party optoins for backhoes. there might be a cheaper option even after dealing with subframe mount issue for a different model.
if ya go with backhoe, mechanical thumb if ya not a welder. and be done with it. hydraulc thumb is always nice feature. but the extra cash for hyd thumb just not worth it in my eyes. now if i had to pull tons of fence posts move a lot of logs or fire wood around then i would go for the hyd thumb.
go with say a 30" backhoe bucket. and a 12" bucket. if anything go with larger bucket first. due note, you might be able to call around to various places and get used buckets or different 3rd party models cheaper. at least it was for the newholland/ford 555c TLB i have.
the larger bucket is for that dirt moving thing, and the smaller bucket is for them trenches. and getting into tree stumps. a 24" might be enough though for your tractor.
regardless backhoe buckets atleast for me, need "seep holes" in the bottom. part of this is to let rain water out of them, when they are attached to tractor and are set lock postion. anther part, you will always get into some sort of mushy stuff at least i do. and the seep hole/holes allows mud to slide out vs being stuck into the bucket. the FEL bucket is different is is much wider and bigger, granted i have been tempted a couple times to drill a small 1" hole near backside near bottom at each corner. for a couple seep holes.
=====================
if you do not go with a backhoe, then i would look at rear tires filled with a fluid, and/or rear wheel weights. this is primarily due to FEL. and needing counter balance weight. so you do not end up doing "teter totoring" on the front wheels / axel. and even then, perhaps a 3pt implement like a box blade or rear blade or 3pt ballast box to add more weight on the rear.
=====================
sadly adding in all the little addon's quickly adds to being as much as a bare bone tractor costs with nothing on it. if ya know you will be getting this or that implement in a few years. i would say getter done and be done with it now for what the tractors needs to use given implement. so you can get the cost into the financing package if ya go the route.
why deal with perhaps waiting for a savings account to reach so much or taking out a small loan to get something?
there is always an alternative, many folks have the skills to pull off some amazing Pro like doings and many things could be done cheaper. then again others are all about bran name. and dealing with other things vs dealing with the tractor.
though for me, having a Front and rear work lights, plus regular head lights, is a greater need. and tends to work very well for me. more so FEL work early morning / late night. head lights just do not shine down wards, and having them higher front work lights shine down were ya need it for FEL work. makes it a night and day difference. and allows ya to keep on working through the night. ((do not forget snow storms and getting off work late or like and by the time ya get home it is already dark and needing to plow drive way just to get into it, let alone get out next morning)) granted looking at options through kubuta build a tractor options to get front work lights ya also need to get a delux sunshade. the shade might be nice. but again there are many off brand cheap work lamps out there. that could be hooked up. granted kubota setup more likely has switch and wiring and hole deal ready to go. vs a off the wall kit that would take some time and custom doing to get setup.
draft control. for me, on a general duty multi purpose tractor and that is all i had. i would most likely go for it. i might rarely use it. but there are times when it can be a nice little feature. for me the draft control would come into play with say a rear blade, box blade, 2 or 3 bottom plow (not sure what this tractor can handle) other words. it would come in handy for me. granted it is not need and you can get by without it. it is one of them small things that makes life easier and less frustration. if i had 2 or more tractors it would be a different story and most likely each tractor would be geared to do something different.
creep gear. the old snail paced baby crawl. there been times were i needed horse power and still had plenty of traction to go but not low enough gear ratio examples skidding a log out, pulling a plow, getting someone else unstuck. granted 4wd drive goes a long ways, but hey i like my options to be able to control all the wheels on the tractor independently.
i honestly have had no need for a swinging drawbar. or clevis though size of tractor a swinging draw bar might come in handy for some tasks, perhaps field work?
for me min is 2 rear remotes. one remote can get ya by, but sometimes there that one implement that if you had that second remote, it would be just awesome. and if you do not go for TNT, perhaps down road spending a few bucks on either just the Top or just the Tilt cylinder for the 3pt hitch. and using one remote for that, while other for the implement or what not. the remotes and valves are the one things that could be more trouble and time consuming later down road. ((taking stuff off and running tubes and like)) then making sure valve body (for lever or joystick) has enough things to deal with everything.
