Light bar

[fishfrank]

Is it possible to add a light bar to the ROPS and tie into the headlight wiring using the factory switch to operate them? I would leave the factory headlights unplugged since they are pretty much useless to me. I’m dumb on electrical things. It’s a DK40SE

 

[Roadworthy]

Possible, yes. Practical, maybe. You need to take into consideration the current draw of the proposed light bar and the current capability of headlight circuit and wiring. Additionally you should not drill any holes in the ROPS. Use clamps or U bolts instead.

 

[ptsg]

Plus, most Light bars come with its own wiring already setup. Relay, switch, fuse, etc. All you need to do is trim the wires to suit your needs. Hook the red wire to the battery positive, the black to the negative and you're good to go.

 

[i7win7]

Adding your own electrical system gives you the most flexibility when adding electrical devices

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...ng-electrical-devices-tractor.html?highlight=
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/429676-1-cool-rops-accessory.html

 

[rademamj1]

Just tap directly into the main 12v line or battery, install your own switch and fuse, and then route directly to the LED Bar. Clamp those bars, no drilling of any type, which could weaken the ROP. Also consider switching your low performance headlight bulbs out for the newer high performance LED bulbs. Then you can get good lighting from both your headlights and the ROP light bar. Consider buying a low cost volt meter from say Walmart or Ace hardware, to confirm 12V connections as you work on the install.

 

[Wagtail]

I cannot comment of your Kioti's set-up, however...

My 4105 has a pre-installed light 'jack' (bullet type, male/female) behind the seat, just above the PTO. It is pre-wired and fused to the light selector switch, 4th position.

I installed a lightbar underneath the ROPS, ran a 2-wire 'cable down to the jack (tie-wrapped along the ROPS), soldered male/female bullet ends on the wire (purchased from a local auto parts shop, along with the wire). All works well.

Ask your Dealership if a similar auxiliary jack is present. Mine showed me exactly where it was.

 

[JoelD]

If using LED I’d expect you’d have no issues splicing into your headlight wiring and of course you’ll need a ground.

LED’s have such low draw. Particularly compared to your headlights.

compare total wattage

Most important as noted no drilling rops ever.

Joel

 

[fishfrank]

If using LED I’d expect you’d have no issues splicing into your headlight wiring and of course you’ll need a ground.

LED’s have such low draw. Particularly compared to your headlights.

compare total wattage

Most important as noted no drilling rops ever.

Joel

This is what I was thinking as well. I have seen other posts about wiring a lightbar and wondered why you cant just disconnect the headlights and tap into that. I have a grill guard on the front that ,between it and the FEL, makes the stock headlights useless.

 

[PEJ5]

Is it possible to add a light bar to the ROPS and tie into the headlight wiring using the factory switch to operate them? I would leave the factory headlights unplugged since they are pretty much useless to me. I’m dumb on electrical things. It’s a DK40SE

I found an unused 3 pin connector in a cable harness running across the back above the top link. It had a ground, 12v always on, 12v switched (on when running). I purchased a switch that fit in a blank position beside the seat and wired in with a fuse holder. I made a bracket for the light, but others have used strong magnets attached under the ROPS cross bar.
View attachment 669628

 

[jonathanstarr]

It's always best to instal a lighting relay and switch the control line to the relay rather than the +v wire. Be sure to put a fuse or breaker in the +v wire near the battery. Many lightbars come with a relay, switch and wire harness ready to go, though you will probably need the wire to the ROPS to be extended.
I have a 32" dual row lightbar from Caliraisedled on my pickup behind the lower grill that puts out a lot of light and is a great deal for the price. Mine uses 60 Osram LEDs, so it draws 300 watts, which is 3 times what a pair of headlights burn, and probably 10 times the light output. It's harsh light, cold and bluish, and probably more lumens than I would want on the tractor where you're not looking to the far distance. There are warmer ones out there, with some or all of the LEDs having an amber lens. You can buy 14" or 22" ones, and Caliraised has a single row amber 150 watt one that looks about right to me for a working light. Get a flood or combo rather than a spot beam light,

 

[fishfrank]

Great info. I appreciate all the advise! Will just do it right and find one with harness and everything.

 

[dragoneggs]

This may be more involved than you want to tackle but this is what I did a while back. Added a relay, switches, and adhesively bond the lights to the ROPS. Seven years later... still going strong.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/299015-led-light-install-but-look.html?highlight=

Whatever you do pay particular attention to your electrical connections. Use waterproof heat shrink connectors such as these... it likely will save you lots of aggravation.

TICONN 25PCS Heat Shrink Wire Connectors, Waterproof Automotive Marine Electrical Terminals Kit, Crimp Connector Assortment, Ring Fork Hook Spade Butt Splices: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

 

[Wagtail]

If you are going to clamp anything to your ROPS I would include a 'rubber'-ish, anti-vibration gasket. It can be anything from a cut up old floor mat to a cut up old foam neoprene "koozie".

The light won't shake and it will lessen vibration damage to the light in the long term.

 

[fishfrank]

If you are going to clamp anything to your ROPS I would include a 'rubber'-ish, anti-vibration gasket. It can be anything from a cut up old floor mat to a cut up old foam neoprene "koozie".

The light won't shake and it will lessen vibration damage to the light in the long term.

Thats a good idea

 

[muzbomb]

I want to put lights on my ROPS or just tractor in general in a bad way but still trying to think where is best? For my ROPS in summer I park my tractor in my shed which to park in there I have to lower my ROPS down as roof is just a shade to short to keep it up but in winter I park in my heated garage and keep ROPS up all the time so to mount light bar on the ROPS at the top which is probably best for giving off most light ahead of you it has to be able to fold down with ROPS top in summer. What you guys got out there for pics or is best?

 

[dragoneggs]

I like mine under the ROPS because I have alot of branches to contend with. I'm tall and the lights cast just fine. Folding ROPS hasn't been an issue. I used protective split spiral wrap to help with wire routing.

 

[muzbomb]

I like mine under the ROPS because I have alot of branches to contend with. I'm tall and the lights cast just fine. Folding ROPS hasn't been an issue. I used protective split spiral wrap to help with wire routing.

View attachment 669945 View attachment 669946 View attachment 669947

Very nice work!! So the lights are they drilled and tapped into ROPS or how are they on to the ROPS?

 

[dragoneggs]

Very nice work!! So the lights are they drilled and tapped into ROPS or how are they on to the ROPS?

Nope, no drilling. The mounts are adhesively bonded using Click Bond fasteners. Here is the link to my project thread done back in 2013...

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/299015-led-light-install-but-look.html?highlight=

 

[JoelD]

I replaced my factory ROPS lights with LED’s, fraction of draw and multiple of light. No issues. And super easy.

 

[Peter 315]

I only use my light bar in the winter, On a summer night it draws ALL the bugs.............