Landscape Rake Build

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  • Thread Starter
#121  
SkunkWerX said:
I use one of these for blasting:
34202.gif


Harbor Freight 40 lb. blaster

It does a good job. I try to use slag as blasting media, whenever I can get ahold of some, great stuff.

Skunk,

Now I will too! I just picked up and assembled my 40 # blaster. Got it for 79.99 in-store special, 20% off.

Tell me more about that Slag you use for blast media, like, what is it? where do you get it, how much? how is it packaged? weight / volume? Can you somehow catch and recycle / re-use it?

Larry
 
   / Landscape Rake Build
  • Thread Starter
#122  
3RRL said:
Good thing I had my welding helmet on when I looked at your photos.
Great progress Larry. No doubt there is a lot of prep work and set up behind the scenes. That is a big project when you consider all that you're doing. Thanks for keeping us in the loop with the stories and great pictures.
I know how time consuming just that part is, and I appreciate it and I'm sure the others do too.

Thank you Rob,

Yes, very time consuming and as you surmised, allot of prep and setup behind the scenes, but also very rewarding. Like you and many others, I very much enjoy being creative, making something become reality from idea to design, fabrication and overcoming challenges. This is more complicated and time consuming than my dump trailer. Although this rake is smaller in size, the amount of interrelated parts are more challenging for sure. Still, no where near the level of complexity and precision machining required for you to build that gear box for our joint 360* rotating blade project or one of those injection molds you are so famous for. Building this "little" rake humbles me and allows me to appreciate all that much more what goes into making just about anything. You must be going through withdrawals by now with all your machine tools transitioning between Rancho and your beautiful new Log home up there in Three Rivers, you know, the one with the new awesome "Barn" shop.

Larry
 
   / Landscape Rake Build
  • Thread Starter
#123  
J_J said:
Those welds look right decent. Hope you don't mind if we try and copy come of your projects.

That is very kind of you J.J.

I see you must have had an "adult beverage" so the welds look better to you too ;) Well you can copy anything, just so long as you let me use your plasma cutter when you get it online :D. Are you kidding me, you have a CNC table plasma cutter, just sitting in a box :confused: What in the world is wrong with you man :rolleyes: J/K. OK, so when will you at least see if it works? after the warranty expires? Just a challenge for you to try that thing out.

Thanks for the compliment J.J. and I hope you don't mind the ribbing. I see lucky you has a new Northern Tool store opening, I suppose that could be a blessing or a curse LOL. I like much of what they carry online, But stopped ordering from them due to very poor packaging. Half my stuff was missing because their cheesy boxes and lousy packing tape are almost always destroyed by the time it gets to me.


Larry
 
   / Landscape Rake Build #124  
Larry,

The "Slag" is a byproduct, it's Coal Slag.

I got mine from a friend who runs a golf course. They use it , not as an abrasive, but for helping to warm the greens in the winter to melt snow when it is sunny out, since the slag is black.

Here is a link for informational purposes only, i haven't dealt with thesre folks:
Slag

Ask any shop that does professional blasting in your area, and they should be able to direct you to a supply of the stuff.

Also, Aluminum Oxide is a very good abrasive "cutter".


Here are some seat of the pants methods I use for recycling blast media:

Spread out a tarp or some clear plastic. Use a piece of plywood as a back stop, but not too close or it will deflect media back at you, think "Sand storm".
Once finished blasting, you will have a good deal of media on the tarp.
The problem is you will also have paint peices, scale, etc.
Pour it through a piece of window screen to get out any larger chunks.
(Don't let your wife know you use her kitchen window screen for other purposes). :D

You will have fine dust in with your media, which makes for cloudier blasting next time around. I have heard of people "washing" their blast media, to rinse out the dust and dirt, then you are looking at a day or so for a drying cycle.

You can also construct a portable/temporary blast "tent" out of 2x2s and clear plastic, just cut some slits/air vents in the back, so the blast media doesn't come back at you. Use a tarp floor to catch the media.

Harbor Freight does have 25 lb. boxes of various blast media, so you could try some Alum Oxide, for example, if they are within a decent proximity.

if you want to blast aluminum, brass and lighter products, you can use walnut shells, corn cob media and such, HF has them also.

The Playsand flows nicely, but keep as much moisture out of the sand and system as possible. We have humid summers here on the east coast, so, I do battle the moisture, which can cause clogs and/or poor flow.

I have seen people use regular construction grade sand for ugly super-rusted pieces. I shy away from it due to it's usual high moisture content. If you have a way to dry the sand, do so before usage. Simply spreadeing it out loosely , over night, in low humidity will do the trick. Then I put it in a used 5 gallon bucket with a sealable lid.