===================
the extra forward remote, only if ya going to go with a grapel for general duty bucket, or a 4 in 1 bucket, or front mounted snow blower that is hyd driven, or like for the FEL. and if ya didn't go with a backhoe, the grapel may very well be your friend or the 4 in 1. granted you could always add later down the road.
to be honest 4 in 1 buckets, always seemed "cheaply made" or not strong enough for how i would use and abuse them. granted never actually used one. but if ya do not like a grapel option and no backhoe, 4in1 might be your key.
heavy duty bucket for the FEL. if you are not a welder or know someone that can bring a welder over. then get some chain hooks on top of loader bucket. you can go with bolt ons, but i tend to put to much stuff on chains and having some welded on, for me i think are stronger and less likely to destory a bucket.
bolt on cutting edge is a must if you do not go with a tooth bar. at least for me. i can run into way to meany things that would damage a generic edge on a bucket. along with i do general quick back drag grading on rock and dirt driveways / lanes. and running into stumps to or posts to pop them out etc.. cutting edge is a must for sure. other words a cutting edge is cheaper to replaced than it is to repair or to replace a FEL bucket.
====================
backhoe. it is just one of them things, that myself can no longer live without. i just find to many uses for them. i do not remember how many times all that was available was the FEL. to lift stuff into and out of a pickup truck. and either scratch side or barely putting in small dent into side of truck. due to only way to lift things high enough and get it in truck was to be hair width away from truck and even then had to use ropes to pull stuff around edge of bed of pick truck to get things seated in truck correctly. to just getting my butt unstuck, to dealing with stumps, trenches, move a quick brush pile and pinching it all between bucket and arm of backhoe. the con of backhoe is the cost!! and for some folks on smaller size acre lands it is easier for them to just rent as needed when needed. for me 80acres. being able to get things done at my own time vs dealing with renting. backhoe buying pays off fairly quickly. others not so much. double check 3rd party optoins for backhoes. there might be a cheaper option even after dealing with subframe mount issue for a different model.
if ya go with backhoe, mechanical thumb if ya not a welder. and be done with it. hydraulc thumb is always nice feature. but the extra cash for hyd thumb just not worth it in my eyes. now if i had to pull tons of fence posts move a lot of logs or fire wood around then i would go for the hyd thumb.
go with say a 30" backhoe bucket. and a 12" bucket. if anything go with larger bucket first. due note, you might be able to call around to various places and get used buckets or different 3rd party models cheaper. at least it was for the newholland/ford 555c TLB i have.
the larger bucket is for that dirt moving thing, and the smaller bucket is for them trenches. and getting into tree stumps. a 24" might be enough though for your tractor.
regardless backhoe buckets atleast for me, need "seep holes" in the bottom. part of this is to let rain water out of them, when they are attached to tractor and are set lock postion. anther part, you will always get into some sort of mushy stuff at least i do. and the seep hole/holes allows mud to slide out vs being stuck into the bucket. the FEL bucket is different is is much wider and bigger, granted i have been tempted a couple times to drill a small 1" hole near backside near bottom at each corner. for a couple seep holes.
=====================
if you do not go with a backhoe, then i would look at rear tires filled with a fluid, and/or rear wheel weights. this is primarily due to FEL. and needing counter balance weight. so you do not end up doing "teter totoring" on the front wheels / axel. and even then, perhaps a 3pt implement like a box blade or rear blade or 3pt ballast box to add more weight on the rear.
=====================
sadly adding in all the little addon's quickly adds to being as much as a bare bone tractor costs with nothing on it. if ya know you will be getting this or that implement in a few years. i would say getter done and be done with it now for what the tractors needs to use given implement. so you can get the cost into the financing package if ya go the route.
why deal with perhaps waiting for a savings account to reach so much or taking out a small loan to get something?
there is always an alternative, many folks have the skills to pull off some amazing Pro like doings and many things could be done cheaper. then again others are all about bran name. and dealing with other things vs dealing with the tractor.
devildog1
Veteran Member
Exactly what baby Grand has said, look @ heavy duty round back bucket with bolt on cutting edge( Real heavy Duty) also @ least one rear remote.
