L6060HSTC Initial Impressions

   / L6060HSTC Initial Impressions #31  
Oh snap! Glad your ok. When fueling turn the engine off, than turn the key to the run position. As you fuel up the tractor will beep. The beeping gets faster as you get closer to full and goes to a solid tone when full. Agree the auto high/low is kind of a pain, it doesn't downshift till the engine is lugging too much for me and jumps back too quickly. I also turn off the auto throttle and just fix the throttle according to what I am doing.
 
   / L6060HSTC Initial Impressions
  • Thread Starter
#32  
Oh snap! Glad your ok. When fueling turn the engine off, than turn the key to the run position. As you fuel up the tractor will beep. The beeping gets faster as you get closer to full and goes to a solid tone when full. Agree the auto high/low is kind of a pain, it doesn't downshift till the engine is lugging too much for me and jumps back too quickly. I also turn off the auto throttle and just fix the throttle according to what I am doing.

When the key is on run I didn’t hear beeping. But I gave up pretty quick. It sounds like the fuel pump runs when it is in the run position. Does that hurt anything to leave it like that for a few minutes? It made me paranoid and when I didn’t hear beeping within about 30 seconds I reached in and turned it off.

Today we had about 3” of heavy wet snow. I didn’t have a problem pushing it off with the loader. I’ll be glad when I have a rear blade setup as the loader messes up the driveway too much. My father in law has a super old rusted one I hope to restore this year and put a piece of rubber mat on as per some suggestions on the forums to try to prevent damage to my gravel. The blade is 8’ but too light to do anything serious with my tractor without breaking the frame. He had it hooked to an old Ford I think an 8N.

I’m starting to get the hang of the loader joystick. Once I get the rpms up a bit it responds very accurately with light touch.
 
   / L6060HSTC Initial Impressions #33  
I plowed some today with mine and am so-far very pleased as well......
The only thing I wish this tractor had was more than one speed on the windshield wiper, I'm going to try to figure out a way to remedy that, years ago you could buy a box that installed on the windshield wipers in cars to accomplish this but since all cars now come with this option I doubt it's readily available anymore...
 

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   / L6060HSTC Initial Impressions
  • Thread Starter
#34  
I plowed some today with mine and am so-far very pleased as well......
The only thing I wish this tractor had was more than one speed on the windshield wiper, I'm going to try to figure out a way to remedy that, years ago you could buy a box that installed on the windshield wipers in cars to accomplish this but since all cars now come with this option I doubt it's readily available anymore...

Interesting, I could see that as an issue. I haven’t had to use the wipers yet as it stopped snowing by the time I was off work.

I love the front plow setup you have. That looks very convenient.

At some point I need to test the washers this week when it is warm enough to know I won’t have issues.

What is the best way to clean the inside of the cab, especially the floor? Can they simply be hosed our like a ROPS model? I figure it will get muddy here in a few days with the expected weather pattern coming up.

Matt
 
   / L6060HSTC Initial Impressions #35  
There is open cell foam, basically carpet pad under the rubber floor mat. Given the cut out for the HST pedal & what not I wouldn't advise getting water under there. That foam will suck it up & hold onto it for quite a while.

I just use my shop vac to clean it occasionally.
 
   / L6060HSTC Initial Impressions #36  
When the key is on run I didn’t hear beeping. But I gave up pretty quick. It sounds like the fuel pump runs when it is in the run position. Does that hurt anything to leave it like that for a few minutes? It made me paranoid and when I didn’t hear beeping within about 30 seconds I reached in and turned it off.

Today we had about 3” of heavy wet snow. I didn’t have a problem pushing it off with the loader. I’ll be glad when I have a rear blade setup as the loader messes up the driveway too much. My father in law has a super old rusted one I hope to restore this year and put a piece of rubber mat on as per some suggestions on the forums to try to prevent damage to my gravel. The blade is 8’ but too light to do anything serious with my tractor without breaking the frame. He had it hooked to an old Ford I think an 8N.

I’m starting to get the hang of the loader joystick. Once I get the rpms up a bit it responds very accurately with light touch.

Excellent thread. I have had my L4060 for almost 2 years and it’s been a joy to operate.
I also like backblades. My go to snow removal setup is a 7 foot blade up front, and one on the rear. Use a 6 foot rear mount blower for big snows. As far as bucket use for snow removal (especially on gravel) check out edge tamers. They bolt on over the cutting edge and work very well.
 