My blast hood is long gone. A used pair of Motorcycle, ATV, Snowmobile goggles works well, then wrap a T-shirt around your head and face , desert-nomad style. If I need to be up close, I'll grab a small piece of plexi-glass and hold it up to keep some of the blast directed away. Those disposable white "space" jumpsuits also keep media out of your clothes.


Have fun Larry, Blast away!! ;)
 
   / Landscape Rake Build #125  
Also, Safety tip for blasting:

"As a safety precaution please remember that Silica Sand Abrasive Media can be fatal if inhaled. Please consider this factor prior to using that type of media. Always wear protective breathing equipment when sandblasting."


Silicosis of the lungs, not good, avoid it at all costs.
 
   / Landscape Rake Build #127  
J_J said:
This is a new blasting technique that I did not know about. Approved for food service plus a lot of other things.

Dry Ice Blasting - Dry Ice Cleaning Technology - CO2 Blasting

I first learned of this technology back in the early '90's when the engineering company I worked for was doing a conceptual design for a walk-in dry ice blasting booth for DOE's INEL (Idaho National Engineering Lab), a top secret nuclear research facility with lots of nasty stuff up there.
 
   / Landscape Rake Build
  • Thread Starter
#128  
The CO2 blaster is very COOL :cool: Somehow I don't think the average home shop dude like me will be using that anytime soon.


Here is the latest progress report for the perpetual rake build...
The Index plate needed some machining, two holes for cylinders needed drilled to 1.00" and the center hole bored out to 2.4375". The bar that holds the rake tines needed two 1.50" id holes to insert some 1.0" ID X 1.5" OD DOM (Drawn Over Mandrel) A.K.A. seamless tubing, this will be for cylinder pins. Unfortunately I failed to cut those holes BEFORE welding the darn thing up. So I had to carry it onto the basement and clamp the monstrosity to my machine. It really wasn't that hard to do that ;)





The DOM tubing will be welded in place at a later time.


Larry
 
   / Landscape Rake Build
  • Thread Starter
#129  
Next it was back to the TPH saddle mount. I finally welded on the arms and test fit the 3/4" top link pin and the 1-3/8" hardened chromed pin used for the swivel offset feature.





Short video showing the fit I was able to achieve on those two pins.





I am so relieved those pins fit and slide in out as well as they do. Taking the time to make sure everything was accurate really paid off.


Larry
 
   / Landscape Rake Build
  • Thread Starter
#130  
Next is to build a mount for the swivel / offset cylinder. That was an entire project unto it's own, 15 shots of that bad boy. First was to fit a 3/4" thick x 4" wide flat bar into position, transfer holes for the cylinder mount, drill and tap four 1/2-13 holes......





Then cut at a 43* angle to match the angle of the arms. The parts were small enough to into my blast cabinet filled with glass beads. A before and after shot of that......





Re clamp the finished parts into position and weld.....




Larry
 
   / Landscape Rake Build
  • Thread Starter
#131  
Time to make a 1/2 thick washer 1.66" ID X 2.5" OD. That washer will slip over the top of a piece of pipe being used as a hinge for reenforcement.





See the washer I just made on top of the pipe? Hey, the boom is starting to look like some sort of monster with a dorsal fin. Oh and I put in a couple of grease fittings too.





After all that, I got to weld and test fit the boom into the TPH saddle and test mount the swivel offset cylinder......




Amazingly, everything seems to fit.

That's it for this update -

Larry
 
   / Landscape Rake Build #132  
Larry, it's a good thing your basement shop is in a walkout basement. I'd hate to be lugging those components up and down the stairs to my basement shop.
 
   / Landscape Rake Build #133  
Awesome Larry ... that's all I can say!
Oh, and I'll bet that was fun carrying and setting up that monstrosity into you shop to add those holes.
Having done that before, it's fortunate you were able to set it up as one unit without having to dismantle something.
(Don't ask me how I know :confused: )
 
   / Landscape Rake Build #134  
Ok just marking it for a view in My Home.

But this has got me thinking and I'm now building a rake, not near as fancy but it'll probably rake all the same. I already have the tines from Agri supply and some of the fab work done. I had a nice 5" piece of thin web channel left over from my trailer build, 5' long...perfect! I'll post some pictures soon. Mine will not swivel, still not sure I see the real need for that in my case, but it will fit into my multi implement tool bar!!

Rob
 

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   / Landscape Rake Build
  • Thread Starter
#135  
mjncad said:
Larry, it's a good thing your basement shop is in a walkout basement. I'd hate to be lugging those components up and down the stairs to my basement shop.