DevilDog
DevilDog
TripleR
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If you would list your intended projects, it might help to narrow the list down a bit as we can all go a bit overboard if we don't know the actual tasks to be accomplished.
If money was no object, I would load one up, but I have never been in such a situation and have to prioritize needs v wants.
For me, a bare minimum would be one set of rear remotes, rear whee weights or filled tires or both, work lights, hydraulic top link, heavy duty bucket with removable cutting edge and bucket hooks.
Pretty much everything else can be added later if needed.
I have no need for a backhoe, but many do.
If money was no object, I would load one up, but I have never been in such a situation and have to prioritize needs v wants.
For me, a bare minimum would be one set of rear remotes, rear whee weights or filled tires or both, work lights, hydraulic top link, heavy duty bucket with removable cutting edge and bucket hooks.
Pretty much everything else can be added later if needed.
I have no need for a backhoe, but many do.
crazyal
Super Member
The biggest thing I could tell you is to think long and hard about if you'll ever want the mid pto. Assuming you're thinking of getting the open station version the mid pto option requires a lot of work to be installed. If you get it with the tractor the dealer may not charge you labor but if you ever decide down the road I think the cost would probably make buying a new one a more likely option.
Another option to think about is if you ever plan on getting a grapple then the third function valve might be an option. For me I looked at all the options I would want that required a fair bit of labor to install. I figure it's the one chance to get free labor from the dealer.
Another option to think about is if you ever plan on getting a grapple then the third function valve might be an option. For me I looked at all the options I would want that required a fair bit of labor to install. I figure it's the one chance to get free labor from the dealer.
OP
NC4AB
Bronze Member
Thanks for the replies. The L4240 will be a compliment to a Ford 3910, a Ford 8N, Farmall 140 and a Kubota B21 TLB.
Intended uses include bush hogging / finish mowing / planting corn / drilling beans / picking corn / driveway maintenace along with the assorted uses for the FEL.
I already have plans in the works (and materials on hand) to add a cutting edge along with a removable toothbar and to weld some chain hooks on the bucket. I priced the HD bucket but couldn't justify the extra $$$ considering the price and availablity of used and aftermarket buckets in my area. I would be interested if any one has had any trouble with the standard duty bucket from anything other than misuse / abuse.
Worklights are also in my plan to be added on later, not sure if I am going with HID or standard halogen. The FEL on my B21 is pretty much useless after dark if you are utilizing the factory headlights. I would be interested if any one has had success with mounting worklights to the standard ROPS. IMHO you can never have enough lights.
Probably won't do draft control, we have already converted to no till for the corn.
The single rear remote will be needed by the corn planter and disc, when it is not hooked to a hydraulic top link (already ordered). I figure if I need a hydraulic outlet on the front I will add a few feet of hyrdaulic hose and some bulk head fittings on the FEL. (or add a second valve body).
I already have the B21 TLB and the Kubota BH option was almost as much as what I could sell the B21 for so I plan on keeping it.
As far as the mid mount PTO I don't have any attachments that need that.
Thanks
Intended uses include bush hogging / finish mowing / planting corn / drilling beans / picking corn / driveway maintenace along with the assorted uses for the FEL.
I already have plans in the works (and materials on hand) to add a cutting edge along with a removable toothbar and to weld some chain hooks on the bucket. I priced the HD bucket but couldn't justify the extra $$$ considering the price and availablity of used and aftermarket buckets in my area. I would be interested if any one has had any trouble with the standard duty bucket from anything other than misuse / abuse.
Worklights are also in my plan to be added on later, not sure if I am going with HID or standard halogen. The FEL on my B21 is pretty much useless after dark if you are utilizing the factory headlights. I would be interested if any one has had success with mounting worklights to the standard ROPS. IMHO you can never have enough lights.
Probably won't do draft control, we have already converted to no till for the corn.