   / L6060HSTC Initial Impressions #37  
I tried turning the key on with a full tank and there was no tone at all. Maybe the tank needs to be below a set level to trigger? There is a lot of noise with the engine off and key in run position. It doesn't seem to hurt anything to leave it that way for a few minutes.

I usually don't have the shop vac in the garage. If its dry and the cab is too dirty to stand I open the doors and windows and use a backpack blower to clean. It does a pretty good job and I just have to wipe down the dash and screen. Speaking of cleaning, why does Kubota use a fuzzy headliner? Dirt, grease, pollen, etc. sticks to it like velcro.
 
   / L6060HSTC Initial Impressions
  • Thread Starter
#38  
I did get the fuel beeping to happen today. It doesn't start beeping until it is near full, like maybe 1-2 gallons left. Then it starts beeping, and gets faster as you get fuller. I didn't have enough fuel to get to the solid tone.

One point of caution is the Eagle type 1 metal diesel cans do not work well with the tractor. The reason is the amber light that is right above the fuel fill cap prevents you from tipping the tank enough to get all the fuel out of it. I ended up spilling a little fuel today trying to get the can at the perfect angle to get the last bit out. It was a real headache. I tried to find a type 2 can (with the metal long nozzle) around here, but the big box stores don't sell them, likely because of the cost. The funnel is also somewhat of a pain in the rear to deal with on the Eagle can. However, it definitely is much faster than anything else I've tried to date.

The AC has been helping keep the windows defogged, but today I really could have used my defoggers. I had to leave the rear window open so I could see what I was doing and prevent any further fogging.

One thing I haven't figured out is the regen process. The dash says I am at 96% PM. Does regen start when I hit 100%? I figured it would start before then to give you some cushion. I've also wondered if I can just start the regen early, like today I started out at around 90% PM and when removing snow would have been a perfect time to regen since it took me a while.

I also haven't figured out all the three point pieces. I haven't removed the backhoe yet as it is supposed to go back to the dealer Monday to install the defogger switch and for them to look over a few other minor things I have pointed out in this thread. It looks like the three point system needs wrenches to install. If so I am somewhat disappointed in this because I figured it would be faster to install and uninstall, as everyone raves how easy it is to remove and install the backhoe.

I have three pins I have not quite figured out. I think the fourth one is a cat II top link pin which I inserted into the top link so I didn't lose it. These other three pins I haven't figured out what they are for yet.
pins.jpg

And here are the lift arm pieces:
arms.jpg

I think when it comes back from the dealer next time I may drop the hoe and try to figure it all out. My concern is if I have all the parts I need so I don't go to use my blade and realize I can't work until I get the correct parts.

Snow removal today was wet snow with very soft ground underneath. The tractor did great as usual on the driveway. I did notice yesterday when trying to drop my grapple and get the bucket attached that the R4 tires do slide very bad in thick wet mud. Once the treads fill up, you pretty much loose steering. I haven't had to do anything in the mud other than move the tractor to install the front implements. I'm trying to avoid using it right now because after our hard freeze the ground thawed and you can't even walk on it without sinking in and making huge footprints.

Matt
 
   / L6060HSTC Initial Impressions #39  
What about a tank and pump for refueling. You can find used ones on Craigslist pretty reasonably. 5 Gallon cans get old when you start filling big tanks.

Regen starts at 100%. The leftmost switch on the left side (sorry don't have the manual handy) needs to be on to allow regen. I don't know if there is a way to trigger regeneration early. I usually go 12-18 engine hours between region cycles. Interestingly, plowing the last 13 inch storm caused the PM reading to decrease without regeneration. Can't help on pins or three point arms as mine haven't been off. Maybe a cat 1 toplink pin and cat 1 to 2 bushing?

Most of my use is off road and its muddy here more than I like. The R4s on my last tractor would load up and get slippery although chains helped some. I went with R1s on this tractor and they are much better off road. Jim
 
   / L6060HSTC Initial Impressions #40  
Unfortunately there is no way to force a regen before 100 percent, but you can press the inhibit button to delay regen. I’ve never bothered inhibiting regen, and barely notice the cycle when it starts.
 

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