L6060HSTC Initial Impressions

[mljenkins]

What about a tank and pump for refueling. You can find used ones on Craigslist pretty reasonably. 5 Gallon cans get old when you start filling big tanks.

Regen starts at 100%. The leftmost switch on the left side (sorry don't have the manual handy) needs to be on to allow regen. I don't know if there is a way to trigger regeneration early. I usually go 12-18 engine hours between region cycles. Interestingly, plowing the last 13 inch storm caused the PM reading to decrease without regeneration. Can't help on pins or three point arms as mine haven't been off. Maybe a cat 1 toplink pin and cat 1 to 2 bushing?

Most of my use is off road and its muddy here more than I like. The R4s on my last tractor would load up and get slippery although chains helped some. I went with R1s on this tractor and they are much better off road. Jim

I have considered a tank and pump but the pumps I think are expensive and I worry about having fuel sit over a year not used. I usually go through about 45 gallon a year maybe. I was getting it in the 14 gallon container I had but it won’t work for the new tractor. I see a lot of people using plastic barrels and I suppose I could lift one out of the truck with the loader. Just seems like a pain.

I thought the regen was automatic and that one switch was to tell it to regen if parked?

I wondered if the PM would decrease some automatically if you worked the tractor hard.

I have I think 22 hours on it now which is insane as I have never put that many hours on a tractor in the winter. I forgot how cold it was this morning until I got out of the cab to add fuel. Definitely nice to be able to get work done in the winter now. It will greatly speed up my cleanup around here so I can get these garbage tasks done when the weather is bad and use the warmer weather for more important stuff. Very thankful for that.

Matt

 

[Fallon]

Interestingly, plowing the last 13 inch storm caused the PM reading to decrease without regeneration.

All regen does is dump in extra fuel that ends up burning to heat the DPF. If you really make your engine work hard & earn it's keep it puts out a lot of heat all on it's own. That heat will help burn off the soot without a full on regen.

 

[mljenkins]

All regen does is dump in extra fuel that ends up burning to heat the DPF. If you really make your engine work hard & earn it's keep it puts out a lot of heat all on it's own. That heat will help burn off the soot without a full on regen.

How does it determine the PM? Is that a sensor or does it calculate it by runtime/rpms/temp?

 

[JimP]

Now you made me pull out the owner's manual . The tractor is in inhibit mode by default - it doesn't regen unless the operator sets it up. The leftmost button is the auto regeneration switch, when it is on regeneration will happen automatically when PM reaches 100% even if working. The middle button is a parked regeneration button - it allows regeneration while the tractor is parked.

 

[RjCorazza]

The early L60 tractors do in fact operate this way. I believe sometime in 2015 (?) Kubota reversed this so that the machine will enter regen by default, and depressing the switch inhibits regen. Sheepfarmer did an in depth write up of dpf operation of the L60 tractors. It’s well worth reading, particularly with parked regens.

 

[jeff9366]

I am waiting for a critical comment on the really cheesy friction lock for 3-Point Postion Control. I modified mine so it will hold. It would be so cheap for Kubota to improve the friction lock.

I do quite a bit of mowing with a Rotary Cutter. I need to adjust the Position Control friction lock fairly often for uniform and optimal results.

 

[RjCorazza]

I never use the 3pt lock, but it is pretty poorly made. My only real complaint is the lifting arm leveler. My previous L3410 had a nice crank level for the arm, and the L60’s have that sliding box that is not nearly as convenient.

 

[Buppies]

Nice addition enjoyed reading this thread.

 

[bdhsfz6]

I have considered a tank and pump but the pumps I think are expensive and I worry about having fuel sit over a year not used. I usually go through about 45 gallon a year maybe. I was getting it in the 14 gallon container I had but it won稚 work for the new tractor. I see a lot of people using plastic barrels and I suppose I could lift one out of the truck with the loader. Just seems like a pain.

Matt

My L6060 uses a LOT more fuel than my older tractors and hauling fuel cans got to be a problem. I picked up a used 30 gal plastic barrel, mounted it to a simple wheeled cart and bought this cheap $25 hand pump:

Ironton Cast Iron Rotary Hand Pump | Rotary Pumps| Northern Tool + Equipment

At first, I loaded it in my pickup and filled it at the local gas station from their off road diesel pump. Like you said, it got to be a pain. I took a tip from my diesel mechanic neighbor and began filling the barrel with #2 fuel oil from my 550 gal oil burner storage tank. I checked with the Kubota dealer who said he couldn't "officially" recommend doing this but he said a lot of his customers do it. Kubota says to use ultra low sulfur diesel fuel. According to the fuel oil delivery company, the oil they sell is now by law, ultra low sulfur. I filter it before putting it in the tank and I've never had a problem. I guess it isn't an option though if you don't have oil heat.

 

[JimP]

I am waiting for a critical comment on the really cheesy friction lock for 3-Point Postion Control. I modified mine so it will hold. It would be so cheap for Kubota to improve the friction lock.

Absolutely agree!!! I thought the 5240 was poor but the 5460 is even worse. It wouldn't be acceptable on a cheap video game never mind a premium tractor.

To the OP, I haven't kept track of my fuel consumption but with a 6060 you may find yourself using more than 50 gallons a year. 5 gallon cans may not be much fun when you need to fill the 13 gallon tank.