The single rear remote will be needed by the corn planter and disc, when it is not hooked to a hydraulic top link (already ordered). I figure if I need a hydraulic outlet on the front I will add a few feet of hyrdaulic hose and some bulk head fittings on the FEL. (or add a second valve body).
I already have the B21 TLB and the Kubota BH option was almost as much as what I could sell the B21 for so I plan on keeping it.
As far as the mid mount PTO I don't have any attachments that need that.
Thanks
TripleR
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It sounds like you pretty well have it covered.
We neglected to reinforce the top of the lip on the M8540 and the middle hook is bent, it could be termed "misuse", but that can happen with different operators.
I have been moving 6" rock with my L5030 and the HD bucket has been worth it. Misuse/abuse covers what a lot of farmers do daily and bent buckets are not uncommon around here; noticed a couple the other day. You know tractors, so your experience with your operations are going to count more than mine.
Good luck with your new tractor.
We neglected to reinforce the top of the lip on the M8540 and the middle hook is bent, it could be termed "misuse", but that can happen with different operators.
I have been moving 6" rock with my L5030 and the HD bucket has been worth it. Misuse/abuse covers what a lot of farmers do daily and bent buckets are not uncommon around here; noticed a couple the other day. You know tractors, so your experience with your operations are going to count more than mine.
Good luck with your new tractor.
om21braz
Veteran Member
NC4AB, judging by your signature, you're just a hop, skip and a jump from me - Welcome to TBN! After looking over the replies, the only I thing I have to add would be to look at your use of the loader. Will there be heavy use, almost loaded loaded to the maximum? If so, I'd check the weight rating on those R1 tires - there was recently a discussion in one of the forums here noting how much more weight the standard R4's were rated at vs. the standard R1's. Maybe someone else here can chime in with a link to that thread or more info.
You have a top notch machine picked out, where are you buying from - if I may ask?
You have a top notch machine picked out, where are you buying from - if I may ask?
PHILIP8N
Veteran Member
I would go for the heavy duty round back bucket, that is what I have, and from filling with rip-rap to lifting with hooks, I have never had an issue. I started with no remotes, then went to one, and just recently added the second. So, I would also get two rear remotes. Here are my lights, but my thoughts on rops may be different than yours. Philip.
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boggen
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swinging draw bar? say square bailer and hay wagon behind that. for tighter turn in the hey field?
with om21braz, double check the "ply" rating for the tires. higher the number the better. but a higher ply rating can also mean a rougher ride. due to thicker stronger rubber tires.
loaded rear tires, Plus rear wheel weights? sounds like you will be doing enough field use, and then go right back into FEL use. that the extra rear weight. could help get you a long in the field, and then help ya counter balance weight when using FEL
==============
U bolts or get some muffler clamps to attach working lights to ROPs. there be a few folks i have seen recent pictures of doing this.
the rear work light would most likely be ok. but front work lights off ROPs. don't know. never been in that situation before. all i can think of, is "shadows" from me and fenders and FEL arms and not showing a good hard constant light were you might want it. for using FEL at night. perhaps front work lights kinda like ears on your head and sticking off sides of ROPS with maybe a little short extension.
to bad most fenders are cheap flimsy plastic now adays. would say mount to front of rear fenders for front work lights. if you have room between the FEL sub frame, and front dash / cluster. perhaps running a pole or like up on each side. and mounting the front work lights up on that. or getting a cheaper 3rd party sun shade. and mount lights on it.
*rubs chin* not sure how long the fenders would last. get a couple peices of flat sheets of metal. grind down the edges into discs and keep edges dull. mount a piece on top and bottom of fender. drill some holes for some bolts and mount front work lights. the work lights are not that heavy. they are just easy to break being they also are cheap plastic as well, and if bush hogging you might see a front work light go by by, if mounted to a fender.
with om21braz, double check the "ply" rating for the tires. higher the number the better. but a higher ply rating can also mean a rougher ride. due to thicker stronger rubber tires.
loaded rear tires, Plus rear wheel weights? sounds like you will be doing enough field use, and then go right back into FEL use. that the extra rear weight. could help get you a long in the field, and then help ya counter balance weight when using FEL
==============
U bolts or get some muffler clamps to attach working lights to ROPs. there be a few folks i have seen recent pictures of doing this.