Ha - more like a walk up and out shop. At lease it's only half underground so there are only 6 steps, it's a straight shot from the garage. Much of my equipment was lowered down there on a furniture dolly using an ATV winch. When needed I attach a sheet of plywood over the stairs as a ramp. One really nice thing about a basement shop - the temperature in the summer is no more than 65* and about 55* in the dead of winter, I guess thats two nice things. Oh and the Wife never comes down there so I don't have to clean up, I guess that makes four :D

3RRL said:
Awesome Larry ... that's all I can say!
Oh, and I'll bet that was fun carrying and setting up that monstrosity into you shop to add those holes.
Having done that before, it's fortunate you were able to set it up as one unit without having to dismantle something.
(Don't ask me how I know :confused: )

Thanks for the feedback Rob, I sure hope it's wasn't any project you did for me. As far as getting the tine holder down into the basement I got help from my daughters boyfriend, at least he's good something. After we set it over the cross slide, I took it from there, it was a piece of cake after that.


RobJ-

Looks like your rake is already half built and a good candidate for the CO2 blaster J.J posted about . What was it you called it? a multi impliment tool bar? Just weld on whatever you need it to do for you, I like that.
Be sure to start a thread documenting your project. No doubt if you bolt on some tines it will rake just the same. Which tines did you get from Agri Supply?

Larry
 
   / Landscape Rake Build #136  
Larry,

It's a work of art!!
I like the KingPin design in the A-frame, that's top notch. :D
 
   / Landscape Rake Build #137  
GuglioLS said:
RobJ-

Looks like your rake is already half built and a good candidate for the CO2 blaster J.J posted about . What was it you called it? a multi impliment tool bar? Just weld on whatever you need it to do for you, I like that.
Be sure to start a thread documenting your project. No doubt if you bolt on some tines it will rake just the same. Which tines did you get from Agri Supply?

Larry

Here is a link Larry,

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/124554-my-rake-build.html

The 2 hole Agri-supply tines, spaced 1.25". Yeah not having to rebuild the 3pt makes the project a lot easier, not to mention the swivel base to!!

Rob
 
   / Landscape Rake Build #138  
GuglioLS said:
Oh boy here we go.............





Well it works better than expected. At least I'm impressed. I got a little over 45* so some sort of a stop at the bottom of the die should allow for more precise bends. Thank you Renze for the idea of using C channel to make a die. The anvil is not too shabby either. Check out these close up's of the bend.....




With this setup I should be able to accurately bend up to 1/2 thick by 3" wide flat bar for the TPH mount on the Rake project. Maybe I'll get to that by mid week?


Larry


Larry,

Looking at the video picture, I noticed that you chose to bend on the thin side of the bending box. I believe that is 3/8 in channel decreasing down to 1/4 at the top. It appears to have done a decent job on the 3 in wide by 1/2 in steel. If you were to bend some metal on the 1/2 in sides, do you think it would bend 4 in wide by 1/2 in thick? Is the channel 3 or 4 in wide?
 
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   / Landscape Rake Build
  • Thread Starter
#139  
J_J said:
If you were to bend some metal on the 1/2 in sides, do you think it would bend 4 in wide by 1/2 in thick? Is the channel 3 or 4 in wide?

J.J.,
The channel is 4" wide. The die I made is 4" X 4" square. Do I think it would bend 1/2" x 4"? On a 20 ton press it would be close, maybe right on the edge of it's limits. You are correct in that it did bend 1/2" x 3" hot rolled flat bar, the 20 ton air over hydraulic bottle jack was straining a bit. 1/2" x 4" would be a close call. If not, the width of the die could be increased to 5". I think for sure it would bend 1/2" x 4" that way, but of course the radius of the bend would increase a bit.

In the video you quoted me on, that was a test piece of 1/2 x 2.5" if you go back and listen to the sounds of the air motor on the test piece and compare it to the sound on the 1/2" x 3" wide bar (page 7 reply# 63) there is a noticeable difference in the load on the press motor. If I had a scrap piece of 1/2" x 4" I'd try it out for you to find out for sure. Did you still want me to make you an Anvil? if so I need a picture of your press and the O.D. of the stock anvil so as to machine one to fit.

Larry
 
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   / Landscape Rake Build
  • Thread Starter
#140  
SkunkWerX said:
Larry,

It's a work of art!!
I like the KingPin design in the A-frame, that's top notch. :D

What a nice compliment - Thank you Sir SkunkWerX ! :) I see you have good taste! Those types of replies make this all worth it. As long as this was going to be built from scratch, coupled with the fact I will own it for the rest of my able bodied life (however long or short that might be) might as well engineer in all the features that interest me the most, like articulating swivel, angle to windrow, and ability to set the tine bar forward or backward. Making "stuff" out of metal (or wood) is my passionate hobby, so what the heck. I look at it this way - even if some of those features seem unneeded for a rake, I can never be sorry I don't have those features at my disposal. But since I plan on using this thing to groom my trails where one side is a mountain and the other a drop off, I know I will be using the swivel and windrow feature for sure. Not only that I can get close to the edge of a fence with the rake keeping my FEL bucket and tires at a safe distance.

Larry
 

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