the rear work light would most likely be ok. but front work lights off ROPs. don't know. never been in that situation before. all i can think of, is "shadows" from me and fenders and FEL arms and not showing a good hard constant light were you might want it. for using FEL at night. perhaps front work lights kinda like ears on your head and sticking off sides of ROPS with maybe a little short extension.
to bad most fenders are cheap flimsy plastic now adays. would say mount to front of rear fenders for front work lights. if you have room between the FEL sub frame, and front dash / cluster. perhaps running a pole or like up on each side. and mounting the front work lights up on that. or getting a cheaper 3rd party sun shade. and mount lights on it.
*rubs chin* not sure how long the fenders would last. get a couple peices of flat sheets of metal. grind down the edges into discs and keep edges dull. mount a piece on top and bottom of fender. drill some holes for some bolts and mount front work lights. the work lights are not that heavy. they are just easy to break being they also are cheap plastic as well, and if bush hogging you might see a front work light go by by, if mounted to a fender.
bbraud6
Bronze Member
+1 on getting the heavy duty bucket. Wish I would have on my jd 3320. Also bucket hooks are much more usefull than i imagined.
dex3361
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I have the HD round back bucket(with SSQD) on my L4400 and it is a strong bucket. That said I was helping my buddy weld some hooks onto his and it is a very sturdy bucket as well. I would think you would be well served with either.
devildog1
Veteran Member
The round back heavy duty bucket is if my memory correct about 200 lbs. heaver the the standard bucket, beefier steel all around, and HD bolt on cutting edge
DevilDog
DevilDog
PHILIP8N
Veteran Member
One of the things that makes the HD round back bucket so strong is the pipe going across the top. I did not reinforce my hooks when I welded them on because of that. With a standard bucket, you may want to add pads to help spread out the load under the hooks. Philip.
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Baby Grand
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Aha! I knew there was something I forgot. Until a very short while ago I was not aware that there are R1s, and then there are R1s. I think the 4 plys are std, but there are 6 and maybe higher ply count tires available. The higher ply count tires have higher max load ratings.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/126949-4-ply-6-ply-front.html
-Jim
MichiganIron
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Saw a lot of talk on here about front and rear facing worklights, we manufacture a light bar that u-bolts onto the ROPS to face down over the FEL bucket, its is completely watertight and includes switches for the lights in the bar, check it out at:
Michigan Iron & Equipment: Kioti Dealer
Michigan Iron & Equipment: Kioti Dealer
PHILIP8N
Veteran Member
$275 for two front lights and one rear light! You gotta be kidding me! Plus, the way they hang out there, I would have them knocked off in a week. I have less than $50 for all four of my lights, two waterproof switches, fuse, wire, and bolts. You can get one of these nice light bars from Northern Tool for $140, and it has four lights built in. Get two, one for front and back, with eight lights total, for the same price as yours! Nice product, but there are better options. Sorry, but thats my honest opinion. Philip.
http://www.google.com/products/cata...=X&ei=hgEFToL_EMXJgQfGudTLDQ&ved=0CDUQ8wIwBA#
crazyal
Super Member
I didn't think you would need a mid pto but just wanted to point it out. I went with the standard bucket. I figured the extra weight of the HD bucket would reduce the amount I could lift. Of course I also have a full sized BH that can lift a lot more. Buckets are meant to get beat up, just a part of life. If you're going to add a tooth bar then is a removable cutting edge really needed?
I have some work lights I bought that I haven't mounted yet. I figure I'll mount them to the ROPS in a way that they stick down. While snow blowing you will find yourself outside in the dark sooner or later and the headlights only do so much.
I'm not sure if you can pick and choose which R1 tires you can get. You'd have to check with your dealer.
I have some work lights I bought that I haven't mounted yet. I figure I'll mount them to the ROPS in a way that they stick down. While snow blowing you will find yourself outside in the dark sooner or later and the headlights only do so much.
I'm not sure if you can pick and choose which R1 tires you can get. You'd have to check with your dealer.
Here are some similar links:
